Interval for oil change.

[curt]

How often should we change the oil in our Studebakers? I drive 1,200 to 2,500 miles per year.

[Mark57]

I put about the same number of miles on my truck each year and I just change it once (in the spring before the driving season starts). I know there are folks who say it should be changed at least once every six months, but so far this interval seems to be working for me. I do use a high quality synthetic oil (Castrol 20W50).

<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar Deluxe
Vancouver Island Chapter
http://visdc.shawwebspace.ca/ </h5>

[raprice]

Mark,
I & most of my friends change our oil once a year in the Autumn.
I personally use either Castrol or Valvoline 20W-50 and add ZDDP.
Rog

'59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
Smithtown,NY
Long Island Studebaker Club

[COMMANDERPINK1]

Doing the same, once a year in the spring at the start of the cruising season. Using 15W40 Northland.

Tom

[WCP]

Autumn is best before storage - gets the contaminants out of the engine. Otherwise, they will plate out or settle to form sludge and corrosion over the storage period. Always clean oil for storage!

[Kurt]

Right befor I put them to bed for winter. I use Valvoline VR1 20-50. I also grease the chasis at the same time

66 Commander R1 Clone
51 Commander 4dr

[jackb]

food for thought....in the mid 60's Studebaker and other auto manufacturers recommended oil & filter changes every 6 months or 4000 miles. How would you compare 60's oil refining and processing to today's standards 50 years later ? Are today's oils and filters better or worse ???? Aside from selling oils and filters what are today's recommended intervals ? My GMC dealer tells me to change the oil & filter when the light comes on....I can tell you that's never been over 6000 miles because I don't let it go that far.....Why ? Maybe 'cause I'm a bit anal about my Stude engine and have projected that interval on my newer vehicle......I'm guilty of "over servicing" my Stude.....but....er...

[Gunslinger]

quote:Originally posted by jackb

food for thought....in the mid 60's Studebaker and other auto manufacturers recommended oil & filter changes every 6 months or 4000 miles. How would you compare 60's oil refining and processing to today's standards 50 years later ? Are today's oils and filters better or worse ???? Aside from selling oils and filters what are today's recommended intervals ? My GMC dealer tells me to change the oil & filter when the light comes on....I can tell you that's never been over 6000 miles because I don't let it go that far.....Why ? Maybe 'cause I'm a bit anal about my Stude engine and have projected that interval on my newer vehicle......I'm guilty of "over servicing" my Stude.....but....er...

The least expensive house brand oils available now are far better than the best oils available when these cars were new. There are no mom and pop oil refineries. Even the same container of Quaker State, Pennzoil, Castrol or whatever brand you use isn't the same as what they made a year ago. The oil companies are always re-refining their oils and additive packages for a number of reasons...to improve the product, automaker demands, EPA regulations, etc.

The bad thing about most new oils is the gov't mandated decrease in ZDDP, which flat tappet engines need, but newer engine designs with roller rocker valve trains don't. There's a lot of information and misinformation flying about regarding the drop in ZDDP. The best I can gather from reading a number of sources is most older engines are not in any appreciable danger. It's primarily hi-performance flat tappet engines with high valve spring pressures that are most at risk, especially during break-in of a rebuilt engine with a new camshaft. It's vitally important to use the cam manufacturer's break-in lubricant and procedures to avoid the problems related with reduced ZDDP.

There was a period several years ago when sub-standard cam blanks and lifters came in from offshore suppliers that were failing at a high rate...mix substandard quality with lack of sufficient ZDDP in the break-in oil and there's no surprise the problems that resulted.

For our older engines, simply do what Studebaker recommended...add a container of STP to your oil. It has sufficient ZDDP to protect your engine should you feel you need it. Many recommend GM EOS as an additive...the local GM dealer's parts manager told me it was nothing more than GM's version of STP. You can buy one of the oils on the market specifically made with additional ZDDP...primarily performance oils or diesel spec oils. Even then, that can change due to constantly changing gov't regulations.

Remember, there are millions of older engines out there running daily on the modern oils without ZDDP without failure. It's probably not that big a deal. When an older engine fails, some will blame it on the oil without ZDDP when the engine has beaucoup miles on it and it was simply worn out.

There was a scare back in the '70s when lead was removed from most fuels. There were predictions of engine valves failing at high rates due to the lack of the tetraethyl lead which was an inexpensive valve lubricant. Engines survived, though it became common to install hardened valve seats when valve jobs were done. I wouldn't be surprised if many engine failures in Studes resulted from driving them with misadjusted solid lifters than the use of unleaded gasoline. The same can probably be said for other makes with solid lifter engines. Again...the engines most in danger from unleaded gas and the drop in octane ratings were high-performance, high-compression types. Many of them survived as well...some didn't, but that's just as easily due to how they were driven.

Cars little used and that sit a lot build up acids and moisture that are detrimental to an engine's internals. Those cars need