pulling 289 from '57GH: pull with tranny or without?

[bsrosell]

Just about ready to pull the engine on our Golden Hawk. Factory Shop Manual is not set up to assume a full restoration (ie: EVERYTHING is coming out!). So, wonder if the Manual's guidance to disconnect converter housing from tranny first assumes you don't need the tranny out, so why bother? Can I get the tranny out with the engine, or is it going to be too back-end heavy to maneuver out of there? I could get the tranny off underneath the car, but if it will go without disassembling from the converter housing, a little less laying on my back getting chunks of dirt and undercoating in my hair And maybe don't need to disturb that front crossmember that supposedly had to be removed to get the transmission out?
From laying under there and looking at it 6" from my nose, appears that you'd have to take the tranny FIRST (if separated), as there is nothing to hold her up once you unbolt from the converter housing....
Anyway, wondering what the standard method is out there in Stude restoration-land. Thanks!

[63r2]

I personally think it is easier to pull the whole lot out as one. There should be no need to remove the crossmember that I'm aware of but I guess its optional.
It is heavy and if all the sheetmetal is on the car then you will need a hoist with good reach and capacity.
pb

[bsrosell]

thanks. I've got the cherry picker at the last hole, which is 1/2 ton. I thought I saw somewhere that the engine is 600 lbs? Even if that was without tranny, can't be a 1000 lbs total!!! The lift-bracket just reaches over the Intake Manifold, with the bumper-arms removed. So should be ok. Thanks again!

[bondobilly]

You pull everything out in one shot. You won't need to drop cross member, but do remove rear engine/tranny support which sits on cross member. Engine and tranny will go back in as one piece also. Lable the motor mount with an arrow pointing forward.don not ask why.

[bsrosell]

argh.. already pulled her Wednesday night (as a unit, came out slick!). But the motor mounts are laying on the floor. :-) So I'll ask 'why' does motor mount orientation matter? They look symmetrical to me, and will have to have rubber replaced. The rubber is COMPLETELY SHOT in all four mounts, looks like someone melted them with a torch they are so distorted on the tranny end of things...

You pull everything out in one shot. You won't need to drop cross member, but do remove rear engine/tranny support which sits on cross member. Engine and tranny will go back in as one piece also. Lable the motor mount with an arrow pointing forward.don not ask why.

[N8N]

The front "biscuit" motor mounts I believe have one stud longer than the other, but can't remember preferred orientation off the top of my head. Both stickshift and automatic rear mounts are slightly asymmetrical and you want to make sure that you reinstall them in the right orientation. IIRC the shop manual has a pretty good picture showing the correct orientation of the rear mounts. Also make sure that you have the spacer under the driver's side trans mount.

nate

[bondobilly]

In some copies of the 1956/57 Service manual the photo showing the rear engine mount was reversed, soembody flipped the print. MY wife discovered it after we were fighting for about 40 min under the car trying to get engine and tranny back in. Thais was aftershe got her hand caught between car and rear spring. What saved her hand was a ring on her finger.

[bsrosell]

I have the reprint version, combining '56 +the '57 addendum. Do you know if this one has the correct photo?? If not, would someone be willing to photograph and post the 'correct' orientation for future reference? THanks!
Since my engine has been removed before, at least twice to swap transmissions from the looks of it, I don't put any stock in where the mounts are now. Looks like the driveshaft pillow-block might have been in the wrong set of holes too, if THAT picture is correct in the manual...
Barry

[mbstude]

What saved her hand was a ring on her finger.

How about that, Bill. You finally did something right. <grin>

[1954khardtop]

Barry, The picture of the driveshaft support in the '56 shop manual (fig.2 page 3 of propeller shaft section) only shows one location. The text under fig.4, same section, explains which holes to use. They are different for sedans and coupes, left hand control or right hand control.