May help with percolating fuel

[Werdegast]

With todays fuel problems I have attempted to take the automotive high road as it were..........I wrapped the
fuel line from the fuel pump up to the carb with heat wrap tape......additionally I cut up a heat reflective wrap that was made for starter motors suffering from heat soak and wrapped the glass bowl filter housing.

Gentlemen, am I wasteing my time, or will this exercise cut down on fuel percolating on hot days?

[Tom Bredehoft]

I prefer the return fuel line concept. As long as the engine is running, the fuel in the line is fresh, not heated from slow use in the line. Yes, when the engine stops, the fuel stops circulating.

With the underhood temperature (in my '55) at least 80 degrees above ambient air temp, the alcohol in the fuel is liable to boil out on a warm day. I don't know what the boiling point of modern fuel is, but it can't be too much higher than that of alcohol.

A though about heat wrap tape....once it gets hot inside the fuel line, it stays that way longer, too.

Lets face it, the fuel we are using today is made to be fed into the injectors at high pressure, sure to keep it from 'percolating.' We're trying to run our dinosaurs on fumes.

[Werdegast]

The car has a fuel return line.

[maxpower1954]

Werdegast, I searched through your previous posts and tried to find out what kind of Studebaker you own, but I didn't see it. Avantis and Avanti-powered Hawks and Larks and the only Studebakers I know that came from the factory with a fuel return line. What do you have??? Russ Farris

[GEEMAC]

I believe gas start to vaporise at about 212 degrees from past experience.MAC

[Werdegast]

R-1 Studebaker

[Flashback]

Isolation not insulation is the answer. Isolators under the carb and in areas where the line is exposed to the
most heat, use heat shields, more reflective on the hot side.

[PACKERBACKER]

I agree with Flashback. I recored the radiator, knocked out the freeze plugs to scrape and flush the block, insulated the fuel lines and put in an electric fan but nothing really stopped a percolation problem in my 1964 R1 Avanti until I used a stack of alternating gaskets and plates to lift the carb up just enough away from the hot intake manifold. After doing all of these things I finally was able to get the car to run under 210 degrees. Recently I rebuilt the engine so I dropped in a Summit Racing aluminum radiator and then the car would run between 175 to 180 degrees on the freeway but would still run hot if I let it idle fairly long. I put the electric fan back in with a thermostat to regulate it and now it runs cool and I do not need the isolators anymore. You might be able to help keep the carburetor cool enough by blocking off the heat passage in the manifold under the carb.

[Werdegast]

And the removal of the 'heat-riser'

I agree with Flashback. I recored the radiator, knocked out the freeze plugs to scrape and flush the block, insulated the fuel lines and put in an electric fan but nothing really stopped a percolation problem in my 1964 R1 Avanti until I used a stack of alternating gaskets and plates to lift the carb up just enough away from the hot intake manifold. After doing all of these things I finally was able to get the car to run under 210 degrees. Recently I rebuilt the engine so I dropped in a Summit Racing aluminum radiator and then the car would run between 175 to 180 degrees on the freeway but would still run hot if I let it idle fairly long. I put the electric fan back in with a thermostat to regulate it and now it runs cool and I do not need the isolators anymore. You might be able to help keep the carburetor cool enough by blocking off the heat passage in the manifold under the carb.