R3 Head Gaskets

[3x2stude]

I am building a 289 and have the head modifications underway. I have installed R3 valves in a set of 570 heads. I had the machine shop hog out the bowls based on the valve size and the NOS R3 head gasket I have. I plan to notch the block.

Now after the engine is assembled and fired what do I do if I need to disassemble the head from the motor? Will the gasket survive or will I need to find another set of R3 gaskets? A stock set of thin gaskets seems to small and would overhang the cylinder walls a bit in the notch. What are my options down the road?

Jon Kammer
3x2stude

[starliner62]

Did you bore tis engine to R-3 specs? I have put many sets of R-3 valves in 570 heads on 289 blocks and there was no need to notch the block unless the bore was standard.

[3x2stude]

To notch or not to notch is not the question! Can you re-use the copper R3 head gaskets? If not is there an alternative? The heads are bowled out to match the R3 gaskets, so I am stuck with that. I have not had the block bored yet but it will need it. One cylinder is scored bad so it may need 060 over. I plan on a sonic check before the overbore.

New question, if I go 060 over with full size R3 valves is "shrowding" not an issue?

[PackardV8]

Yes, if the combustion chamber is enlarged past the cylinder bore, a notch in the top of cylinder bore always helps - a little.

No, sonic testing usually isn't needed. Unless there is some serious rusting inside the water jackets, the Stude block will always be safe with a .060" overbore.

What intake manifold will this engine be using? What porting has been done on the intake manifold and the head ports?

thnx, jack vines

[Mike Van Veghten]

As might be noticed if you look....ALL Stude heads hang over the stock dia. bore.
Now...as you over bore, this get's better. At .060"...you still "should" notch the bore on the intake side.

NOT for valve clearance, but for better air/fuel flow. If the chambers were modified somewhat properly, an R3 gasket is NOT required. But if the chamber was modified to more closly match the R3 chamber (not required or desired), then the R3 gasket IS required.
The reason the chamber should be notched or more properly, just ground with about a 45 degree angle from the outer edge of the chamber wall..in...JUST to match the chamber shape only. Remember don't go below the top ring location...! The intake side should be done, the exhaust side is up to the builder.

As for removing the head and replacing it (why??)...yes, a new gasket should be used. While you MAY get away from leaks...it'll be a lucky stroke that it happens.

Mike

Forgot, if the chambers are worked correctly without reworking the actual chamber wall radius, there isn't that much shroulding. And at worst...it isn't any worse thAn many of the current "hot rod" heads on the market for the Chevy, Chrys., Ford crowd.
Take a look here - http://public.fotki.com/-Mike-/
The Stude cylinder head porting folder...or any of the three. Double click to enlarge.

[bezhawk]

Copper can be annealed back to dead soft fairly easily. Take an acetalene torch turn the oxygen off and "soot" the copper evenly black. Then add the oxygen to a rosebud tip and evenly heat just enough to burn off the soot. you dont want to get it too hot and risk melting. It will be a purple-ish color when all done . Then scratch it up with a red scotch-brite and use 3 coats of permatex copper spray per side. Follow torque pattern in increments 3 times to the final torque.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Stock R3 gaskets aren't copper...!

Mike

[bezhawk]

Mabey not stock?

Can you re-use the copper R3 head gaskets? If not is there an alternative? The heads are bowled out to match the R3 gaskets, so I am stuck

I didn't reply that they were stock, just answering his question of what he had.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Sorry bez -

I didn't read 3x2's second post. He says the copper gasket is stock...! Hmmm...
Anyway...strange he hasn't commented back on any of the posts..?

Mike