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View Full Version : Question about painting column shifters.....



silverhawk
12-19-2009, 10:32 AM
Hey all,

On my car, the original shift lever had a worn out rubber bushing, so I'm just putting on a good used assembly on for now, and will put the original one on when I wear out my good one. Anyway, no matter what I do, there is a contaminate in the lever, that is making the paint pull away in sploches. I've sanding it, washed it multible times, taken it to bare metal for the most part, washed it with rubbing alcohol, ect. IT IS STILL PULLING AWAY!!!!!:( I'm wondering if something in the manufacturing process has caused this. Anyone else have a problem with this?[?]


Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBells.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

mbstude
12-19-2009, 10:52 AM
Did you prime it before painting?

Matthew Burnette
Your Friendly Stude Trim Bender
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk179/1959S2D/th_mouldinnnnn001-1.jpg

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 11:08 AM
The primer pulls away as well. :(

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBells.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Da Tinman
12-19-2009, 11:08 AM
I wonder if its got Armor All or other silicon based dash shiner upper stuff on it. If so prepare for a battle, try brake clean it does a better job of getting it off.

Might also try plain old soap and water as something, soda fer instance, won't come clean using solvents.


www.datinmanjay.com

http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff198/Da_Tinman/

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 11:11 AM
Ok, I'll try that too. Thanks!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBells.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 11:43 AM
Brought it back to bare metal again, and have washed it as well. At this rate, its tempting to put it in as is, as now it has a antiqued brushed steel apearence. I could also put in a extra chrome on I got, but that would look a little off I think in the car, we'll see how frustrated I get with this job first,LOL!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBells.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 12:07 PM
Geeze, its STILL pulling away in spots! Its not as bad as before, so I'm just going to "dust" it with paint, so its not so glossy, and just put it in. Then, I can look forward all the more to having my original back in, when I got a new bushing.(8 dollar part, just I'm a caso, and had a shifter with a good one on it,LOL!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-2.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Chucks Stude
12-19-2009, 12:51 PM
Wipe it with lacquer thinner, or go to an auto paint store and get some prep sol. Clean with a CLEAN cloth, you still have some silicone based residue on the part.

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 01:10 PM
Ok, I can try that. I got some lacquer thinner I think, I know paint thinner for sure. Thanks for the tip!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-2.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

warrlaw1
12-19-2009, 01:13 PM
I think Da Tinman and Chuck are on the right track. WD40 is also silicone based and some rust paints such as TremClad are a b***h to paint over. My brain-dead buddy sprayed his squeaking ceiling fan with a silicone lube and it ate through the plastic ball joint. The fan took out his stereo. You need some cleaner that takes out silicone.

wolfie
12-19-2009, 01:15 PM
Muratic acid mixed 1 part acid to 8 parts water is your friend. It will etch the metal. follow with an etching primer and your problem should go away. Steve

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/wolfie_53/T-cabhoodsprings015.jpg

StudeRich
12-19-2009, 01:17 PM
quote:Originally posted by silverhawk

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-2.jpg

Easy there Bud, you ANTIQUED the whole car, not just the shift lever! [:0]

StudeRich

wolfie
12-19-2009, 01:20 PM
Should have added soak your shifter in the acid solution then nuetralize any acid remaining on the part by soaking it a few minutes in a solution of baking soda and water. Steve

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/wolfie_53/T-cabhoodsprings015.jpg

N8N
12-19-2009, 01:29 PM
If none of the other suggestions work, take some spray can lacquer primer, and just dust it on like a guide coat. Do this 2-3x, letting it dry completely between coats, then after it's mostly primer colored put a real coat of primer on it.

If THAT doesn't work... get another piece :)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 01:38 PM
Wow, lots of suggestions now! And, I'm having a brain fart right now(a perpetual one actually,LOL), what is muratic acid?

Rich, I thought it helped the looks some,LOL! [:o)]

I'll might try that primer suggestion maybe, if some of the others don't work, and I still have patience for it,LOL!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-2.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Chris_Dresbach
12-19-2009, 02:08 PM
Take it to bare metal and clear coat it. If it splotches, so what! Call it your "Rat Rod" shift lever![:o)];)[8D]

Chris Dresbach

Jeff_H
12-19-2009, 02:18 PM
Muratic acid should be available in the paint area of the hardware store. Typically used to clean and etch concrete. Be careful with it. I believe its actually hydrochloric acid with some additives?

Side story: I was using some to clean and etch stuff and left a uncovered plastic bowl of it on my work bench near a couple empty cans of adult beverage for a week once. When I tidy'd up later I found those cans were full of pin holes from the acid fumes....

Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/devilstowerthumbnail.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

wolfie
12-19-2009, 02:28 PM
Muratic acid is also sometimes called brick acid. Primarily used for cleaning concrete. Its relatively inexpensive ($5-8 a gal). As Jeff H said be careful, it can do damage. Always wear nitrile gloves and avoid breathing it in as much as possible. Steve

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/wolfie_53/T-cabhoodsprings015.jpg

hopsBB
12-19-2009, 02:36 PM
I wouldn't leave it on to long or you won't have a colum at all.

studeclunker
12-19-2009, 02:39 PM
Muratic acid is available at Pool suppliers, I believe. Also, the sepia effect on the photo is really neat. Looks a lot like the pictures my Dad used to take.:)

Hey Steve, love the shell (on the Champ)!:D

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/december%2006/HPIM0234.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/56%20Parkview%20Wagon/56wagonleftfrontclipped-1.jpg
Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

studerodder
12-19-2009, 02:40 PM
guys, if you are gonna mess around with muriatic acid, dont store it in your garage. if the container gets a hole in it, the vapors will destoy any thing chromed. happened to my dad, it was ugly.

rockinhawk
12-19-2009, 02:43 PM
quote:Originally posted by wolfie

Muratic acid is also sometimes called brick acid. Primarily used for cleaning concrete. Its relatively inexpensive ($5-8 a gal). As Jeff H said be careful, it can do damage. Always wear nitrile gloves and avoid breathing it in as much as possible. Steve

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/wolfie_53/T-cabhoodsprings015.jpg
It is also used for cleaning brick. And to adjust the P H in swimming pools. Be careful with it! It will destroy Aluminum and stainless just by being in the same room with it. NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/avatar2.jpg

COMMANDERPINK1
12-19-2009, 03:42 PM
If you go the route of the muriatic acid be careful where rubber gloves and a full face shield and a charcoal mask would also be good. Personally if I couldn't get it clean with a good wax and grease remover I would Question the product that you are using for primer and paint, if it aerosol cans I would ditch that and just ask a local body shop to spray some primer on the next time they have the primer gun loaded

Tom

http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx240/TOMLSEXTON/Iowa036.jpg

Chucks Stude
12-19-2009, 05:08 PM
My lord, just clean it with lacquer thinner and a clean, clean cloth. What it is doing is called fisheyeing, and it is because the paint does not adhere to what is under it. Even oil from your fingers will cause this to happen. It sounds like it is sanded ok, the sandpaper may have some contaminates on it. I would avoid the acid, unless some is handy. You can buy lacquer thinner in a quart. Acid comes in gallons. What are you going to do with the leftovers? Paint thinner is either Naptha or Mineral Spirits. They usually have tailing of oil in them. They do not need to be pure to work. So, useing Paint Thinner could make it worse.

mbstude
12-19-2009, 05:29 PM
Dylan, if you spend that much time and effort on a silly little shifter stick... Your cars should be perfect. :)

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 06:18 PM
Well, because of all the parts around, I'm not doing the muratic acid idea, thanks for the suggestion anyway! And that writes off paint thinner as well. I didn't touch the stick after I wiped it down right before painting though, thats the wierd part, and I have never had a problem with the products I'm useing, its a already used can even! So, I've just shot it with paint anyway, will say its a "temporary used part",LOL!

Matt, I like my cars PERFECT!!!! But I will still drive them. There is many many imperfect things about my car,so alot of things will be redone at some point. Now my dads car, when its finished, its going to be very nice, but it isn't going to be perfect either. :( Its hard to do a perfect paint job on a engine, when its still in the car,LOL! Not alot of room to work around it. If it gets pulled however.....:D

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-2.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Invalid User Name
12-19-2009, 07:10 PM
I think I would try acetone before I would bring acid anywhere near my Studebaker. Also, what about TSP?


Doug
Venice, Florida
1950 Champion
9G F1
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m15/w4jdz/Stu-1.jpg

sweetolbob
12-19-2009, 07:20 PM
After you wipe it down, Spray it with SEM Self Etching primer. Make the first coat a light dusting then a light cover coat.

Follow up with your choice of spray enamel.

Me thinks you've cleaned the heck out of it, you need something to adhere to the surface. Wolfie is on the right track.

I keep a spray can of SEM on hand at all times to prime smooth ferrous and all non-ferrous metal.

It ain't cheap but it will stick like grim death.

One last hint, be sure it's warn 60 degF or above when you spray it otherwise the adhesion will be compromised.

Bob

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/P1000416.jpg?t=1227109182, http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/031-1.jpg?t=1254424814

silverhawk
12-20-2009, 12:49 AM
Well, I got to a point where it didn't pull away so much. I really don't want my car down long, so I just shot it anyway, and installed. If I ever do use this lever again, I'll probely abrasive blast it. Or, I pony up for a 8 dollar rubber bushing, and put the original in,LOL! That would be better for the car anyway, and it would match everything. So, thanks for the suggestions guys, and I will definatly remember then for future projects and problems!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-2.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Retired
12-20-2009, 06:19 PM
Muritic acid is used by sheet metal workers to clean the area they are going to solder. Druggest made it years ago. My father worked at the "tinners" trade for 50 plus years. No mask, no rubber gloves, smoked cigars into his 60's. Died of natural causes at 104. This is not to say you should use protective measures but, we are not as hardened as the old timers, even though I am an old timer now.

Richard

Retired
12-21-2009, 03:19 AM
quote:Originally posted by Retired

Muritic acid is used by sheet metal workers to clean the area they are going to solder. Druggest made it years ago. My father worked at the "tinners" trade for 50 plus years. No mask, no rubber gloves, smoked cigars into his 60's. Died of natural causes at 104. This is not to say you should not use protective measures but, we are not as hardened as the old timers, even though I am an old timer now.

Richard


Richard