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**StudeRich** · 07-23-2010, 10:04 PM

Unless played with, they're all 289's, the serial Number STAMPED into the machined flat pad, left of the Oil filler pipe will start with a "P" for President. The cupped type pistons and the long stroke crankshaft are the ONLY differences between the 289 and the 259 used in '61 Larks.

You can pull a spark plug and feel or see the bowl in the piston top, when one is at TDC to verify that it STILL is correct per it's Serial Number.

**Skip Lackie** · 07-24-2010, 03:54 AM

V8 engine number ID here:

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http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/V8EngineID.asp

**okc63avanti** · 07-24-2010, 05:03 AM

Originally posted by woodysrods View Post

Although I have always suggested that SB chev and modern trans & suspension should be the substituted if you plan to drive your Stude.

Brian, I am currently having a frame off restoration/modification done on my Avanti. I respecfully disagree with the SBC motor and modern trans & suspension comments for a driver. A Studebaker V8 is extremely well built and has a large amount of metal between the cylinder wall and the the water jackets. They may be a little more expensive to have rebuilt but all the parts are readibly available from our wonderful Stude vendors. The Stude V8 could easily be bored out multiple times over and if the block you have has never been rebuilt it is doubtful over your lifetime you would use up the block during rebuilds. As to the modern trans one can again order adapters and kits to put a Chevy automatic with OD behind a Stude engine or in the case of my Avanti, I am putting a Tremec TKO 5 speed behind my engine. The Studebaker suspension is an older design but again properly restored with new bushings, king pins, steering components will last several years. Attempts to change the Stude suspension to rack & pinion steering have been done by several on this forum but if not done correctly can be worst than the factory setup due to steering geometry. If you want a driver, rebuild the Stude engine, swap to a modern trans if you want to and completely rebuild the Stude suspension.

I do agree with your comments though if your car is pretty far gone (bad block, rusted through frame, body, etc.) then by all means save your car and go the route with SBC and front frame clip, etc.

**Chantony** · 07-24-2010, 05:08 AM

Hi Brian.
Should be as Rich says,a 289.Unless it was an export imported back from overseas,but almost unheard of.I'd keep the Stude motor if possible as nothing sounds nicer,not even a worked Chev.
The Stude's firing order gives it that wonderful and unique sound and the motors have good power as well.

**63t-cab** · 07-24-2010, 06:10 AM

What does VH stand for on a late 259,really it's the H I wonder about.I did'nt see that in the ID chart.

**Skip Lackie** · 07-24-2010, 06:35 AM

Originally posted by 63t-cab View Post

What does VH stand for on a late 259,really it's the H I wonder about.I did'nt see that in the ID chart.

Go down to the section entitled "1964 V8 engine numbering".

**woodysrods** · 07-24-2010, 08:13 AM

Originally posted by okc63avanti View Post

Brian, I am currently having a frame off restoration/modification done on my Avanti. I respecfully disagree with the SBC motor and modern trans & suspension comments for a driver. A Studebaker V8 is extremely well built and has a large amount of metal between the cylinder wall and the the water jackets. They may be a little more expensive to have rebuilt but all the parts are readibly available from our wonderful Stude vendors. The Stude V8 could easily be bored out multiple times over and if the block you have has never been rebuilt it is doubtful over your lifetime you would use up the block during rebuilds. As to the modern trans one can again order adapters and kits to put a Chevy automatic with OD behind a Stude engine or in the case of my Avanti, I am putting a Tremec TKO 5 speed behind my engine. The Studebaker suspension is an older design but again properly restored with new bushings, king pins, steering components will last several years. Attempts to change the Stude suspension to rack & pinion steering have been done by several on this forum but if not done correctly can be worst than the factory setup due to steering geometry. If you want a driver, rebuild the Stude engine, swap to a modern trans if you want to and completely rebuild the Stude suspension.

I do agree with your comments though if your car is pretty far gone (bad block, rusted through frame, body, etc.) then by all means save your car and go the route with SBC and front frame clip, etc.

Thanks for your comments John. I have my new 61 home now and am just going out to blow it off and wash it after 33 years of sitting in a shed. It looks like I will keep her stock. But! my other 56 Power Hawk (Completely rust free 29,000 miles car inside stored for last 49 years) came without a motor (removed in 1961). It is getting a ZZ4 Crate Motor, 6 spd trans, 9"Ford rear, and 86 Corvette front suspension.
PS the new 61 Hawk will get a Turner Brake upgrade.
Good Roads
Brian

**woodysrods** · 07-24-2010, 08:18 AM

Pictures of my motor.

**studegary** · 07-24-2010, 08:57 AM

There were only 3929 1961 Hawks. The domestic cars all had a 289. Exports could be a 259 (few) or six (266 or 589, depending on "reference" source). The stamped engine number will tell you what the engine started as.

**Chucks Stude** · 07-24-2010, 09:06 AM

Just a question, what is that sticking out of spark plug hole no. 3 ?

**Warren Webb** · 07-24-2010, 10:21 AM

Looks very original Woody. You may or may not have to remove the oil filter assy to see the engine number. I too was wondering the same thing as Chuck as to what that wire is between the #1 &3 spark plugs. You already are going to have a great car with your plans on the Power Hawk, so why not keep this one original? Other than some minor details it looks unmolested and would be a credit not only to you, but all of us too! Lets see more pictures too!

**sweetolbob** · 07-24-2010, 11:09 AM

Posted by Chucks stude
Just a question, what is that sticking out of spark plug hole no. 3

My money is on a engine oil heater.

JMSWAG

Bob

**StudeRich** · 07-24-2010, 11:18 AM

ODD Carb. repainted Valve Covers?

That is one strange looking Carb. it's got on there! I have never seen a Dashpot mounted on the RIGHT side of the Carb. the Stude. Carbs all have the throttle linkage on the left so that is where the dashpot would go. I see the fuel line size is adapted, so it must be some kind of Brand X, maybe a very disposable GM Rochester!

Also if it's a '61 Engine, the valve covers and Oil Cap have been painted '62-'64 Yellow, they were Red. I thought I saw a little Red paint where the yellow chipped off. Maybe it would be a good idea to look up the Serial Number in the Engine Number Listing to I.D. the year as Skip recommended. You didn't say what Number you have!
The "wire" from the left Head is a Head Bolt, Block (Head) Heater! common in these "colder" climates, didn't ever see those in So. Cal !!