Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Very Bad Stude Day

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Very Bad Stude Day

    Those of you who've been following the tale of my '63 Lark have heard the saga: bought it with a low-end knock that was hoped to be a cracked flex plate; noisier and noisier starts, loss of power over the past week (not just up hill but on the level too).

    Well, my friend Bruce (who's been a mechanic for 30 years) finally had time to get it up on his lift this morning. The knock isn't from the flex plate: the flywheel bolts have come loose and have egged-out the mouting holes in the flywheel. He can turn the flywheel through the inspection hole a good half-inch. This accounts for the "bucket of bolts" rattle at startup and low RPM. [V]

    Worse, though, is that he found about 1/4" of crank endplay, which suggest that the thrust bearing has gone bad and probably the crank is eaten up too. Needless to say my wife was very happy to hear this news. [8]

    So now I'm faced with the choice of either sourcing a good used engine, or rebuilding mine. I need help, guys... I'm open to all suggestions (and pity is appreciated, too [)] )

    Sigh...


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 Lark Standard

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

  • #2
    I feel for ya...big time.

    But you gotta take it apart to find out exactly what's needed for repairs. If you're lucky....it may just be the thrust bearing that's bad and not the crank! And check the fastener holes in the back of the crank well too.

    I did some work on a friends car a few years ago....same crank problem. Only the crank ate its way past the bearing and actually into the block. He wasn't very happy when he saw the parts...can you spell crate engine?

    Good luck.

    MIke

    Comment


    • #3
      I feel for ya...big time.

      But you gotta take it apart to find out exactly what's needed for repairs. If you're lucky....it may just be the thrust bearing that's bad and not the crank! And check the fastener holes in the back of the crank well too.

      I did some work on a friends car a few years ago....same crank problem. Only the crank ate its way past the bearing and actually into the block. He wasn't very happy when he saw the parts...can you spell crate engine?

      Good luck.

      MIke

      Comment


      • #4
        It sounds like the end play was not set up properly at the last rebuild. Studebaker end play is critical - not too much and not to little. It is set with shims behind the harmonic balancer. If it is a 259, cranks are still available NOS for $65.00, and the bearings can be had for $75.00 last I checked. Get someone who knows how to read the shop manual and follow instructions to do the job. If everything else is OK, you can just do the lower end and you will be OK. I've heard of people doing it in the car, although I have never done it like that. Be sure to set end play properly and use new flywheel bolts.

        Comment


        • #5
          It sounds like the end play was not set up properly at the last rebuild. Studebaker end play is critical - not too much and not to little. It is set with shims behind the harmonic balancer. If it is a 259, cranks are still available NOS for $65.00, and the bearings can be had for $75.00 last I checked. Get someone who knows how to read the shop manual and follow instructions to do the job. If everything else is OK, you can just do the lower end and you will be OK. I've heard of people doing it in the car, although I have never done it like that. Be sure to set end play properly and use new flywheel bolts.

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by whacker

            I've heard of people doing it in the car, although I have never done it like that. Be sure to set end play properly and use new flywheel bolts.
            Yeah, I've heard of guys doing that too, only to scar up the new crank trying to get all the rods to line up from underneath [xx(] I don't think I'll be doing that!

            Guess it makes sense to pull and rebuild. You never know what you're getting with a used engine - it might sound good on the stand and then die in the car once the trans and exhaust are hooked up. At least this way, I'll know what's been done and that it's been done right.

            Plus, while the engine's out I can put in new mounts and maybe do a front-end rebuild... gotta look on the bright side, I guess!


            [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

            Clark in San Diego
            '63 Lark Standard

            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by whacker

              I've heard of people doing it in the car, although I have never done it like that. Be sure to set end play properly and use new flywheel bolts.
              Yeah, I've heard of guys doing that too, only to scar up the new crank trying to get all the rods to line up from underneath [xx(] I don't think I'll be doing that!

              Guess it makes sense to pull and rebuild. You never know what you're getting with a used engine - it might sound good on the stand and then die in the car once the trans and exhaust are hooked up. At least this way, I'll know what's been done and that it's been done right.

              Plus, while the engine's out I can put in new mounts and maybe do a front-end rebuild... gotta look on the bright side, I guess!


              [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

              Clark in San Diego
              '63 Lark Standard

              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

              Comment

              Working...
              X