Where did these double valve springs come from?

[61Lark]

These heads came with a rebuilt engine that I got a few years ago. The spring pad has been enlarged to allow the bigger springs to fit. Other than the springs it doesn't look like anything else major was done to the heads, they still have the stock size valves and combustion chambers.

I pulled the cam out of the engine and a Cal Cams stamp is barely visible on the distributor end. The cam has the same color orange paint as the valves but also has a white stripe in addition.

One of the valves is missing the retainer and keepers. Has anyone seen this set up before or know where to get a replacement keeper?

Thanks
Nick

[N8N]

I think SBC springs are pretty close to Stude springs... might have to machine the pockets a little bigger, and shim underneath some, to make them work right with stock Stude valves. So if I were a betting man I'd guess that that's what you have and you could probably just dial up Summit and order a whole set of keepers and retainers. If you can, sit down with a catalog and some calipers and just match up to the diameter of your springs.

nate

[61Lark]

I think I found them in the Summit catalog. Lunati makes them in steel, which I'd prefer to the aluminum ones on the heads now. Thanks for the help.

Nick

[N8N]

you could always go for titanium, as well, you know. For the ultra-high-RPM Stude engine

nate

[Mike Van Veghten]

Small block Chevy springs aren't going to fit without about a .250" thick spacer ! So...NO they aren't small Chevy springs...

You'll have to look at the different manufacturers and have the "free length" of the Stude spring on hand when you do, to compare to buy new springs.

I need to do this also, since I have three sets of heads I am working on right now. The two spring idea might be a little overkill for a daily driver, but for a racer or one that gets wrung out once in a while, be prepaired to add some sort of additional anti-skuff additive to the oil because of the higher "over the nose" pressure.

As for the aluminum retainers on the street....good ones can work...just be perpaired to find alum. bits in your oil. The springs WILL sluff off bits of retainer and it'll end up in the oil. Steel IS the better choise for the street.

I'll be looking into the conical springs shortly, reasons -
1. Lighter spring, (equals better valve control)
2. Better overall spring control for a single spring
3. Lighter retianer

Mike

P.s. - I like your Lark. I've got a 59 and a 60 myself. Both 2dr. wagons.

[PackardV8]

Have you measured your valve length? More than one performance Stude V8 is using Chevy valves as well as springs. Most Chevy V8 valves are in the 4.9" range and Stude valves are 5.170".

thnx, jack vines

[61Lark]

Have you measured your valve length? More than one performance Stude V8 is using Chevy valves as well as springs. Most Chevy V8 valves are in the 4.9" range and Stude valves are 5.170".

thnx, jack vines

The valve height is 5.165" and the outer spring measures 2.348" high. The stock spring that I have on hand measures 2.390" high.

This engine is going in a 60 Lark that won't be a daily driver. Thanks for the advice on the additive.

I posted this on the Racing Studebakers site as well.

http://racingstudebakers.com/foo/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2051&p=21413#p21413

Nick

[hotrodstude]

small block ford maybe