View Full Version : Floor coating

12-17-2009, 07:32 PM
I was just wondering if anybody had ever used herculiner or any other product like it to put on the floor of their cars after they have repaired their floorpans.I know alot of ppl use por15 but I was just curious if anybody has.I'm on 4x4 forums alot and a bunch of ppl use truck bed coatings on those and they seem to have good results.I know Studes aren't 4x4 but it would seem to me that the thicker coating would also help in killing road noise as well.Plus I've already got a full gallon of TB coating just sittin around left over from helpin a friend on his truck:D

12-17-2009, 07:34 PM
I coated the floors in my '58 Commander with Herculiner. The car's window seals leak so I wasn't going to put carpet in. Floors are solid, but I wanted something to look at besides the surface rust. So, Herculiner is what I used. And after 9 months of so of daily driving, it has held up very well. :)

The worst part is, dirt likes to "stick" to it.

Matthew Burnette
Your Friendly Stude Trim Bender

12-17-2009, 07:35 PM
I like the spray in bedliner stuff myself though others here disagreed when I said that last time. I have used it for that purpose successfully and it seems to be holding up well so far (5-6 years) Steve


dean pearson
12-17-2009, 08:24 PM
The stuff I stripped out of my car was easily 3/16" thick and I would like at some point to replace it with a similar product so I'll be watching this thread to see what you come up with.


12-17-2009, 09:45 PM
The bed in my 1982 El Camino is lined with a rubbery bedliner coating, but it is lifting up in places. Perhaps the floor wasnt scuffed enough prior to applying the stuff.

Lark ala mode
In the middle of Minnesota

12-18-2009, 06:21 AM
Yeah,you gotta make sure you scoff it up good.I need to hurry up and get something put on it cause I got the same problem that MBSTUDE has with the window seals and since I just redid the floor I'd hate to see it start rusting again.

12-18-2009, 08:16 AM
If you want to use a bedliner/undercoating, you still need to prime your floor. The bedliner will protect it, but not totally seal it. Here is a link to our website. Go to the photo gallery, there is a folder for the 53 Champion we are doing. We did the inside and underside with it, and then sprayed it body color to match.


12-18-2009, 09:23 AM
I checked out the pics of the 53 and I think I'm gonna go ahead with the liner.I hadn't really thought about doing the hood and engine area with it or the inner fenders but that's a good idea too.From the pics it looks like you covered everything.How much did it take to do the 53.I'll be useing the black liner on mine.I've got 1 gallon.Can't beat a freebie.For those who already have TBC how has it improved road noise?How well does it hold up under the hood with the heat?

Da Tinman
12-18-2009, 09:35 AM
You need more than primer under it. Primer is not water proof and in fact will retain water.

I would scuff and clean it, then por15, scuff it again then the bed coating.

The bed coat helps a lot with road noise and heat from the floors, have never exposed it to engine/ehaust heat though.



12-18-2009, 09:36 AM
Oh yea, I did the firewall and inner fenders (engine bay) on my '59 pickup with the stuff too. Maybe it'll hold up better than paint. :)

Matthew Burnette
Your Friendly Stude Trim Bender

12-18-2009, 09:43 AM
While I'm thinking about it,has anybody ever used Klean Stripe rust convertor.I got some of that too,also freebie:DI know you can buy the stuff at wallyworld,but I've never used it.I got about a case of it,the brush on not the spray.

Ray Stewart
12-18-2009, 10:38 AM
I use an old fashioned product. Coal tar expoxy. When house boats were being built of steel (vs. alum) this two part coal tar expoxy was used on the outside of the hull. Grainger carries it. I have soaked cured CTE (stirring stick) in gas...then in thinner, and nothing seems to break it down. Once mixed, you have plenty of time to brush it on the floor pans. It is rather thich but it seeps and fills the surface pits and creavices. Stinks for a couple days but that goes away. Seems a bit flexible without being brittle and adheres extremely well. I used it on a 62 Lark and have run the Lark all day in high 90 weather...no odor, no peeling. Done two years ago. I have not found a down-side to CTE. Much much cheaper than all the other products (does this make me a CASO). I am not sure how it would wear as the actual floor covering on the floor pans (I put in carpet). I use this as the interior sealer and as the undercoat (now that is a mess to apply). I have not found any bare spots where I did apply the CTE and it came off save one...my fault because I didn't get the scaled rust removed on the underside of the lark trunk pan. HOPE THIS HELPS.

