Timkin Bearings- tighting

[curt]

I'm repacking front wheel bearing on the 1955 president. Anyone have a method of knowing the proper tightness? I have had several cars, all with different techniques to make sure the nut is not too tight.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Pack the inner bearing cone with a packer unit, or by hand and install a new seal.
Pack the outer bearing.
Install the hub assembly on a cleaned spindle surface.
Install the outer bearing cone.
Install the spindle washer.
Install the outer axle nut.
Tighten to approximately 20 foot pounds of torque, and then back off one full turn.
(this is to assure that the bearing inner races are fully seated on the spindle shaft. The back off assures no pre-load is on the bearings).
Tighten the axle nut to 5 foot pounds and back off to the first available cotter pin slot.
(This is barely past finger tight).

What you do not want is to have the nut 'tight' on the shaft.
Not 'loose', but not too tight.

The technical spec is for a taper bearing to have between .001" and .005" of positive endplay (measured with a dial indicator).
The closer to .001" you can get, the longer the bearing will last.
(The problem with 'zero', .ooo" is that at zero, you have no idea if you are at zero, or if you might be preloaded. Preload can lead to bearing heating and premature failure.
Probably way more info than you really need, but it makes better sense when it is explained.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by curt

I'm repacking front wheel bearing on the 1955 president. Anyone have a method of knowing the proper tightness? I have had several cars, all with different techniques to make sure the nut is not too tight.

DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

[curt]

Thanks for the reply, some turkey had them way too tight on the one side, I do not see any damage to the bearings or races. I'm trying to clean the old grease from the bearings and then go with a known grease of high quality like what is used in disk break applications.

[52hawk]

Curt,you got it apart,why not replace those bearings? They're not expensive,and usually readily available.

Home of the Almostahawk

[curt]

52 Hawk, I'm still looking over the car. I think what I will do this winter is rebuild the brakes and do bearings at that time. The grease looked like someone spread red colored grease over everything,spindle cap, you name it.I also see the fuel line needs replacing, several dents in the line, almost half closing the fule lines diameter by 1/2. I'm taking yellow-feather(car)to Grapevine,Tx. next wekend to a Kaiser meet. Many of the Kaiser/Frazer people in this area have Studebakers also.

[52hawk]

Gotya Curt! I once had a name brand disc-brake type bearing grease that was red. [supposed to be good stuff].Some people think the more the better with grease,you don't have to use up a whole case on one job!! And I have seen a few of these grease piles with grease every where except where it's needed. Good Luck with the 55 !!!

Home of the Almostahawk

[curt]

I see one suplier has a brake kit for sale, are the supliers competive in quality and price?

[DEEPNHOCK]

I personally like the Turner brake setup...
Very high quality.
Excellent value.
Class act to deal with.

http://www.turnerbrake.com/

Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by curt

I see one suplier has a brake kit for sale, are the supliers competive in quality and price?

DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock