Avanti power steering, hoses, control valve, power piston.

[long1776]

It was with some hesitation I started restoring the power steering, but thanks to all that have contributed with info and photos. It took me somewhat less than 6 hours changing hoses, and overhauling the control valve assy and the power piston. This is how I did it.

1. car on hoist remove LF wheel.
2. remove Pitman arm with tool W 142 but used a shorter bolt, approx 2", otherwise you hit the freeze plug.
3. removed steering reach rod from bellcrank.
4. removed hoses from power piston, put a tag on the old hose so you know which one goes upper/ lower on the piston. removed hoses from power sttering reservoir and pump.
5. unfasten clips holding hoses to frame, but let them stay in place on hoses.
6. let the control valve assy with all hoses in place slide downwards to the floor. It's handy to have a helper on a ladder guiding the hoses downwards while they descend.
7. remove power piston from bellcrank, tool W80557.
8. remove power piston from bracket on frame.
9. remove hoses from control valve assy, and lay them out on a clean floor.
10. overhauled the power piston and the control valve assy.
11. install all four hoses on the control valve assy.
12. connect steering reach rod to bellcrank, dustboot DOR 13561, while some one holds the control valve assy so it won't fall to the floor.
13. reinstall power piston to bellcrank and to frame.
14. reinstall both hoses to power piston.
15. transfer clips from old hoses and install on frame.
16 guide two remaining hoses upwards and connect to reservoir and pump.

Start the engine, with wheels touching the ground, turn left and right, refill Dexron III, start engine, turn left and right. No more air to bleed.

All in all, 6 hours, all parts came from SI and out of 8 fittings on the hoses I only had to bend, slightly, one fitting. And it really pays off to remove it all.

[studefan]

Good summary. I am just starting this job. I removed the power piston (ram). Took the snap ring out then the copper star washer. I can't get the rest out. How did you remove the seals, etc?

Also, I am rebuilding the control valve in place. Took all the internals out last night. Any tricks in putting the two seals back in place? Did you slide the inner most seal onto the spool shaft first? Also, someone said to use lithium grease on the seals when reassembling the pieces. Any thoughts about this.

Thanks.

[long1776]

Power piston; it was a little tricky but I drilled a small hole in the seal/ bushing after the star scraper, 2 mm dia,
(1/12"). Inserted a pointed screw, turned and had the seal climb up on the screw. The rest were no problem.
The two seals in the control valve were quite easy, just make sure you get the lip facing the right way. It's explained in the instruction for the kit. We used some kind of "Rubber grease" for the seals, and I think a toothpick might be to weak. Here we used an oldfashion match, from a box and not the tiny ones from a cover.

[studefan]

Success with the first seal after the scraper with your drill and screw method. Thanks.

Now I can't get the next white plastic piece out. I pried on it a bit but can't get it out. Does this piece get reused or can I dig into it to get it out?

I have a new seal kit on hand. There looks to be a blue plastic piece that could possibly replace this but I am not sure. Is the blue piece a replacement for the white piece? Can I destroy that white one in an attempt to get it out?

Thanks for stepping me through this.

[long1776]

The blue seal, the largest of them all, replaces the white one and here we used a sharp object, like a small slot screwdriver, hacking one side of the white seal 'til it split in two pieces.

[studefan]

Great. I'll start on that this morning. Hoping to finish this project today.

[ROADRACELARK]

Many years back an old genuine Studebaker dealership mechanic told me the easy way to replace those seals without removing the ram from the car. First, remove the lock ring, then wrap a shop rag around the shaft at the cylinder, crank the engine, turn the steering wheel full lock to the right and "tug" on the wheel one time. Shut off the engine. The seal and everything on top of it will be out of the cylinder. Only a small amount of fluid was lost when I did it. Disconnect the ram shaft from the bell crank, remove the end, slide off the old parts and install the new ones. The last one I did took about 1/2 hour. Hope this is helpful.

Dan Miller
Auburn, GA

[Milvanti]

Getting at the power steering hose nuts

It was with some hesitation I started restoring the power steering, but thanks to all that have contributed with info and photos. It took me somewhat less than 6 hours changing hoses, and overhauling the control valve assy and the power piston. This is how I did it.

1. car on hoist remove LF wheel.
2. remove Pitman arm with tool W 142 but used a shorter bolt, approx 2", otherwise you hit the freeze plug.
3. removed steering reach rod from bellcrank.
4. removed hoses from power piston, put a tag on the old hose so you know which one goes upper/ lower on the piston. removed hoses from power sttering reservoir and pump.
5. unfasten clips holding hoses to frame, but let them stay in place on hoses.
6. let the control valve assy with all hoses in place slide downwards to the floor. It's handy to have a helper on a ladder guiding the hoses downwards while they descend.
7. remove power piston from bellcrank, tool W80557.
8. remove power piston from bracket on frame.
9. remove hoses from control valve assy, and lay them out on a clean floor.
10. overhauled the power piston and the control valve assy.
11. install all four hoses on the control valve assy.
12. connect steering reach rod to bellcrank, dustboot DOR 13561, while some one holds the control valve assy so it won't fall to the floor.
13. reinstall power piston to bellcrank and to frame.
14. reinstall both hoses to power piston.
15. transfer clips from old hoses and install on frame.
16 guide two remaining hoses upwards and connect to reservoir and pump.

Start the engine, with wheels touching the ground, turn left and right, refill Dexron III, start engine, turn left and right. No more air to bleed.

All in all, 6 hours, all parts came from SI and out of 8 fittings on the hoses I only had to bend, slightly, one fitting. And it really pays off to remove it all.

I am in awe of you right now!
I'm trying just to remove the power steering hoses from the ram and the control valve. I have the car up on jacks about 18" off floor. I can't even seem to fit the line wrench over the nut at the ram to loosen it. What special tool or (more likely) know-how am I missing?

Thanks for any pointers you can provide!

[sweetolbob]

I just did mine yesterday. Get yourself a set of crowfoot wrenches and a set of 3/8" extensions. You'll need 7/16-1/2 and 5/8" ones. HF has a set for under $10.

You'll find a lot of uses for them.

Be sure you also have a set of flare wrenches.

Bob

[brian6373]

Use petroleum Jelly to lube O-rings and other internal parts for assembly. It will mix with the ATF.

Brian

[bezhawk]

If you are replacing the hoses, and you don't have a line wrench, cut the hose near the nut and slip a box wrench or socket over the nut to remove.