Ray Stewart SDC
51 pick-up
57 silver hawk
62 lark

12-18-2009, 10:48 AM
As long as you use an etch primer and an epoxy primer, which will seal the metal, you should be just fine (we are on the Gulf Coast of Texas, rust is our biggest competition). But we also base clear the undercoating to make it easy to clean. (the inside floor is sprayed with single stage, no need for clear.) HOPS, we do the whole underside of the car, and fenders with undercoating. On the fenders its great bc if you like to drive your car, there is no worry about a rock or object slinging into the inside of the fender and blistering the paint on the outside. Also, ease of cleaning after a good drive. When clear coated, some spray detailer and a rag can make the underside look brand new again.

12-18-2009, 10:55 AM
quote:Originally posted by Da Tinman

You need more than primer under it. Primer is not water proof and in fact will retain water.

I would scuff and clean it, then por15, scuff it again then the bed coating.

The bed coat helps a lot with road noise and heat from the floors, have never exposed it to engine/ehaust heat though.



Depends on the prepped surface, any existing rust should be dealt with first. Prep the surface, spray or paint epoxy primer on and then apply the bedliner. You won't have a problem.
The primer is not for water proofing anything, it acts as a sealer and adhesion promoter. The bedliner coating has anti rust chemicals in it, just be sure all the primer is covered.
I recommend the airspace primer this company makes. Affordable high quailty epoxy primer.

Da Tinman
12-18-2009, 11:23 AM
I guess my complaint with the above post is using a primer as a sealer, they arent. Primers are a porous surface that "breaths".

Por15 is a sealer. Easy to use, easy to prep, and sticks to almost everything. It is also thin enough to run into nooks crannies and down into the pinch welds. Used correctly it is nearly impossible to remove short of grinders and magic cuss words.

Spendy? a little, but a quart can of por will cover most car floors with one coat.

Just my thoughts anyway.



12-18-2009, 11:46 AM
Yes you are correct that "some" primers are porous, such as a 2k, but epoxy isnt. Taken from crankshaftcoalition.com
"Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over fiberglass, plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust. Care must be taken to observe the epoxy maker's recommendations in preparing the surface over which the epoxy is applied."
We use all Dupont Ultrapremier products, on the can it say Dupont Epoxy/Sealer DTM (direct to metal)
I know what por 15 is, we use it a lot on chassis and such. Just make sure when you are using por-15 that you get the "metal ready" and "marine clean" prep products from them also, and read the directions. If the prep products are not used, you risk the chance of it releasing and pealing.

12-18-2009, 12:01 PM
I am just lookin for the most durable/cheapest way and you can't beat free:D.Also thought I'd mention that the stuff I got is the rustoleum truck bed coating.Alot of 4x4 guys use it.The floor is going to be carpeted,not right away but,well whenever I get the money to get it done.Probly a few months cause I've got more important things that need doing to the car first.I just happen to think about the TB coating for now just because its what I've got on hand and it would be better than just running with a primered floor.What about slipperiness when it gets wet?I don't want to have an a--bust hazard everytime I go to get in or out of the car.

12-18-2009, 02:33 PM
Concepts, nice work on the coupe {I mean hardtop}. Nice alteration to the frame. x-cellent work overall. I would let you work on my car. jimmijim

Stude Junkie+++++++Do it right the f$$$$ Time. Never mind. Just do it right. When youre done your done. You'll know it.

12-18-2009, 03:34 PM
Thank you jimmijim

52 Ragtop
12-19-2009, 07:14 AM
Primer is NOT waterproof!


12-19-2009, 09:31 PM
Here is a picture of the bottom of my Hawk. The bottom was prepped by removing all of the loose undercoating withe a scraper and a wire wheel. everything that was not still covered with factory undercoating was painted with POR15. Then everything was painted with 3 separate coats of Herculiner. It appears to be a durable finish. The inside of the car was scraped and painted with POR15.


Wayen K.
Libby, MT
1961 Hawk
1971 Mustang Mach 1

12-20-2009, 12:36 PM
I always tell my customers that the best money they will spend on a project is the sandblasting! Looking at these cars that have been put on roticeries and hand scraped??? Wow too much time on you hands... yes the factory undercoating has to come off before sandblasting , but it us usually so brittle its just rains off when using a flat blade on an air chisle.
After sandblasting, use a good DTM epoxy primer then, seamseal, rockguard, and as a final step we always spray on a couple of coats of industrial epoxy paint (any color the customer wants) This makes the underside of your car rust resistant and almost bullet proof, as well as being very easy to keep clean. Sounds like a lot of work but it realy isn't onec you have the car on the roticery and papered off. Just a matter of drying time in between steps and spray time.

Brian Woods
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

12-20-2009, 12:57 PM
All this info is great about epoxies,and roticeries and all,but for 1)this car isn't going to be a frame off restore 2)Its going to be a driver as soon as I get it up and runnin cause I don't want to throw alot of money into the car 3)I'm a Caso,which is way 1 and 2 are so important.If I was going to be doing a full restore on it I'd probly do something like that but I'm just wanting to use what I've got on hand.