Avanti windshield/back glass water leaks

[Colgate Studebaker]

Anyone have experience stopping water leaks on the windshield and back glass? The car is completely restored, and has a new windshield along with new gaskets. They were installed by pro glass installers, and they want to get it fixed, but would like to know if anyone has had this problem and solution. I know these cars are susceptible to leaks, but if anyone knows of "the" fix, I'd appreciate the info. Thanks, B.V.

[Milaca]

Hi Bill, it was nice meeting you and your wife and your brother too. Prager had his beautifully restored 1962 Lark at the show and experienced some water seepage also. Somebody recently mentioned on a prior posting that sealant should be applied to the outside AND the inside of the rubber gasket to prevent leakage. Perhaps the exterior side of the gasket can be spread open enough to inject urethane sealant? If I find that previous posting, I will copy it here.

Here's a link to that prior post. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=41468


"South Bend or Burst!"
In the middle of Minnestudea

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

I suggest following the procedure descibed in the shop manual which involves applying Strip Caulk to the corners of the framing.

http://community.webshots.com/user/s2dbaker?vhost=community

[WCP]

You have to determine where the leaking is occurring - between the glass and rubber, or between the rubber and body fence. If it between glass and rubber, a pump gun with a needle applicator can be used to liberally apply a liquid rubber sealant (definitely not urethane!) all the way around the glass/rubber interface. The sealant should ooze out onto the glass surface where it can be removed from the glass after it sets up. I use a sharpened popsicle stick to trace or "cut" around the edge of the rubber before the sealant sets up, so the solidified sealant can be peeled off the glass later. The glass can later be cleaned up with mineral spirits (varsol). If the leaks are between the rubber and body fence, then you may have a problem, as it is difficult to access the leak areas behind the stainless trim cover. The area across the top of the front window can't be fixed without removing the window. The side areas requires the side SS trim be removed. Then the needle can be inserted between body and rubber to push in sealant from top to bottom. The bottom corners should be flooded with sealant. It is possible to similarly push sealant between body and rubber along the bottom with the pump gun but care will have to be taken to not damage the paint or distort the SS trim. Pay particular attention to the bottom corners of the "hood hump". The back window presents the same difficulties in sealing. I use a couple of sharpened popsickle sticks to slip between the body and rubber where possible and then insert the pump needle between them to flood a short section with sealant and gradually move along the body fence section a step at a time. You want to see the sealant ooze out.
Avantis can leak at the front where the metal A-pillar meets the fibreglass body at the bottom of the window. This seam may be exposed or may be hidden beneath the side SS trim. Sealant needs to be placed along the interface from the sealant at the window corner back to the door weatherstripping. This area is very difficult to seal from the inside without cutting the body.

[Colgate Studebaker]

Thanks for the info fellas! The guys who installed the windows really sealed it thoroughly, and are surprised it has leaks. That's why we are looking for possible weaknesses and solutions. I'll get this info to them and see if the leaks can be stopped. Brent, it was nice meeting you also. Hope you had a good trip home, without much rain. Thanks again, B.V.

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

Not installing Strip Caulk is asking for trouble in my opinion.

Strip caulk is almost like a clay that is used to build up the surfaces of the lip or trough where the windshield sits -not very common in todays glass installation practice because the tolerances on modern cars is very good. It's also commonly used on Corvettes. Since the bodies were hand laid, there are many inconsistencies -especially in the early bodies as we've all read. If your windshield guy is used to doing new cars and did not follow the procedure in the manual, there's a very good chance they overlooked this important step.

Best of luck with the fix. At least we know the water that leaked in won't cause any serious rust

http://community.webshots.com/user/s2dbaker?vhost=community

[52 Ragtop]

When I was repainting my 63 Avanti, I discovered that in both lower corners of the windshield, the original caulking had dried out. That said, it left about a 3/16" gap between the post and the cowl. I used a 2 part seam sealer and I "hope" any water leaks will be resolved!
You need to remember, it's a Studebaker, and it will leak oil or water, or both! <G>

Jim

[Colgate Studebaker]

Thanks once again guys! I've always referred to strip caulk as dum-dum, but I believe these installers didn't use any. They did use a caulk type sealer, and also a very heavy additional sealer that could pass as "loose" dum-dum. The leaks actually seem to be on the top of the windows, but we will have to do some more water testing to definitively locate the spots. Yes all the fun involved with Studes! B.V.

[52 Ragtop]

To properly test for water leaks, start at the bottom and work up. Have someone inside while running water from the bottom up.

Jim

[Deaf Mute]

Here is what I used on the Avanti with GREAT results:

PERMATEX FLOWABLE SILICON
windshield glass sealer
81730-65AR
I made a wedge of sorts out of oak. It has a healthy handle on it and one end angled and sharpened in a V shape. I slid the sharp end between the glass and gasket and followed behind the wide end with the tube of sealer and injected it all around the window. NO MORE LEAKS!
Now if I could seal the top of the door glass somehow, I'd be happy!

duane miller