View Full Version : Check out this goodie that I fould today

12-20-2009, 01:48 PM
While getting ready to work on repairing my trunk floor today I dropped the gas tank so I wouldn't potentionally blow my self up while grinding and cutting and look what I discovered.The po was a real winner with this one.
That there be's fiberglass on the gas tank
Now next question is should I just put it back on and hope for the best or should I just get a new one.This one holds with no leaks and I have no idea how long its been on there like this.

12-20-2009, 01:51 PM
How far away are you from cali; so I know what it's going to sound like...

12-20-2009, 01:58 PM
Many/most new cars use plastic fuel tanks. Is there really much difference?

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

12-20-2009, 01:59 PM
What if all that fibercrap does happen to break loose and fall off...? Not a chance I'd want to take.

Matthew Burnette
Your Friendly Stude Trim Bender

12-20-2009, 02:09 PM
I was wondering how this was holding up? Have you had it for awhile and using the car?



12-20-2009, 02:26 PM
Well,I got the car a few months ago and I have been just driving it down the street and around the block,stuff like that just working on the motor and getting it running good.I just now started really gettin into working on the body of the car and like I said when I went to go work on the trunk floor I decided to pull the gas tank so I wouldn't blow up and this is what I found.I took it out and it had gas in it with no leaks or anything.I even turned it upside down and it held.I have no idea at all how long this tank has been done like this.I sat it over in the corner of my shop with gas still in it and its been there for a few hours now and it is still holding gas as I type.I'm debating about what to do with it now.The guy seems to have done a pretty good job sealing the tank up with the fiberglass but I just don't know how good or long it will hold.It looks like the he put 20 layers of fiberglass on it cause its about 1/8 to 3/16 thick.

12-20-2009, 02:37 PM
Maybe that is not fiberglass resin, but 6 tubes of JB Weld! [:0]

Who knows, it could work.:)


Invalid User Name
12-20-2009, 02:52 PM
Just a thought - What if you got that liquid stuff that you seal the inside of your gas tank with? Coat the inside with a good coat of that stuff until you can locate a new or good used tank.

Venice, Florida
1950 Champion
9G F1

12-20-2009, 03:08 PM
What kind of Stude is that out of??

12-20-2009, 03:19 PM
It's out of a 59 lark and I've thought about getting some of that tank sealer to put in it.I mean as of right now its water tight.Looks like crap but it holds.the inside of the tank looks pretty clean so I guess the po must have cleaned it out when he redid it.I've heard of ppl doing this before but that was only on tractors and mopeds and stuff like that.

41 Frank
12-20-2009, 04:12 PM
If you decide to get a new tank let me know I have some.

12-20-2009, 04:26 PM
I'd put a new tank on it and then you don't have to worry about it giving up down the road.

12-20-2009, 04:35 PM
A good friend of mine used that tank sealer stuff once.. Surely he followed the instructions, I assume.. Wound up having to redo the carb's, the valves as it seemed to have sealed them too and all these on a XK-140 Jag.. UUGGHH !!


Jerry Forrester
12-20-2009, 04:52 PM
Please, Next time you post a picture, size it so I don't have to scroll back and forth in order to read the text.
thanks, Jerry.


I am in the process of getting parts and pieces gathered up for the May 2010 South Bend Swap meet. How about you?

Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
Be sure to check out my eBay store
for your shiny Stude stuff.
More pix of Leo the '55 Pres HT here...http://tinyurl.com/2gj6cu

12-20-2009, 05:01 PM
I wouldnt be afraid to use that tank. The patch is on top after all so little or no pressure against it. If you begin to smell fumes from it in coming years, then replace it. There must have been a mouse nest or other debris trapped between the tank and trunk floor that held moisture to make it rust there. Or maybe its because the trunk floor rusted through and that 75 pound bag of rock salt that was placed in the trunk for traction in the snow fell through and rested on the tank. [:0]

Lark ala mode
In the middle of Minnesota

12-20-2009, 06:33 PM
Sorry about the pic size Jerry I just wanted to make it big enough for ppl to see good.I think the problem did come from the trunk leaking over time cause like I said the trunk floor is toast.Has anybody else ever used a tank sealer before?Could anyone recomend a good one?

