To heat or not to heat: ( is/was stuck/frozen T-O brg and clutch disc )

[jackb]

OK...to sum up my issues: Throw-out bearing and clutch disc are both frozen to the input collar/shaft in my 63' V8.
I now have the drive train sitting on the floor on stands. I can see through the inspection hole: the T-O bearing, the pressure plate and the splined area of the disc. I think I can get a flame through that round hole and heat up the disc splines. Is there any reason not to try this approach ?? It certainly sounds better than cutting a hole through the b-hsg or attempting to access the P-plate screws through the starter opening.

I plan to separate the b-hsg from the block with spacers in 4-5 perimeter locations to put a good, even stress on the block/bellhousing....Shouldn't it simply "POP" like a rear hub w/ correct puller ????

[N8N]

OK...to sum up my issues: Throw-out bearing and clutch disc are both frozen to the input collar/shaft in my 63' V8.
I now have the drive train sitting on the floor on stands. I can see through the inspection hole: the T-O bearing, the pressure plate and the splined area of the disc. I think I can get a flame through that round hole and heat up the disc splines. Is there any reason not to try this approach ?? It certainly sounds better than cutting a hole through the b-hsg or attempting to access the P-plate screws through the starter opening.

I plan to separate the b-hsg from the block with spacers in 4-5 perimeter locations to put a good, even stress on the block/bellhousing....Shouldn't it simply "POP" like a rear hub w/ correct puller ????

Theoretically, yes. Maybe use some old chisels you don't care about too much? don't shove 'em in under any ears though, they will snap off. Don't drive 'em too hard, either, a chisel is harder than cast iron.

I don't actually know if this will work or not. I'm thinking you'll also be fighting the pressure plate before you actually get serious pressure on the clutch disc. I'm just thinking out loud (as out loud as you can get with a keyboard.)

nate

[studegary]

I'm just thinking out loud (as out loud as you can get with a keyboard.)

nate

Then you would be using all cap's. <G>

[Mike Sal]

Sounds like a fire waiting to happen to me. Also, you'll want to be careful on spacers on the bellhousing. Cast iron doesn't like tensile stress at all.

How rusty do things look in there? Will the T.O. not move at all?
Mike Sal

[wolfie]

Sounds like a fire waiting to happen to me.

Mike Sal

What He said. Burning asbestos (clutch lining) gets HOT! Better to fight the bolts through the starter hole. Steve

[jackb]

T-O will not move at all. Believe it or not...they don't look too rusty at all...I believe I can get a gas nozzle inside and close to the disc splines. ASide from some leaky rear main seal oil...what would start a fire...? Asbestos ?

[Tom Bredehoft]

Heat is not a good idea. Period.

Disconnect the 6 screws holding the pressure plate on, soak the T O splines with PR Blaster and rap it toward the tranny with a punch. This should shock it loose.

[dpson]

Jack,
I would suggest trying to pry the transmission away from the bellhousing, before applying the torch. Replace the upper two transmission bolts with 4 inch guide pins (bolts with the heads cut off) then remove the lower two bolts. Drive wedges (screw drivers, etc.) between the transmission and bellhousing to pry it apart. Eventually you should start to get enough room between the two to get a crowbar or similar device in there to pry them apart. Take your time and try to work the prybar around to different locations to even out the pressure. I believe the clutch disc is rusted to the transmission input shaft and enough pressure should free it up.

[Chipmaker]

On the heat question, if you exceed about 350 degrees you will aneal?(make soft)the parts inside the bh.Thay will not last long if reused.Think trans,imput shaft and all steel clutch parts.

[jackb]

...Update: I will be soaking the tranny splines with penetrant for the next few days. I can easily squirt on the disc section there and hope after time and with some pressure it will loosen. I do plan on wedging around the b-hsg and then rapping on the disc center with a long punch in hopes of it breaking loose.....it will. Once off, I will squirt and tap on T-O brg and get that off.....I now have a better look (from ) above, not on my back) at the starter opening and the access to the P-plate screws....I think I can get to them if all else fails......I will report back ...

[gordr]

I second Dan Peterson's approach. At this point, it's pretty safe to consider the T/O bearing and clutch disc as expendable.