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Gallivan
07-26-2006, 09:01 AM
I hope I get this right!

I just picked up a barn find 57 Golden Hawk (I didn't find it), my first Stude, and also my first major restoration project. I've been going through all the posts here which have been very helpful.

I've decided to attack the floors and rocker panels first (one side at a time). I got the mini floor patch from CE- the rust is all up at the front. When I opened up the rockers, I discovered that the inner rockers are also bad- I will have to remove the entire treadplate to get at them. Now my question- how much of the treadplate is covered by the aluminum, or whatever, trim piece? How close does it come to front and back door pillars? Does it glue on? Mine was missing and I don't see any screw holes.

Another question- I decided to fire up the engine (the previous owner said he fired it up and it sounded great). Well, the dist. was loose, the rotor was missing and the ground wires were diconnected. The wiring diagram shows one ground going to the coil and one going to ground- is that right? When I hook up one wire to ground it doesn't work, so I left it off. I got the balancer in the IGN setting and the rotor pointed to #1 and it fired, but wouldn't stay running when I let off the remote starter. When I opened the dist. cap the rotor was off 180 deg.! I thought maybe a broken timing chain, but I understand there is no chain. The gear on the dist. seems solid, although the long shaft below the gear is loose.
Sorry this is so long, but any advise?
Thanks-
(New Member) Gallivan

57 Golden Hawk

Alan
07-26-2006, 10:39 AM
Gal, It sounds like you need to check the ballast resistor. And the ballancer goes around twice, so that it hits the TDC mark when it fires 1 and 6. The dist. grounds inside with a flat braided cable and the - wire from the coil goes to the dist. not to ground.

Roscomacaw
07-26-2006, 11:30 AM
The sill plates run right to the ends and are held on with several small oval head screws. The 57 sill plates are about 3 inches wide, so they cover alot from the edge of the sills (which are actually the upper edge of the rocker panels and part of the channel on them that serves as a seat for the lower door weatherstrip.

Your distributor should have only one wire coming out of it. That wire goes to the "-" terminal on the coil. The "+" terminal of the coil should go to the ballast resistor (the same end of the resistor that has this wire attached should also have a black&green wire that goes over to the "I" terminal of the strarter solenoid) and the other side of the resistor goes to the ign. switch.
Being a Golden Hawk, there should be a yellowish module between the top of the distributor and it's cap. This module would have a short cable coming out of it with a plug on the end. That plug engages a socket from the are of the firewall and provides a signal to the tachometer. Of course, it may well be missing, in which case, the cap would sit right on the distributor.;)

As Alan said, if it only fires when your cranking, you'd need to investigate the resistor to see that it's good and also to see that there's power to it when the ign sw. is turned on.

Does your Hawk still have it's supercharger and all the associated parts???[:I] Either way, congratulations on an exciting barn find. Where are you located, geographically?

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Gallivan
07-26-2006, 12:29 PM
A-HA!!!

I think you solved my problem! All the wires were disconnected from the ballast resistor when I got it and I didn't hook them all up- must have left the one to the ignition switch off.

The guy I bought it from said that the supercharger was missing when he got it and another distributor was in the car, :D:D:Dso he put in a Delco-Remy that he said was for a supercharged car. It doesn't have the module installed- can I or should I add this, or just find the correct distributor?

The mounting bracket and air box and pulley are in place, he gave me a box full of supercharger parts that he said was a complete core, so when I reach that stage I will send it off to be rebuilt.

I'm near Denver- this Hawk was listed on Ebay with 3 others, but this one didn't sell. He listed it in the paper so we made a deal.
I hope I don't run out of enthusiasm before all the rust is dealt with, but so far, so good. My granfather worked for Studebaker at South Bend and owned a Golden Hawk, so I'm carrying on a family tradition.

Thanks for the quick and complete reply- Studebaker people seem to be a great bunch of people- I joined SDC last year and just bought a bunch of back issues of TW so I'm starting to feel like part of the club!

Thanks again, fellas.
Gallivan

60Lark
07-26-2006, 01:25 PM
Gallivan, welcome to the forum :D You probably have already figured out that with the years of experiance and knowledge available here, you most likely will have no question go unanswered.

Good luck on your new project :)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dc00b3127cce8b441ec7192c00000000100CcNWTlozYsb http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6dc03b3127cce970d7aafd15f00000010100CcNWTlozYsb
Studebaker Fever
60 Lark
51 Champion
Phil
Arnold, Missouri

CHAMP
07-26-2006, 01:37 PM
Welcome to the forum Gallivan! Two of the greatest plesures I get out of my Studebaker besides driving are People that have no idea what the Stude. is and people that share an old memory of their Stude. they used to own![8D]

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

Roscomacaw
07-26-2006, 02:07 PM
OK, well, that distributor's probably the right one. As to that "module" I'm talking about, it simply clips in place where the cap would/does sit. THEN, the cap and rotor sit on top of that module (really, the better nomenclature would be "Tach sender"). That tach sender is devised of magnets and a rotor that cause a signal to be generated for the Tach to use to determine RPM.
The other pieces to mount the sender are special, double cap clips so that they hold the sender AND the cap since the cap ends up elevated another 2 inches.;)

BTW, Stude V8s don't use "timing chains" - they have gears instead.:D

Here's a photo of a Tach sender unit.:)

http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/1153709883546_tach_sender.jpg

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

N8N
07-26-2006, 03:53 PM
See my web site for more info. on your tach, and a link to Ray F's site with even more info.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Gallivan
07-26-2006, 09:05 PM
Hey thanks, guys- everything I ever wanted to know about tach senders!
I have seen the mating plug for that among all the loose wires hanging around.
I got it fired up today after getting the ballast resistor correctly wired (thanks Alan). I still have a couple of loose wires (one to a condensor mounted on top of the resistor) that I haven't figured out, but at least the engine sounds good!
To celebrate I jumped into some of the boring stuff I've been putting off, like drilling out rocker panel spot welds, and removing a fin.

rockne10
07-26-2006, 09:35 PM
You can't imagine how I envy the fun that awaits you.[:o)]

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg
previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

stude53
07-26-2006, 11:19 PM
Hey, Gallivan,

Welcome! Sounds like you have quite a project ahead of you. Don't get discouraged, just do one step at a time and enjoy the journey. When you arrive, you'll have something rare and fun to drive, and you will be justifiably proud of your accomplishment.

Regards,

[img=left]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/stude53/NewBitmapImage.jpg[/img=left]Bob Feaganes (stude53)
53 Starliner Hardtop
Newton Grove, NC