THREE QUESTIONS

[zoegrant]

#1..was the clock an option for a 1950 Commander ?

#2..if there was no clock was the delete plate which say`s Studebaker backlit as the other guages ?

#3..my data plate on the door pillar is missing so I have no sure way to know what the VIN # is other that the title that came with the car which shows a vin...is the VIN any where else on the car besides the pillar post
Thanks..John

[Swifster]

John, I'll address #3. Some of the newer cars had the serial number stamped on the rear crossmember of the car. I don't think they bothered in 1950. It is possible to replace the serial number plate if yours is missing. First, let me state the obvious for the sake of legalities. It is illegal to pull, replace or swap serial numbers on any car!

Now, that being said, I've seen blank plates on Ebay a few times. You could also get a piece of metal cut to the origianal demensions if you have a another from a junk car (see my last sentence in the first paragraph). You can also usually find replacement decals that say that the car is a Studebaker. The serial number could probably be engraved at a trophy shop or any place else that makes nameplates. Having another plate also gives the engraver a font type to follow. The plate should be spot welded in place, just as the original.

Before going thru all of this, I would get a copy of the build sheet from the Studebaker National Museum and verify that your car matches the build sheet and the title. The serial number does not have a break down by body style. You'd hate to find out that the title is for a Land Cruiser and your car is a Champion business coupe. Most people with a Studebaker will get a copy of the build and you don't want any explaining to do after a sale.

The build sheet will also verify the body shell. The body number is printed (stamped) on the build sheet. This is an example of mine...



The cowl tag on my car shows the body number 1354. So does the build sheet. If your cowl tag is there, it can tie together the serial number to the car. it can also tell you that you got a bogus title with the car.

I would do this first before going thru the DMV. In most cases the DMV will want to issue their own VIN to the car. This can hurt the value somewhat. Some will let you get a replacement under your state's State Police or county sheriff's department. The key is having a lot of documentation.

Oh, and the answer to #1 is yes, they did offer a clock.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2161.27)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

[studegary]

The VIN is a vehicle identification number. Cars at that time did not have specific VINs. Some states used the serial number for a VIN and other states used an engine number for a VIN. Is the number on your title for a VIN the serial number (missing plate) or the engine number?

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[jd-stude]

The VIN plate on my 50 Champion was screwed on to the rear of the driver's door opening. I believe it to be original fastening method and makes loosing them or switching them very easy.

Ken

[Swifster]

"The Serial Number is located on the plate on the left front door pillar post.

The letter and numbers identify the model number, starting production numbers and assembly plant"

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2161.27)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by Swifster

"The Serial Number is located on the plate on the left front door pillar post.The letter and numbers identify the model number, starting production numbers and assembly plant"

The Serial Number will identify the plant, the build sequence within Champion or Commander of this particular car, and the year model, that's it.

There is no starting serial number noted or model number.
Also the plate IS on the driver's door [u]rear door post</u> (latch post) on pre-1953's

StudeRich

[zoegrant]

Ok...this info is great...I double checked and there is no VIN plate attached to any door...I checked the 2005 title I have and the VIN # is the same number stamped on the engine block..Is this the number i submit to get the build sheet ?...if the engine is out of another car then I presume the build sheet will be incorrect for this car..what say you all...John

[Tom Bredehoft]

Get the build sheet describing your 50 landcruiser, and include body tag. They may nor may not be able to get your sheet that way, they may need the Serial No. from the VIN Tag. If they can get you the build sheet, take this to your DMV for a title, you can then prove the engine No. was used when the car was first registered, (this depends on state)

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
....On the road, again....
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[rockne10]

[studegary]

quote:Originally posted by zoegrant

Ok...this info is great...I double checked and there is no VIN plate attached to any door...I checked the 2005 title I have and the VIN # is the same number stamped on the engine block..Is this the number i submit to get the build sheet ?...if the engine is out of another car then I presume the build sheet will be incorrect for this car..what say you all...John

As I stated, there is no VIN plate, there is a serial number plate (that may be used for a VIN).

The plate should not be "attached to any door". It should be attached to the B-pillar where the driver's door latches.

In the 1940s-1950s, many states used the engine number as a VIN (also previously stated).

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by rockne10

The build sheets are identified by the Serial Number. (VIN)
That build sheet would indicate the original engine number installed.
Going the opposite direction, I believe you would need to peruse every 1950 build sheet to find the one with your engine number to identify the Serial Number of the vehicle it was installed in.[V]

This would be true to a point. And it would take some time to narrow down the search, but if the cowl tag is still attached, the body number (and engine number) could be used to narrow the search within a day or two. Of course you then have to look at all of the build sheets for that time frame.

If the body number was 7805 (as an example), I'd be looking for + or - 100 from that number to start and try to narrow it down from there. The same would be true with the engine number. While the body shells didn't go in order, I don't think any body shell sat there that long. If you found that 7760 went down the line on Sept. 17th, I look at the 17th & 18th for the correct body or engine number. Again not easy, but I doubt you'd have to go thru the entire production run. A couple thousand maybe, but not all.

I will say this, it would be nice if any car they pulled the build sheet for that the data base we take for granted on newer cars and trucks was kept. All the options have a code and all cars have just about every thing listed by a number. It would make quick work for stuff like this.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2161.27)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

[zoegrant]

Thanks for all the help with this ....I will order the build sheet and report back...thanks again to all who responded...John

[Johnnywiffer]

Clock was an option for all models on '50, Commander and Champion, EXCEPT Land Cruiser. Was standard on Land Cruiser, which also might be classed as a Commander. Dunno about trucks.

And those chrome strips inside the instrument units (especially the speedometer) REALLY lit up with that purple bulb. Of course, the instrument letter/numbers lit up a beautiful green, too, when new. Now, not so well because most of the luminocity (Is there such a word?) has leaked out. [)]

Studebaker painted that inner strip black in '51 and "greige" in '52, so you can't see the purple as well, if at all. Too bad. Because the purple and green together was SOME dash! "Black" light was IT!

John

[royvaldez]

If you want to see a complete 1950 Commander Dash that has the clock, I can email you a picture. This is an extra complete Commander dash in my inventory with factory installed clock.

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by royvaldez

If you want to see a complete 1950 Commander Dash that has the clock, I can email you a picture. This is an extra complete Commander dash in my inventory with factory installed clock.

Hey Roy, are you selective about who you show it to? After that nice decription about how the dash lit up, I want to see to!



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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2161.27)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)