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Guido
09-07-2008, 08:40 PM
In the absence of being able to find a suitable trailer to bring my horse drawn vehicles to Lancaster, I am relegated to using my 20 year old Hudson car trailer. Since I bought my rollback in 1999 the trailer has seen limited use, in fact it has been sitting in the same spot with a grain drill on it for several years.

The paint is faded and the floor is shot. I went to my property today and hooked it up to bring it home. Brought it up the lane and stopped to close the gate and took off. I noticed it was pulling hard as I came onto the road and after about 20 feet on the hard surface road I heard a loud squeal. I looked back and the brakes on the back axle were locked up. #@*%$! I was able to back up and get off the road.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/guidosalvage/School2008016.jpg

The simplest solution was to unplug the trailer and not have any trailer brakes on the ride back. I stopped at Lowe's and bought new lumber for the bed as well as a 4" foam roller and a quart of blue Tremclad for the frame. As you can see, there is significant rot.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/guidosalvage/School2008021.jpg

As rotted as the wood was, I thought I could just rip it off. This proved to be more difficult, so I used a circular saw to rip across the boards in a couple of spots which made it much easier.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/guidosalvage/School2008022.jpg

I hesitated to cut the board on the far side as I had replaced it a half dozen years ago and thought it might have some life left in it. The deck is held down with 3" Torx head screws, all of which are rusty and refuse to come out (and easily wring off). I used a long crowbar and block of wood to pull the decking through the screw heads. In the end I ended up cutting the last board and trashing it as well. This is my scrap pile after finishing.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/guidosalvage/School2008027.jpg

Here we are down to the bare frame.

http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o175/guidosalvage/School2008028.jpg

As you can see, I have work to do on the screws. Using vice grips, I was able to get out all but 6 on each crossmember before darkness fell. I will get the others out tomorrow and then start the clean up up the frame. I will also need to make a template for each of the three crossmembers showing the holes for the screws as they are tapped in a random fashion.

Hopefully I will have it put back together by Saturday and be ready to roll on Sunday.


http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/63/663/9/36/86/2567936860097493054TXiheL_th.jpgGuido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful" and real Studebaker horsepower lives

See pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/GuidoSalvage

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

BobGlasscock
09-07-2008, 09:29 PM
Depending on your attitude about templates, lay your 2x6's across the frame on top of the screws and hit 'em or step on them to mark the bottom side with the screw heads. Then drill a guide hole through the lumber and you're ready to go. Just don't mix up the boards. Numbers are helpful.



'50 Champion, 1 family owner
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg316/studebakerbob/SDC%20avatar/Studebakerstuff019.jpghttp://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg316/studebakerbob/SDC%20avatar/Studebakerstuff018.jpg

studegary
09-07-2008, 10:38 PM
Probably not the correct way to do it, but I think that I would have just screwed down 5/8 exterior plywood on top of the original bed. I believe that it would have been strong enough and have given a good surface for your buggies.
Spend your time getting the running gear, including brakes, up to snuff.
At this point, I just wish you luck and will see you in PA.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

Guido
09-08-2008, 06:34 AM
Gary,

That would have worked to get me to Lancaster, but I have used the trailer to haul tractors and my small crawlers. The wood was less than $150 and I would like to do it once and have it right.

Gary

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/63/663/9/36/86/2567936860097493054TXiheL_th.jpgGuido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful" and real Studebaker horsepower lives

See pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/GuidoSalvage

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

Avantidon
09-08-2008, 07:28 AM
Gary, I sympathise with all that you are going through to get all of your horse drawns to Lancaster and I personally really appreciate it. We look forward to having you and your vehicles here and participating in this meet.

Daan
09-08-2008, 06:53 PM
Could you use that "Engineered Lumber" plastic wood stuff so it doesn't rot (and maybe weigh less), or is it not strong enough to use on a trailer? A neighbor made their deck out of that stuff, and it still looks new years later.

http://s69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/DansStudes/

Guido
09-08-2008, 07:29 PM
I do not think the resin "lumber" is engineered to carry such a load. I have hauled a F-600 truck and numerous tractors and crawler loaders/dozers on this trailer in the past 20 years. While it now rarely sees service as I own a rollback and I took the IH flatbed I pulled it with off the road, I want it to be able to haul 4 tons.

Spent this evening working on the rest of the screws. Tow cam out, the rest either wrung off or I cut off with the grinder. I was able to drill out 11 of the screws, 14 left to go and then I need to retap and clean the threads. After that, clean up the rust, paint and deck it over.

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/63/663/9/36/86/2567936860097493054TXiheL_th.jpgGuido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful" and real Studebaker horsepower lives

See pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/GuidoSalvage

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.