I've just had a complete new single quiet exhaust installed on my 64 Cruiser. The car had started previously on just a slight nudge from the starter. NOW, it starts and dies immediatly. Sometimes two or three times, seems worse when it is hot. Finally it will start and then runs fine. I also installed a new air cleaner. The engine revs seem to drop and it seem strained when I put the aircleaner back on after having it off for a little. Any ideas?
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problems after new exhaust
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When cold, the weight should be pointing up; when hot it should fall down to about horizontal.
nate
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55 Commander Starlight
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55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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Sometimes the heat riser valve is properly installed but new pipe and manifold gaskets are slightly askew, preventing the valve from moving freely.
Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight
previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiserBrad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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After a good look and feel down there, the heat riser is positioned this way. The weight is to the bottom, and can swing between the 4 oclock position and the 8 oclock position. The little arm on the upper part of the casting points to the 10 oclock up position. NOW, it is also missing the pin, or stud, so the spring has nothing to latch onto. It is sitting down relaxed with its hook like a backwards C at the 6 oclock position. I can probably drill into this and replace the link pin. BUT, as I see this, there would be no room for the riser to be inverted from this position as the weight would certainly hit the exhaust manifold. So, is it right as it is? Any tips on replacing that stud? My dremel is a bit too long to get down there.
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well this is a new welded in system and I think blocking up the exhaust will stall out any motor. This system came from an ebay vendor in florida who makes exhausts and it all worked pretty well but one pipe. The muffler is quite long and I think it is original equipment spec and size. A funny other thing is happening though...maybe its just my imagination but there seems to be very little blue smoke anymore...while I did see it quite a bit with the old holey blown out patched up bandaided chicken wired 30 year old system that was on it. Does a proper exhaust reduce blowby and oil burning in a stude engine?
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I think you're going to have to pull the heat riser and deal with it on the bench. shouldn't be too difficult, unless you went with a single exhaust in which case you'll probably need to drop both sides. all you'll need is three exhaust gaskets and maybe some brass nuts to replace the ones that are on there if one strips (they're usually good for a couple R&Rs as long as the studs don't get too rusty.)
When you say that the weight would hit the msnifold, that worries me... makes it sound like it's installed upside down. the weight should be on the outside of the manifold, and it doesn't hit when installed correctly. If it's upside down so the weight is on the inside, that will cause an issue as the pressure of the exhaust will tend to close the valve instead of open it. But since I'd say you'll have to remove it anyway, you've got the opportunity to make it right.
good luck,
nate
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55 Commander Starlight
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55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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The top gasket surface of the heat riser may even be stamped 'top'.
Here's a picture of what Nate described:
Nate, I still say you would have made a helluva good VW tech.
Dwain G.Restorations by Skip Towne
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