50 Champion Part Car Value

[gearhead49]

Have a chance to buy the remains of a 50 Chamion 9G the owner used a Sawzall and cut the front part of the clip off to use for display on his business. He told me the car was from New Mexico which caught my attention. The rear fenders, trunk lid, doors, floors and trunk pan are rust free. I have a 51 Champion 10G a good ol Indiana Rustybaker that I bought to build a Ratrod or a driver. Was thinking of cutting out the floors trunk pan etc and using some of the other body parts to use on my 51. The question of the day is, are there any differences in the floors and body parts etc between the 50 9G and 51 10G??? I know the suspension is different. What's usually the going rate for a parts car????? or what have you paid for a parts car.
THANKS
Gearhead

[gearhead49]

Thought I would add some pics since everyone love them.
Any advise???????

[1950 Champion RegalDeluxe]

I have no idea in regards to what the going rate is for a parts car since the usual rate often has more to do with location and situation than anything else.
I suppose I wouls start by telling the man that you would like the rest of the car for one of your projects.
If the rest of the car is in his way, he may act with generosity and give it to you.
He may want to barter it or sell it.
It should be considered an indicator that he does not want to sell it if he throws a price at you that is above the current scrap value.
The car is already missing it's most popular feature and needs a new front clip, along with windows and much of the interior.

[wolfie]

Its not worth much being cut in half as it is. Also I have been waiting on the experts to weigh in and answer your questions as to the exact parts that will interchange with your 51 but very little will. I dont think any of the body panels do, not sure about the floor pans. Its a shame the seller chose such a solid car to cut in half. There were better examples for what he wanted and save the better body for someone to use. Steve

[Mike Sal]

Try an offer of 300 bucks. If the rear fenders & trunk are indeed rust free, they alone are worth that. All of the body parts you'd be interested in are interchangeable. The differences (I'm going from memory here....so maybe others will point out my mistakes or omisions):

Rear fenders.....the '50 will have a elongated hole in the tail light mounting area while the '51 doesn't....you might have to use '50 taillight buckets.
Trunk Lid.....the holes for the chrome bezel & latch mechanizm are in different spots. If the lower lip isn't rusty, you can either patch & re-drill holes, or use the '50 bezel & latch.
Steering Column.....several small differences between 50 & 51 if I remember right....I just don't remember exactly what.
Floors....will be identical to your car.

Of course the front & rear glass is different, but you knew that. It's a shame he cut those front fenders. The rear half of the front fenders are the same, so you'll be able to cut patch pieces out of them.

If the frame is solid, you'll be able to sell it to someone in the club when your done.
Mike Sal

[Lothar]

Is that rear bumper decent (straight and unpitted chrome)? If so, there's $100-$150, and it can be used as a front bumper, too. If the taillight bezels aren't seriously pitted, they're easily worth $50 each, and the glass is $25-$30 each. You'd have more labor wrapped up in removing the sheetmetal than you'd ever get back out of it, but if you need those parts and they're sound, they're worth something. Functioning driver's window regulators are worth $75-100 (they are interchangeable between any 1947-52 car, regardless of body style, I think). Maybe another $50 in miscellaneous bits and pieces. If there's a climatizer, the core and other parts are worth $25-50 if repairable. So, yeah, there's easily $250-300 of potential parts value.

[gearhead49]

Thanks for the replies so far.
I was almost sick to my stomach when I first saw the car, but stuff happens.

[gearhead49]

The owner wants $400.00 delivered to my house 8 miles away.

[Chris_Dresbach]

I was almost sick to my stomach when I first saw the car

I second that

[Mike Sal]

Was that $400 before or after your offer? The fact he's willing to deliver it (even thou it's only just down the road) is worth something, especially as hot as it's been lately.

BTW, how many miles is showing on it? Any sign the engine's ever been apart (dents & scratches on the firewall....missing bolts, etc) (i can't really tell if the motor is still present or not in the photo's)?
Mike Sal

[whacker]

Offer him 200 cash and wave it under his nose. I bet you can get it for 250.

[gearhead49]

Was that $400 before or after your offer? The fact he's willing to deliver it (even thou it's only just down the road) is worth something, especially as hot as it's been lately.

BTW, how many miles is showing on it? Any sign the engine's ever been apart (dents & scratches on the firewall....missing bolts, etc) (i can't really tell if the motor is still present or not in the photo's)?
Mike Sal

The 400 was his inital price, told him I'd kick it around. He told me he needs to get it out of the storage area soon. Will make a ridiculos offer.
The odometer shows a bit over 77,000. The motor, trans, etc is all there. The motor turns by hand. Spark plugs are loose in the head. He claims he had it firing at one time. Motor seems original, complete from front to back and has never been apart. he didn't know too much history on it. Nice chrome rear bumper, rust free trunk lid and trunk pan, doors, rear fenders and floors. Someone busted all the glass.

I believe everything should fit my 51. The real ringer is the boss, warden, aka the wife. she hates things setting around too long and in sight. Been getting pressure to sell my 1968 Century Cheetah inboard that has not been in the water since 2005. Not as energetic as I once was