Auto Trans Swap - long and short shaft

[HammondA100]

Good day,
I have a 57 Silver Hawk finishing up. It has the stock Auto Borg Warner. I have a 2nd transmission - same type but freshly rebuilt which I am buying - - same but from an Avanti and has the long nose.
Would it be better to swap out the nose housings assuming it's possible or do I need to go from a split drive shaft to a single unit?

Also this tranny doesnt have the fill cap but the boss where it could be drilled. Hummm?

Thanks for any help on this issue!

Ches in SD



Just wanting to drive my Stude in the black hills.

[JDP]

quote:Originally posted by HammondA100

Good day,
I have a 57 Silver Hawk finishing up. It has the stock Auto Borg Warner. I have a 2nd transmission - same type but freshly rebuilt which I am buying - - same but from an Avanti and has the long nose.
Would it be better to swap out the nose housings assuming it's possible or do I need to go from a split drive shaft to a single unit?

Also this tranny doesnt have the fill cap but the boss where it could be drilled. Hummm?

Thanks for any help on this issue!


Ches in SD



Just wanting to drive my Stude in the black hills.

I'd use the long tail shaft and a late drive shaft. The fill tube goes into the trans pan on late transmissions.

[r1lark]

And if it's really a Powershift from an Avanti, the shift pattern on this transmission will not match up with your original auto shift pattern. Avanti pattern is PRND21.

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[HammondA100]

"I'd use the long tail shaft and a late drive shaft. The fill tube goes into the trans pan on late transmissions."

Ugh - That's what I was afraid of. Sounds great but that option requires me to hunt down another part. But if the solid single drive shaft eliminates problems and doubt - I will go that route. THanks for the assistance.

Just wanting to drive my Stude in the black hills.

[Roscomacaw]

There may be other hinderances to address here - like floorboard clearance. Also, if you do go with the late transmission, look for a one-piece shaft that'll work in concert with whatever rear axle you have in your '57. It could be a type 27 or a 44 rear and that makes a difference in length.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[HammondA100]

That's the advice I need. Thanks for the tips.
I only feel dumb for not looking under a few later models at this while at Cedar Rapids.

I must ask though - any isues if I just switch out the nose or horn on the back of the transmission? Which would allow me to keep the shaft installed now?
It's a Dana 44.

Just wanting to drive my Stude in the black hills.

[r1lark]

quote:Originally posted by HammondA100

That's the advice I need. Thanks for the tips.
I only feel dumb for not looking under a few later models at this while at Cedar Rapids.

I must ask though - any isues if I just switch out the nose or horn on the back of the transmission? Which would allow me to keep the shaft installed now?
It's a Dana 44.

Just wanting to drive my Stude in the black hills.

A close review of the parts manuals for your two transmssions may give you the answer to whether you can swap the output housings.

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[StudeRich]

One of the issues will be having to totally disassemble the Trans. to remove the short output shaft and all of it's components, speedo drive gear, governor etc. and replace with the long tail type.

Another issue is, you will need to add a Trans. Cooler in front of the radiator, flex lines and metal cooler lines.

The best setup for the shift linkage would be to install a '63-'64 Hawk Power Shift (floor shifter assy., tower, boot and plate.

Looks like you might have gotten a bit trigger happy, but it is all fixable! [^]

StudeRich