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I must be down to my last 4 pair, guess I'll buff them up.
64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT Hawk 4 speed
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander
JDP Maryland
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I must be down to my last 4 pair, guess I'll buff them up.
64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT Hawk 4 speed
60 Lark HT
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander
JDP Maryland
Comment
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My theory is that the real real nice items get top top dollar on eBay...probably more than they would get anyplace else (outside of Barrett Jackson ).
The average or (ahem) less than average items get about average prices (even though some sellers are counting on some big bucks at times).
These trim items are VERY nice.
With that said, I believe you can still buy pretty good ones for $50 a stick or so. Pro polishing should be around $100 each if they don't need a lot of straightening or deep scratches removed (Lark Parker?).
So the seller is going to make maybe 50%. (the clothes you buy in the store cost twice as much as what the store paid for them). Not a terrible mark up, and worth it to some to have a perfect item without any trouble or work on their part.
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA
Comment
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My theory is that the real real nice items get top top dollar on eBay...probably more than they would get anyplace else (outside of Barrett Jackson ).
The average or (ahem) less than average items get about average prices (even though some sellers are counting on some big bucks at times).
These trim items are VERY nice.
With that said, I believe you can still buy pretty good ones for $50 a stick or so. Pro polishing should be around $100 each if they don't need a lot of straightening or deep scratches removed (Lark Parker?).
So the seller is going to make maybe 50%. (the clothes you buy in the store cost twice as much as what the store paid for them). Not a terrible mark up, and worth it to some to have a perfect item without any trouble or work on their part.
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA
Comment
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This makes me remember replacing a lot of these when they got small dings in them because you could get NOS ones for $20. No, I no longer have any. I only have a spare used one for a '62-'64 Hawk, but the shipping probably costs more than the part is worth.
Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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This makes me remember replacing a lot of these when they got small dings in them because you could get NOS ones for $20. No, I no longer have any. I only have a spare used one for a '62-'64 Hawk, but the shipping probably costs more than the part is worth.
Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
Comment
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That's an amazing price. [:0] Judging from the seller location of Littleton I believe I did the work on that pair. Tis nice to feel valued.
That's almost enough to make me put up with the hassle of selling my spares on ebay. I may have to rethink this whole operation.
Like most things the cost on doing a pair depends on how much work is needed.
The rear quarter top trims 53-55 are usually demanding pieces to do because of the bends that were put in them by the fastening clips. After they get highly polished those defects bends/dents show up.
After they are straightened, polished, and buffed they typically have to go back through that process again. Most other pieces don't need that. Because of their shape they have twice the surface area of most other pieces to be buffed. Since they are essentially done twice, they can easily take four times the polishing and buffing work of another similar length piece and the straightening work ion these type pieces is a bit harder to do.
The flatter the surfaces -- the harder they are to make defects disappear (unless you want to sand them away to tinfoil). Trim pieces are only about .020" thick so beware of the stainless restorer who has a preference for sandpaper over straightening.
It took me a while to develop a straightening technique that didn't eat up the manhours. Some of the earlier works were passable but not concours and I didn't charge much.[)]
When they are put back on the cars if the body man doesn't get the clips aligned right, those highly visible clip dents are put right back in the strips.
Good luck on "buffing out" your spares to sell.<g>
While I'm editing this I might just as well ramble on the subject.
The GT pieces are much easier to find and are more often in good shape. I don't know why. Their profile is slightly smaller than the 53-5 pieces and, if cross sectioned, a GT section will slide perfectly inside a 53-5 piece. This fact is of value probably only to customizers.
I have started work on a small how-to book for redoing Studebaker stainless. It would contain some methods and tools that are not referred to in other references. I'm not excited about it because there may be near zero demand for such. Reply comments considered.
Lark Parker aka Trim Trader
sigpic
Lark Parker --Just an innocent possum strolling down life's highway.
Comment
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That's an amazing price. [:0] Judging from the seller location of Littleton I believe I did the work on that pair. Tis nice to feel valued.
That's almost enough to make me put up with the hassle of selling my spares on ebay. I may have to rethink this whole operation.
Like most things the cost on doing a pair depends on how much work is needed.
The rear quarter top trims 53-55 are usually demanding pieces to do because of the bends that were put in them by the fastening clips. After they get highly polished those defects bends/dents show up.
After they are straightened, polished, and buffed they typically have to go back through that process again. Most other pieces don't need that. Because of their shape they have twice the surface area of most other pieces to be buffed. Since they are essentially done twice, they can easily take four times the polishing and buffing work of another similar length piece and the straightening work ion these type pieces is a bit harder to do.
The flatter the surfaces -- the harder they are to make defects disappear (unless you want to sand them away to tinfoil). Trim pieces are only about .020" thick so beware of the stainless restorer who has a preference for sandpaper over straightening.
It took me a while to develop a straightening technique that didn't eat up the manhours. Some of the earlier works were passable but not concours and I didn't charge much.[)]
When they are put back on the cars if the body man doesn't get the clips aligned right, those highly visible clip dents are put right back in the strips.
Good luck on "buffing out" your spares to sell.<g>
While I'm editing this I might just as well ramble on the subject.
The GT pieces are much easier to find and are more often in good shape. I don't know why. Their profile is slightly smaller than the 53-5 pieces and, if cross sectioned, a GT section will slide perfectly inside a 53-5 piece. This fact is of value probably only to customizers.
I have started work on a small how-to book for redoing Studebaker stainless. It would contain some methods and tools that are not referred to in other references. I'm not excited about it because there may be near zero demand for such. Reply comments considered.
Lark Parker aka Trim Trader
sigpic
Lark Parker --Just an innocent possum strolling down life's highway.
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