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imported_n/a
04-24-2006, 04:08 PM
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"Studes" to you all!
I read an article in the Turning Wheels [Co-Operator],about [12] twelve or [18] eighteen months ago. The author of the article told of using a battery charger to remove "RUSTY" from Studebaker parts!
If you read this article; could you tell me what volume it was in?
I am interested in re-reading the article.
If you have used this process to remove rust; would you share your experience following this procedure?
One thing I remember not being clear was; what type of battery charger to use; for example:what amperage,fast charge, slow charge,
electronic, or the old standards with manual shut off. I need a new charger any way so I may as well get one that is best too use on old "RUSTY".
Any information you would be willing to share with me would be much appreciated.
Don't forget to shut the door before you go!
Commander One 54

Roscomacaw
04-24-2006, 05:13 PM
I've been using this system sporadically. It works GREAT! I used a plastic 50 gallon drum that I got for free from a local dairy supply place.
As to the charger - bigger is better. The more amps you can crank thru the solution, the faster it'll clean an item up. Of course, the size of the item being cleaned also determines how fast it'll get cleansed. That's where more amperage comes in.
I found a 24volt battery charger for a industrial strength floor polisher at a sawp meet and paid a whole 5 bucks for it. Baby even has a timer and an amp gage on it. Cranks some significant amps althought I can't recall the rating right now.
Be advised that you don't want the charger's clamps to be immersed in the sloution themselves - they'll be gone in no time at all![xx(] I used stainless steel cable to connect the anode to the positive cable (I used old stainless hubcaps as the anodes themselves) and I've constructed a metal channel with hooks that straddle the tank. I hang the part to be cleaned from one of the hooks so that the part hangs into the solution in the tank. Then the negative cable is attached to the channel.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

stude freak
04-24-2006, 05:21 PM
Mr. Biggs what is the solution you use in the tank? Should I use the full 200 amps on my charger or the (slow) charge 40 amp?

BShaw
04-24-2006, 05:31 PM
FYI: The South Georgia Chapter has a number of links to pages that cover the process and equipment on their web site at:

http://www.georgiastudebaker.com/rustbuster.htm

BShaw,Webmaster
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/StudeRobert/StudeWebService-small.gif
60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion

stude freak
04-24-2006, 05:41 PM
Thank you Mr. B shaw.

Roscomacaw
04-24-2006, 06:02 PM
Thanks Bob. I looked at some of those links on their page. About half of them weren't any good (bad link). The others mention the possibility of using lye as an agent in the tank. I wouldn't do that myself![xx(]

I used one teaspoon of washing soda per gallon of water. I don't think I'd use the 200 amp setting as I suspect it could cause problems if the part and the anode accidentally touched. Although, probably it would just trip the circuit breaker in the charger.[xx(]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

JDP
04-24-2006, 06:17 PM
I wrote the piece in TW, and I'll try and help. A small 10 Amp charger will work fine in a small tank. The bigger the metal anodes the faster it'll work and the more current you'll need. If you're using a kids wading pool to do fenders and the like, you'll need a bigger charger. Any other questions, just ask.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti
54 3R Pickup

cwinston
04-24-2006, 07:39 PM
I've also used this method of rust removal after reading about it in TW, I agree, the bigger the better as far as the charger goes. The article appeared in the first issue of Turning Wheels I ever saw (June 2005, page 32 ), It was given to me by the widow of the Stude owner's car I bought, and thus how I found the SDC.

JDP, great article!!

JDP
04-24-2006, 08:51 PM
"The bigger the better" I know of a guy that uses a welder instead of a battery charger. Only down side, you could die. :)

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti
54 3R Pickup

cwinston
04-24-2006, 09:12 PM
Yikes! And I was wondering what was going through the first person's mind when he got the bright idea to hook up a battery charger to a piece of metal in a tub of water and plug it in. Now a welder?

Roscomacaw
04-24-2006, 09:31 PM
JDP writes: "I know of a guy that uses a welder instead of a battery charger."

That's Tim "the tool man" Taylor, right?[:p]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

JDP
04-24-2006, 10:00 PM
With the battery charger, the worst that can happen is you feel a "tingle" when you reach in the tank withn the power on, not so with a 70 volt DC welder.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti
54 3R Pickup

stude freak
04-24-2006, 11:11 PM
Thanks for all the help guys.Just one question? Biggs what is washing soda?

JDP
04-24-2006, 11:29 PM
It's sodium carbonate, Arm and Hammer washing soda at the supermarket.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti
54 3R Pickup

BShaw
04-25-2006, 08:37 AM
You can get it at stores that sell swimming pool chemicals. Just ask for a "pH increaser" and make sure the ingredient list says sodium carbonate (NOT bicarbonate or bisulfide). I got mine, "pH Up", at the local Fleet Farm. I think it was around $9.99 for a 5-pound pail. I use a 10-amp charger and a Tidy Cats litter plastic pail for small stuff as it has a nifty hinged lid built-in. I've used both re-bar iron rods and a stainless steel pickle server for anodes. Seemed to work best spacing four iron rods vertically around the perimeter, connected together with a 12-ga copper wire. Haven't done but a couple of small things but did the job on a 39 Champion trunk hinge that I probably would have tossed.

JDP: If you still have the word processing file from your TW article, send it to me and I'll "file" it in the Tech Tips section of the website.

BShaw,Webmaster
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/StudeRobert/StudeWebService-small.gif
60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion

doctormap
04-27-2006, 08:10 AM
I tried it! I like it! I had my defroster motor out of my car to work on, the squirrel cage was badly rusted, so I thought I would try this method of de-rusting. I used my old 6-amp battery charger I got from Western Auto about 1973 (still works), and hooked it up using a 12" steel spike as the anode, and hooking up the negative side using a piece of 12-gauge copper wire. After about an hour, the rust was completely gone, leaving only clean, shiny steel. I love it! I can't wait to do this on all the other rusty parts off my car.

The only down side of this, is that this morning when I looked at the sqirrel cage it was covered with flash rust, so I will spray it with the phosphoric acid (Ospho) to get rid of that before I repaint it.

Great idea, very inexpensive and effective, especially for small parts.

doctormap
'48 Champion 4-door

JDP
04-27-2006, 08:40 AM
Don't limit yourself to small parts. A bigger charger and anodes, a cheap plastic trash can or a Toys R Us Kiddie pool and you can do bigger stuff. The guy with the welder setup does frames in a BIG tank.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Avanti
54 3R Pickup