12-20-2009, 06:47 PM
Jerry, you need to get a bigger monitor. ;)

Matthew Burnette
Your Friendly Stude Trim Bender

12-20-2009, 06:50 PM
Either that, or click on full screen. I don't have to scroll on this thread.

'50 Champion, 1 family owner

12-23-2009, 11:14 PM
Well its been 4 days now and its still not leaking anything.

12-24-2009, 09:11 AM
I would toss that tank. For as cheap as they are, I would get one in better shape and use KBS tank restore. I just did two tanks this summer and the product is absolutely outstanding!

Here is a link to the stuff I used.


57 & 58 Packards and Larks

12-24-2009, 11:52 AM
It would scare me. Do it and right and get a good tank
to bolt back on.

Joe D.

Jerry Forrester
12-24-2009, 03:30 PM
quote:Originally posted by hopsBB

Well its been 4 days now and its still not leaking anything.

I would not be afraid to use that tank.

My motto;
Use it up,
Wear it out,
Make it do,
or do without.


I am in the process of getting parts and pieces gathered up for the May 2010 South Bend Swap meet. How about you?

Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
Be sure to check out my eBay store
for your shiny Stude stuff.
More pix of Leo the '55 Pres HT here...http://tinyurl.com/2gj6cu

52 Ragtop
12-24-2009, 07:25 PM
Just a thought! Fiberglass will not stick to metal for long! When we made the fiberglass bodies for the Auburn Speedster, we wrapped the steel fram with fiberglass going back to the glass body. Doing that, gave the strength to the body. Of course, they would never pass the DOT side impact tests, but since we only made the bodies, we were not required to test them. The actual manufacter that sold the kits would have been if they sold over 500 per year. They didn't.

If it were mine, I'd find another tank!


12-25-2009, 09:02 AM
Perhaps the tank has already been coated inside. I have had several rusty and leaking tanks repaired and sealed. Only one didn't do well. I don't know what they used inside but outside looks like truck bedliner material. You might try coating the outside with that to protect the fiberglass. NT

Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.

12-25-2009, 09:46 AM
quote:Originally posted by 52 Ragtop

Just a thought! Fiberglass will not stick to metal for long!

Absolutely correct. For proof, look here:


Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
Parish, central NY 13131

12-25-2009, 10:44 AM
I have used the KBS tank lining kits on several applications with excellent results and I am sure it would work fine on your tank. However, if it was my tank, I would always worry about it leaking and would replace it for my own peace of mind.

Jeff Jones
Tucson Arizona
1947 M-5

Dan Timberlake
12-25-2009, 01:31 PM
Does it look like clean bright metal under the "fiberglass" ?

I think it T'ain't the fiberglass, it's the resin.

When folks say "Fiberglass" they generally mean glass fiber matt or cloth, plus polyester resin. But, Fiberglass and Kevlar (oooh) and carbon fiber OOOOHHH!!) ) work can be done with 2 or 3 basic resins.
In order of increasing bond strength and cost they are - polyester, vinylester, and epoxy.
The difference in bond strengths when applied to well prepared surfaces is SUBSTANTIAL. Even Epoxy's Bond strength to poorly prepared surfaces is terrible. Well, epoxy actually bonds pretty good to rust bark, but the rust is barely attached to the steel beneath, so overall the bond is weak. Witness Bams link.

Plus, poor Polyester has such a large amount of shrinkage when curing (8%) that a lot of its pitiful bond strength is used up at the bond line just holding itself to the substrate. The low bond strength is a factor even When applying polyester to a cured polyester composite. Maybe even more so for vinylester.

Polyester's Resistance to gasoline, and especially today's gas+plus+alcohol is not so good.
Horror story about ethanol's effect on polyester resin based fuel tanks here -
Even epoxy can be vulnerable to gasahol, if only from the prep side, http://egyptian.net/~raymacke/Cbnskif36.htm

If you drill, grind or sand it, and it smells sweet ( to my nose) like a body shop ( bondo ) then it is either polyester or vinylester.
Sanding epoxy creates a more acrid smell.