Up until about a week ago my heater fan (66 Cruiser) was working fine. Now I don't get anything. I'm wondering, if the motor is stuck should I still see a deflection on the ammeter when I turn on the switch? Right now I get no deflection, which makes me think it might be a fuse. The problem is I can't seem to find the right fuse in the ratsnest under the dash - OR I have checked it unknowingly and it was good. I fould one attached to a write wire (in-line) in a black holder. From what I could tell, it was the right fuse, but I'm still not sure. I might test the motor some other day with a little 12 volt sealed lead acid battery I have at work, but I won't bother if someone knows that the ammeter shold deflect even with a bad motor. I think it should...
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Scott, I don't think your car uses a fuse for it's heater. I think it's got a circuit breaker. And, no - if the motor's died, it shouldn't necessarily show a defelction on the amp gage. If the brushes are shot or if the windings got an open, there'll be no current flow and thus no ammeter deflection.
Miscreant at large.
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FSNo deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be. -
While I am not familar with that particular motor, generally when these little motors go bad, you can hear them, smell them, or both. If you think the fuse is ok, then I would look for a bad ground. Include the engine to chassis and chassis to body grounds. I suspect that more electrical problems are caused by bad ground than any other single item.
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The wiring diagram clearly shows a 14 amp fuse in line ("under the parking brake") which I think is an error, since that would put it way over by the door in the 1966 cars - nowhere near the switch. Anyway it shows it in the power line going to the switch.
There is a black wire coming from the motor, which I assume is ground and is securly fastened under the glove compartment. I will try and loosen it and re-tighten and see if it helps. That could be it.
Of course the switch may have failed - I will take a meter to it."Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.Comment
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Well, the switch appears to be good and there appears to be no power getting to the switch. I still can't definitely find the fuse, but I see a white wire going down to a circuit breaker (??) strapped to the steering column. Could that be the problem? Can it be opened? Am I way off track?"Madness...is the exception in individuals, but the rule in groups" - Nietzsche.Comment
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No, you're not off track. Looking at a diagram for the heater, I see that the wire from terminal "B" on the switch, goes to a 14amp fuse (as you rightly pointed out to me earlier). I'd guess someone changed this setup along the way. Maybe they liked the idea of a circuit breaker better than a fuse - who knows? With the CB, it resets itself after it cools down a bit - with a fuse, you have to replace it every time it blows.[V]
But breakers DO fail over time. So does anything man-made
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If you can get your meter to the circuit breaker, see if you've got power on the terminal opposite the one that has a wire going to the wiper switch with the ignition switch in the on or ACC position. [:I] If you DO have power to that side of the CB, and no power on the other terminal, the CB's bad.
Of course, I'd be wondering if someone hadn't modified this circuit in the past because they'd had trouble with it.
Miscreant at large.
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FSNo deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.Comment
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