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  • Transporting with stuck wheels - Advice?

    Hello! I'm new to the Studebaker Drivers Club. I have a 1954 Studebaker Commander that is going to need some considerable work. My first order of business is to get the vehicle out of the elements so the rust damage doesn't continue. I will likely need to tow the vehicle. This wouldn't be an issue except that a few of the wheels do not rotate (in neutral). I believe this is due to rust and corrosion. My question is: Will I damage the vehicle by dragging it onto a wrecker? I don't want to hurt the transmission or the wheels themselves. Please let me know if you have any advice.

    Thank you for your help!

    Miles
    Miles Wellesley
    1954 Studebaker Commander
    Jacksonville, AL

  • #2
    Do we assume there are tires on the wheels? No tires, the wheels may be damgaged, but they are replaceable.

    If there are tires, they may be damaged in dragging, but that old, they will need to be replaced anyway.

    Non turning surely wont' hurt the transmission, but leave it in neutral to allow the other wheels to turn.

    I dragged my '55 onto a rollback, no tires turning. had to drag it off, too, it wouldn't slide. No damage at all.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    ....On the road, again....
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

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    • #3
      The wheels likely are not turning because the brake shoes are stuck to the brake drums because of rust. I wouldnt be afraid of sliding it onto a truck bed. I recently pulled a large truck a half mile without the front driver side wheel turning, and the flat tire stayed on and didnt even wear through.


      Brent's rootbeer racer.
      MN iron ore...it does your body good.
      sigpic
      In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by Milaca

        The wheels likely are not turning because the brake shoes are stuck to the brake drums because of rust. I wouldnt be afraid of sliding it onto a truck bed. I recently pulled a large truck a half mile without the front driver side wheel turning, and the flat tire stayed on and didnt even wear through.


        Brent's rootbeer racer.
        MN iron ore...it does your body good.
        Here's a tip. Take the bolts out of the likely stuck wheel cylinders. When you try to move it again, they'll rotate out of the way and release the shoes. Loosen or remove the steel lines in the rear so they won't twist off.

        JDP/Maryland
        JDP Maryland

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        • #5
          It will be fine I Have done it on lots of cars and trucks its just like putting the brakes on to hard. But put it in neutral. When you get it home pull it off with an outher car. And put it away. < Lacy

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          • #6
            Another tip for you, if you are sure you know how to LOOSEN the starwheel brake adjusters, (you do NOT want to tighten them) this may help.

            The screw end of the adjuster screws INTO the barrel shaped "sleeve" to shorten it, loosening the brakes. It is usually visible through the adjuster hole at the bottom of the backing plate with a flashlight. There may be rubber plugs in the holes, easily removed.

            StudeRich
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

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            • #7
              DITTO on what StudeRich says had to do this many a time. Usally jack up the car and work on each brakke drum with the wheel off and Ill rapp on the wheel mounting surface with hammer lightly (use a jack stand under car)and would be able to spin by hand. Only one time this didnt work was when the shoe pad rust off the shoes and bound things up.

              Tom
              sigpic

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              • #8
                Smack it with a really big hammer.

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                • #9
                  And remember, the lug-nuts on the left side have left-hand threads. Ya wanna seem to TIGHTEN it to LOOSEN it, if you get what I mean.

                  John

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                  • #10
                    This is great advice! Thank you all so much for your help. I will move it and see if I can free the brake drums.

                    All the best,

                    Miles
                    Miles Wellesley
                    1954 Studebaker Commander
                    Jacksonville, AL

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It'd always fun when somebody mixes up the drums. You hafta look at the end of the stud for a "R" or an "L" to be sure. And the truth shall set you free..and rolling..hopefully.

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                      • #12
                        That is a good tip, JDP. (removing wheel cylinder bolts)

                        I sometimes have ended up using a puller on all stuck wheels.

                        The last car with stuck wheels we got onto the trailer with the big tractor bucket and tractor doing most of the pushing.

                        Sometimes the clutch is stuck and both rears won't turn.

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                        • #13
                          Moved two cars in the past month with stuck brakes, John Clary and i loosened up the brake on his 55 pickup and it rolled up on his trailer, i also moved my 51 business coupe last week and it had froze up sitting in the garage, backed off the brake adjusters and it too came right out of its resting place.

                          If it wasn't for the last minute i'd never get anything done.
                          101st Airborne Div. 326 Engineers Ft Campbell Ky.

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                          • #14
                            quote:Originally posted by Studecomm54

                            Hello! I'm new to the Studebaker Drivers Club. I have a 1954 Studebaker Commander that is going to need some considerable work. My first order of business is to get the vehicle out of the elements so the rust damage doesn't continue. I will likely need to tow the vehicle. This wouldn't be an issue except that a few of the wheels do not rotate (in neutral). I believe this is due to rust and corrosion. My question is: Will I damage the vehicle by dragging it onto a wrecker? I don't want to hurt the transmission or the wheels themselves. Please let me know if you have any advice.
                            Thank you for your help!
                            I have had a couple occasions where I needed to get a car with stuck wheels on my trailer. In each case I was going to drag them on the trailer (in neutral as others suggest). In each case, pulling the car a few feet broke loose the stuck brakes (shoe rusted to the drum). So, I would try moving the car first to see if they will break loose and, if not, then go to the easiest suggestion you have received and work your way up to the more difficult ones if the easier ones don't work.



                            Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

                            Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
                            '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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                            • #15
                              An experienced "roll-back" wrecker driver will have the answer. He'll either have plastic "glides" that he'll put under each tire, or there's always motor oil or antifreeze. It'll slide right up on the bed...been there, done that.

                              Dan Miller
                              Atlanta, Ga

                              [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
                              Road Racers turn left AND right.

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