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p71victoria
11-12-2009, 07:13 PM
I posted in the tech forum that my 64 Daytona was having problems running/stumbling/idling/etc… I finally broke down and took the Stude to a mechanic after over a week of being carless. The diagnosis is that I need a new carb. I was told that the Stromberg WW that is in the car is dumping gas and causing the plugs to become wet with fuel. I was also told that rebuilding the carb would not fix the problem. This is the second Stromberg that has had this problem I have owned:(. I think it’s time for a different brand. So my question is what will bolt onto the two barrel 259 stock manifold? Thanks to all who replied to my other post for help, and I appreciate any further help! If the Studebaker doesn't run soon I fear my girlfriend is going to make me get rid of it for a Subaru hatchback!!!!

-Chris
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm78/p71victoria/IMG00044.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm78/p71victoria/IMG00561.jpg

1964 Daytona
Seattle,Wa

dean pearson
11-12-2009, 07:36 PM
I have a Stromberg If you want.
Cant help with advise on something else.
If you want P.M. me and I will send you a picture, It say's aerotype on the front of it and at least one person tryed to tell me that it came off of an airplane, Good chance it will make yor car fly.
dpearson@scwcompanies.com

Dean.

Milaca
11-12-2009, 07:51 PM
I have the same carburetor on my 1963 Hawk and it was dumping gas into the engine until I purchased a repair kit for it. After replacing the needle & seat, it was fine. If the old needle doesnt fit tight against the seat when closed, fuel keeps coming in and thus overfeeds the engine with raw gas.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3473/3939471781_afa477b3ae_t.jpg
Brent's rootbeer racer.
MN iron ore...it does your body good.

Studeman
11-12-2009, 08:47 PM
Can anyone say "New Tech-Page".. until then...

The BIGGEST reason for a Stromberg WW to "dump gas" into the intake is a MIS-ADJUSTED FLOAT. It's NOT that they aren't adjusted correctly according to the BOOK... but instead... it's because of the modern gasoline formulations. Modern gasoline is not nearly as DENSE as the old-time leaded regular gas of the 60's.
So, what does this mean???
It means that you must get ALOT more fuel into the fuel bowls- to raise the float to a level to shut off the needle/seat. THIS is what creates the "dumping" of fuel into the air-horn.

THE FIX: Low-Choke model WW's- please refer to the photos below

1) Remove the LARGE machine screw holding the pivot-arm for the acceleration pump (A*). This screw is LEFT-HAND thread... so you must turn it CLOCKWISE or risk breaking it off. Remove the arm from the top of the acceleration pump and from the linkage-rod (B).
2) Remove the spring-clip (or cotter pin) from the Choke Linkage (C)
3) Remove the spring-clip (or cotter pin) from the High-Idle Cam and remove the rod (D)
4) Remove the 6 Carburetor Air Horn Screws (E)and lift off the top-cover. Be careful not to lose the Accel pump spring- it might remain attached to the pump.
5) Remove the brass "baffle" between the carb float (F) and the tang (G) that pushes against the needle.
6) To LOWER the float level- hold the float-tang firm but not hard enough to distort the neoprene, against the needle. Bend the lip of the float (NOT the tang) to lower the level. The level should be set at least 1/32" LOWER than the book specification. The spec is (3/16"), so the NEW float level should be set to 7/32" below the main body- measured at the CENTER of the float.

NOTES: Do not turn the carb body upside-down with the top-cover off. You may lose the idle-tubes and check-ball for the acceleration pump.
http://raylinrestoration.com/TEMP/SDCForum/WWCarb1-small.jpg

http://raylinrestoration.com/TEMP/SDCForum/WWCarb2-small.jpg


Ray

http://www.raylinrestoration.com/TEMP/azavatar.gif
Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

studeclunker
11-12-2009, 08:59 PM
There are a variety of things that can be done to fix the problem.
Ray's excellent explanation is one way. Another is to replace the two-barrel with a four. In that case, one can get a somewhat more modern carb, that is to say a new one to replace the old worn out one. That means replacing your two barrel manifold with a four barrel. Not cheap, then again, neither is a new carb. However, it's a way to get the car running decently and your girl off your back.;)

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Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
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barnlark
11-12-2009, 09:14 PM
Originally posted by Studeman

Can anyone say "New Tech-Page".. until then...

The BIGGEST reason for a Stromberg WW to "dump gas" into the intake is a MIS-ADJUSTED FLOAT.

That's just great help. Great explanation, Ray. I haven't done that since high school with a 6 banger's Carter carb in my Chebbie Van. Must have adjusted that five times until I realized the float had a pin hole in it and was gas logged. Good luck, p71victoria.

Laemmle
11-12-2009, 09:34 PM
Chris,

if you want a good used Carter AFB I have one for sale.



quote:Originally posted by p71victoria

I posted in the tech forum that my 64 Daytona was having problems running/stumbling/idling/etc… I finally broke down and took the Stude to a mechanic after over a week of being carless. The diagnosis is that I need a new carb. I was told that the Stromberg WW that is in the car is dumping gas and causing the plugs to become wet with fuel. I was also told that rebuilding the carb would not fix the problem. This is the second Stromberg that has had this problem I have owned:(. I think it’s time for a different brand. So my question is what will bolt onto the two barrel 259 stock manifold? Thanks to all who replied to my other post for help, and I appreciate any further help! If the Studebaker doesn't run soon I fear my girlfriend is going to make me get rid of it for a Subaru hatchback!!!!

-Chris
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm78/p71victoria/IMG00044.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm78/p71victoria/IMG00561.jpg

1964 Daytona
Seattle,Wa

p71victoria
11-12-2009, 09:39 PM
Everyone, I appreciate the help. Ray that was a great explantion, thanks! The first thing I and the mechanic checked was the float and it has been adjusted down to compensate. At this point, what I really would like to know is if any other type of carburetor would work on the stock two barrel manifold. Once again thanks for the help.

-Chris
http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm78/p71victoria/IMG00044.jpghttp://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm78/p71victoria/IMG00561.jpg

1964 Daytona
Seattle,Wa

jallen
11-13-2009, 02:10 AM
GM Rochester 2 barrel is an easy swap, and might be a little easier
to work on, and cheaper to rebuild.

jimmijim8
11-13-2009, 06:33 AM
Very good Ray. Thanks a bunch.. jimmijim

Stude Junkie+++++++Do it right the f$$$$ Time. Never mind. Just do it right. When youre done your done. You'll know it.

bezhawk
11-13-2009, 07:18 AM
In the second picture, there should be a spring clip ( near area g) on top of the float pivot pin.
If it is not there the float will float up unstead of pivoting and will NOT shut off the fuel flow. This will cause flooding etc.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com
http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com

Studeman
11-13-2009, 07:32 AM
quote:Originally posted by bezhawk

In the second picture, there should be a spring clip ( near area g) on top of the float pivot pin.
If it is not there the float will float up unstead of pivoting and will NOT shut off the fuel flow. This will cause flooding etc.

This was just a parts-carb I grabbed off the shelf to take the pics.. it's missing several parts ... The accel nozzles, gaskets, baffle, etc... I have them... they just aren't in the picture.


Ray

http://www.raylinrestoration.com/TEMP/azavatar.gif
Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

bezhawk
11-14-2009, 11:00 AM
Ray, I wasn't disparaging your good advice, rather pointing out if he is having flooding issues , thats the first place to look.
Often times, mechanics without stromberg specific,experience
don't know to look there.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com
http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com