I am trying to get a better handle on what my finished lark will really come out weighing and what the front/rear percentages might be. Has anyone had their car on scales to get wheel weights? Anyone actually weighed their car? I will be dealing with a four door 62 Lark that was originally a 6 cyl car. I can work out the figures using my engine and trans weights. I will have an SBC with aluminum intake and water pump, moving the battery to the trunk. Car will be mostly gutted with the rear doors just being welded on skins. Adding a cage to stiffen the car and give me good mounting points for five point harness. Doing all this on a 4 dr lark so that I'm not cutting up anything worth much to start with. Looking for other ideas to get weight off the front.
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An all aluminum LS1 would help
. If not, aluminum heads for your SBC, tubular headers, replace the heavy king pin front suspension and the heavy steering box with Mustang II and R & P, fiberglass fenders and hood, no inner fenders, plexiglass instead of glass, aluminum case stick trans (T5?), light weight starter, small aluminum alternator, aluminum flywheel, aluminum bellhousing, aluminum radiator, no front bumper, disc brakes, aluminum wheels, low profile tires.
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WAComment
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All of what Dick says.
However if the weight distribution issue is that important, do what Dick Landy did in FX. Move both axles forward and use a solid front axle. Just thinking here.[:0]
Bob
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Use an aluminum steering box that steers sideways and hook the drag ling to a bracket bolted to the two inner tie rods. Make a front bumper and brackets out of fiberglas and aluminum bar stock. But you should really use a 56 Golden Hawk for a project like this.Comment
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Yah, I don't think we'll be cutting up a golden hawk any time soon. I really do like the gasser look with the fiberglass front axle etc. but we want this car to turn so probably not. I am trying to find the cubic $ for aluminum heads which is a lot of weight and a bit more power too. Where do I get the figerglass hood and fenders? That I do providing it was not hugely expensive. A fiberglass flip front would be awesome and would save a lot of weight.Comment
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'59 Lark 2dr hardtop with iron 355 Chevy with Weiand blower, 8.8 Mustang rear, front discs, stock wheels and tires and 1/2 tank of gas: 3308 lbs.
'59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc
Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!Comment
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About the same curb weight as a 2007+ Toyota Camry V6 which is capable of running in the 14 second bracket----------stock.quote:Originally posted by Relark
'59 Lark 2dr hardtop with iron 355 Chevy with Weiand blower, 8.8 Mustang rear, front discs, stock wheels and tires and 1/2 tank of gas: 3308 lbs.
'59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc
Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!
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Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
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Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"Comment
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My '64 Daytona with 289 & 4-speed is listed on the title at 3200Lbs. I'd like to think dropping a Chebby in there would cut a least 200lbs off of the nose. Mine also has disc brakes.
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Tom - Mulberry, FL
1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2161.27)
1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)
Tom - Bradenton, FL
1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/ODComment
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Since you are so intent on taking weight off the front end and weight distribution you must have some serious drag racing plans. If so you may be interested to know that weight distribution is not so important as weight transfer and "planting" the rear axle/tires on launch. Its a different topic than this post, but plenty has been written on the subject. The short summary: loose front end with tall (in free height, not in ride height) but low rate springs to "store" spring energy that is released on launch, lifting the front end up and transfering weight back - and a rear suspension geometry that pushes the axle down toward the ground (rather than lifting the axle up toward the frame).
I practice what I speak of: I have a street licensed insured El Camino with a BBC and no power adder - and the battery is still up front. On pump gas it runs upper 10's at 125 mph. The 60' times have been in the 1.5x range. It would be quicker if it were a dedicated drag car.
ThomasComment
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actually no. I want to turn very aggressively and front end weight bias really makes understeer a problem. Thanks for the one scale weight. that helps!Comment
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This '53 Commander, with a Morrison frame, LS1, etc, weighs 2694 without paint, glass, rugs, and audio equipment, but fully assembled with seats, interior panels, etc. Didn't keep the exact corner weights, but they were very close left to right (within 15 lbs.), and front to rear was 51/49.
'53 Commander
Art Morrison chassis
LS6 ASA/4L60E'53 Commander
Art Morrison chassis
LS6 ASA/4L60EComment
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Hey, 62larksedan: Where's that Camry? I really spanked a new Infinity sports car, those kids didn't think old antiques were very fast....
Art
'59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears
Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!Comment
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thanks for the weights and the front rear!Comment
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