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FROZEN BRAKE DRUM

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  • FROZEN BRAKE DRUM

    Hi to all...My car is a 1950 commander.....Today I pulled my hand brake and the left rear brake stayed on...I tried to pull the drum off to look at the problem but after removing the rear axle shaft nut I was unable to remove the drum...I am presuming the key is holding it on. If this is the case, how do I get the key out ?...Thanks ,John

  • #2
    John,
    Are you using the correct brake hub puller?
    Won't happen without it.

    Brad Johnson,
    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
    '56 Sky Hawk in process

    Comment


    • #3
      What you CAN do if you don't have a puller is to loosen the nut and drive the car around the block a couple of times. Leave the nut on, just a couple of threads loose. This always worked for me, as long as the car's driveable. If not, you're stuck with the puller. IIRC, and they did when I worked there, AutoZone rents these.

      Eric Boyle
      Packard Engineering, LTD.
      Wichita, Ks.

      <---Posts may contain anywhere from 30-100% sarcasm--->

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks....will get a puller from autozone tomorrow...John

        quote:Originally posted by rockne10

        John,
        Are you using the correct brake hub puller?
        Won't happen without it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey John,
          If you get a puller, see if they have an extra leg. You will need it if your car is a 4 lug. You don't want to pull on just two studs. I use one from the local rental place.
          Gordon

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by zoegrant

            Hi to all...My car is a 1950 commander.....Today I pulled my hand brake and the left rear brake stayed on...I tried to pull the drum off to look at the problem but after removing the rear axle shaft nut I was unable to remove the drum...I am presuming the key is holding it on. If this is the case, how do I get the key out ?...Thanks ,John
            The key is not holding the drum on. Puller or not, you will be unable to remove the drum if the brakes shoes are expanded inside the drum. First, make absolutely sure there is absolutely no tautness on the emer. brake cable to that wheel. In fact, if you have to, remove the rear cable adjuster from the front cable.

            Second, back off the brake shoe adjustment as much as possible before you attempt to remove the drum.

            IF both of those procedures fail to unlock the wheel, before you try to remove the drum, you are in deep yogurt. I've had to burn drums off due to rusted internals, as drums simply cannot be removed with the shoes making contact. Destruction of the drum is inevitable and it's not pretty...

            Good luck!

            Sonny
            http://RacingStudebakers.com
            Sonny
            http://RacingStudebakers.com

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by Sonny

              quote:Originally posted by zoegrant

              Hi to all...My car is a 1950 commander.....Today I pulled my hand brake and the left rear brake stayed on...I tried to pull the drum off to look at the problem but after removing the rear axle shaft nut I was unable to remove the drum...I am presuming the key is holding it on. If this is the case, how do I get the key out ?...Thanks ,John
              The key is not holding the drum on. Puller or not, you will be unable to remove the drum if the brakes shoes are expanded inside the drum. First, make absolutely sure there is absolutely no tautness on the emer. brake cable to that wheel. In fact, if you have to, remove the rear cable adjuster from the front cable.

              Second, back off the brake shoe adjustment as much as possible before you attempt to remove the drum.

              IF both of those procedures fail to unlock the wheel, before you try to remove the drum, you are in deep yogurt. I've had to burn drums off due to rusted internals, as drums simply cannot be removed with the shoes making contact. Destruction of the drum is inevitable and it's not pretty...

              Good luck!

              Sonny
              http://RacingStudebakers.com
              If that does not work, remove the wheel cylinder bolts and it will fall out of place and allow the shoes to retract.

              JDP Maryland
              JDP Maryland

              Comment


              • #8
                I used the above shown puller and an air impact wrench with a hardened socket to get one off of a 58 Packard wagon. Stand aside the area you are working. When it came off it had so much pressure on it, the drum shot away from the car by about 18 inches.

                58 Packards
                62 & 63 Larks

                Comment


                • #9
                  That's why you leave the nut on, but remove the washer.

                  Eric Boyle
                  Packard Engineering, LTD.
                  Wichita, Ks.

                  <---Posts may contain anywhere from 30-100% sarcasm--->

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    sometimes backing the car up when the emergency brake is stuck might loosen the brake shoes. Also hit the brake drum with a small sledge hammer (on the side of the drum) can also loosen the brake shoes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      When you pull it using this puller, make sure you leave the nut on loose, Run the nut up flush with the axle, this will prevent the axle end from mushrooming and also keep the drum secure once is "POPS" loose.
                      quote:Originally posted by zoegrant

                      Hi to all...My car is a 1950 commander.....Today I pulled my hand brake and the left rear brake stayed on...I tried to pull the drum off to look at the problem but after removing the rear axle shaft nut I was unable to remove the drum...I am presuming the key is holding it on. If this is the case, how do I get the key out ?...Thanks ,John

                      Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
                      53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                      57 SH (project)
                      60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                      Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
                      53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                      57 SH (project)
                      60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Just as Russ says, but re-install the axle nut up-side-down...with the castlations toward the drum. If the nut is installed with the castlations facing outward, the end of the axle can still mushroom inside the castlations, and the nut will split when you remove it. You'll still have a mushroomed axle end. Been there, done that.[B)] Hope this helps.

                        Dan Miller
                        Auburn, GA

                        [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
                        Road Racers turn left AND right.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Good morning....where can I obtain a puller as pictured ? ....I tried Sears and Harbor Freight to no avail...thanks in advance, John

                          quote:Originally posted by rockne10

                          John,
                          Are you using the correct brake hub puller?
                          Won't happen without it.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I believe Snap-On still sells them, and they come up on ebay all the time. A search of previous posts would yield many discussions of this puller.

                            Skip Lackie
                            Washington DC
                            Skip Lackie

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Several of the Studebaker parts vendors sell the correct puller and they aren't really expensive considering what they do. It's a tool that you'll need if you are planning on owning and driving a Studebaker. Bud

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