MotorHead Oil

[JDP]

Many of us use diesel rated oils like Rotella for it's zinc content to protect our Studebaker cam shafts. Those oils contain .14 percent zinc and that's do to drop next year. I learned this from a ad in the Sept TW about "Motorhead" oil that contains .5 % zinc for older cars. You should not use it in catalytic converter cars and it's about $15 a gallon. That still might be cheap insurance in the upcoming years.


Studebaker On The Net

http://stude.com

Studebaker News Group

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker

Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
63 Daytona HT
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT(parts car)
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
52 Starliner
51 Commander

[stude freak]

Sept TW? Gosh just got my August issue on the 11th.

David Baggett Mantachie,Ms.

[stude freak]

Sept TW? Gosh just got my August issue on the 11th.

David Baggett Mantachie,Ms.

[kamzack]

My suggestion on motor oil, gear oils,trans oil is a company called Lubrication Engineers. Their 15/40 is what I've run since 92 in all the Studes I've had since then. There are a number reasons and justifications for using this product line. This particular viscosity has a high zinc content and is formulated for both gas and diesels. It is not my intent to a vast discussion aout differing opions,everyone has one and not all are the same. But from the experience I've had and some other collectors I've turned on to this product have had good sucess with it. It's the most thermally stable oil there is period. outperforms all,all syn-lubes. Is a petroleum or mineral based oil. Eliminates hydrolysis from extended storage, that is to say that when an engine is shut down heat vapors combine with condensated moisture and will form an acid that attacks bearing material. This oil eliminates this. It does this as a result of one the proprietary additives coating everything and staying there as a single molecular film. Has the strongest film strength. Highest viscoty index,the point at which you lose lubricating film at high temps. It is a long drain oil. has better lubricity than anything out there. Example, Had a fleet of Mack dump trucks doing 80k mile drains with filter changes at 10k. It's an oil that is made for the one or one hundred vechiles that sit alot or for those that run flat out 24/7. It increases fuel efficiency an average of 2 to7%. They have a gas and diesel fuel additives that far better than a product called Sta-bil. Have known of a can of gas that sat for 5 yrs and still had the right oder,no degradation.
We are conditioned to buy what we see advertised on tv,meaning that we've been led to believe that synlubes or syn/blends are the way to go. LE has a web site that addresses that issue and has customer testomials based savings,extended equiptment life and extended oil life.
Website www.le-inc.com. They even had a 38or 39 buick in the great race that had LE oil in it. there were quite a few others but this car was photoed at corp office in Ft.Worth. You can call them:1-800-537-7683 order what you want and they'll ship right to your door or have them send a field rep to see you and show you the product line.
LE does not spend millions of dollars on tv ads or big add in publications. They do advertise in many industrial mags. They spend that money keeping themselves on the cutting edged of the industry and manufacturing the highest quality lubricants possible. LE also spends large amounts on research and devlopement. LE was the first to come out with a blend 10w30 2years before castrol introed thiers'. First in the industry to introduce low-tox biodegradeable oils without using vegetable base and turned out to 43 times less toxic than veg base oils. Nuff said
And yes I've been a part of this product line for almost 15 years, so I know I'm standing on firm ground.
Kim Kramer

[kamzack]

My suggestion on motor oil, gear oils,trans oil is a company called Lubrication Engineers. Their 15/40 is what I've run since 92 in all the Studes I've had since then. There are a number reasons and justifications for using this product line. This particular viscosity has a high zinc content and is formulated for both gas and diesels. It is not my intent to a vast discussion aout differing opions,everyone has one and not all are the same. But from the experience I've had and some other collectors I've turned on to this product have had good sucess with it. It's the most thermally stable oil there is period. outperforms all,all syn-lubes. Is a petroleum or mineral based oil. Eliminates hydrolysis from extended storage, that is to say that when an engine is shut down heat vapors combine with condensated moisture and will form an acid that attacks bearing material. This oil eliminates this. It does this as a result of one the proprietary additives coating everything and staying there as a single molecular film. Has the strongest film strength. Highest viscoty index,the point at which you lose lubricating film at high temps. It is a long drain oil. has better lubricity than anything out there. Example, Had a fleet of Mack dump trucks doing 80k mile drains with filter changes at 10k. It's an oil that is made for the one or one hundred vechiles that sit alot or for those that run flat out 24/7. It increases fuel efficiency an average of 2 to7%. They have a gas and diesel fuel additives that far better than a product called Sta-bil. Have known of a can of gas that sat for 5 yrs and still had the right oder,no degradation.
We are conditioned to buy what we see advertised on tv,meaning that we've been led to believe that synlubes or syn/blends are the way to go. LE has a web site that addresses that issue and has customer testomials based savings,extended equiptment life and extended oil life.
Website www.le-inc.com. They even had a 38or 39 buick in the great race that had LE oil in it. there were quite a few others but this car was photoed at corp office in Ft.Worth. You can call them:1-800-537-7683 order what you want and they'll ship right to your door or have them send a field rep to see you and show you the product line.
LE does not spend millions of dollars on tv ads or big add in publications. They do advertise in many industrial mags. They spend that money keeping themselves on the cutting edged of the industry and manufacturing the highest quality lubricants possible. LE also spends large amounts on research and devlopement. LE was the first to come out with a blend 10w30 2years before castrol introed thiers'. First in the industry to introduce low-tox biodegradeable oils without using vegetable base and turned out to 43 times less toxic than veg base oils. Nuff said
And yes I've been a part of this product line for almost 15 years, so I know I'm standing on firm ground.
Kim Kramer

[Kdancy]

LE now requires an 800.00 order for shipping cost to be "free". That is a lot of oil staying in storage for a long time for most of us. Also Kim, this thread is about the future specs not present, how are the oil company's going to address that? Can you get an answer from LE?

Before switching, I used LE for 12 or so years. Really liked the product. On my last oil change I pulled oil samples on both my 97 Dodge ram with cummins (130,000+ on truck, 23,000 on oil) report said everything fine, continue with present oil change interval. The other was our 98 4runner (140,000+ on runner, 30,000 on oil) silican level slightly over normal (change air filter) and condensation slightly over normal-- ready for oil change. I change oil filter about every 7 to 10,000 miles and top off. How much oil would be saved if everyone went to extended range oil ??

[Kdancy]

LE now requires an 800.00 order for shipping cost to be "free". That is a lot of oil staying in storage for a long time for most of us. Also Kim, this thread is about the future specs not present, how are the oil company's going to address that? Can you get an answer from LE?

Before switching, I used LE for 12 or so years. Really liked the product. On my last oil change I pulled oil samples on both my 97 Dodge ram with cummins (130,000+ on truck, 23,000 on oil) report said everything fine, continue with present oil change interval. The other was our 98 4runner (140,000+ on runner, 30,000 on oil) silican level slightly over normal (change air filter) and condensation slightly over normal-- ready for oil change. I change oil filter about every 7 to 10,000 miles and top off. How much oil would be saved if everyone went to extended range oil ??

[rdmaxon]

I'm going to need a mentor I think, to keep my Avanti alive and well. I had not thought about the oil to protect the camshaft,etc. JDP, Any place on the net I can go for a tutorial on what I need to do to give my ride the optimum maintenance requirements? Y'all please remember, I was just a kid when these were new so I have a bit of a learning curve to catch up on. RD Maxon

[rdmaxon]

I'm going to need a mentor I think, to keep my Avanti alive and well. I had not thought about the oil to protect the camshaft,etc. JDP, Any place on the net I can go for a tutorial on what I need to do to give my ride the optimum maintenance requirements? Y'all please remember, I was just a kid when these were new so I have a bit of a learning curve to catch up on. RD Maxon

[N8N]

The good news is that engine oil is possibly the only lubricant that hasn't radically improved over the years with no downsides for use in older cars. I have to admit that I'm probably a bit over the top in my use of "top shelf" lubricants (I run Redline synthetic in all my gearboxes, rear ends, etc.) but even the conventional stuff is very good compared to what was available 50 years ago. Grease is even easier; there's several modern synthetic greases that are supposedly good for both wheel bearings and chassis lube points, so you can use your grease gun to pack wheel bearings (packing bearings by hand gets old, fast IMHO) The only "gotchas" I'm aware of are:

1) supposedly the B-W ODs only work well with either GL-1 or non-detergent motor oil.

2) In a conventional stickshift with "yellow metal" synchros you shouldn't use a GL-5 or GL-6 lube, GL-4 only. (this is why I use Redline BTW as they are the only mfgr. of synthetic that specifically states that their products meet GL-4 specs.) I've heard of people running GL-5 for years with no issues but why chance it?

Engine oil is a contentious issue only because all engines do tend to burn a little oil, no matter how small an amount, and emissions regulations have mandated oils that don't have additives that could a) foul O2 sensors or b) harm catalytic convertors, neither one of which is an issue for most Studebaker drivers.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[N8N]

The good news is that engine oil is possibly the only lubricant that hasn't radically improved over the years with no downsides for use in older cars. I have to admit that I'm probably a bit over the top in my use of "top shelf" lubricants (I run Redline synthetic in all my gearboxes, rear ends, etc.) but even the conventional stuff is very good compared to what was available 50 years ago. Grease is even easier; there's several modern synthetic greases that are supposedly good for both wheel bearings and chassis lube points, so you can use your grease gun to pack wheel bearings (packing bearings by hand gets old, fast IMHO) The only "gotchas" I'm aware of are:

1) supposedly the B-W ODs only work well with either GL-1 or non-detergent motor oil.

2) In a conventional stickshift with "yellow metal" synchros you shouldn't use a GL-5 or GL-6 lube, GL-4 only. (this is why I use Redline BTW as they are the only mfgr. of synthetic that specifically states that their products meet GL-4 specs.) I've heard of people running GL-5 for years with no issues but why chance it?

Engine oil is a contentious issue only because all engines do tend to burn a little oil, no matter how small an amount, and emissions regulations have mandated oils that don't have additives that could a) foul O2 sensors or b) harm catalytic convertors, neither one of which is an issue for most Studebaker drivers.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[JDP]

How about adding some of this with a oil change.(Maybe half a bottle ?)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99003%2D1&N=700+400078+1001+115&autoview=sku

Studebaker On The Net

http://stude.com

Studebaker News Group

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker

Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
63 Daytona HT
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT(parts car)
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
52 Starliner
51 Commander

[JDP]

How about adding some of this with a oil change.(Maybe half a bottle ?)

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=CRN%2D99003%2D1&N=700+400078+1001+115&autoview=sku

Studebaker On The Net

http://stude.com

Studebaker News Group

http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker

Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
63 Daytona HT
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT(parts car)
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
52 Starliner
51 Commander