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dallastx75208
07-25-2009, 11:15 AM
62 hawk had a 3 speed is being converted to Mustang T5. Question about the clutch linkage hook up. Will it bolt back up or do new brackets need to be made? Car is apart so I do not know how it all hooked up. I am using the Hawk bell housing.

Alan
07-25-2009, 11:34 AM
If you are using the 3 speed housing that came in it, it should hook back up. A couple of minor problems might crop up. First the throw out bearing, the stock Stude was a 1 1/2" ID. The Ford is 1 7/16", if you try to use the Stude bearing it will chew the Ford retainer up. Second check that the pilot bearing is supporting the end of the input shaft. Of course if you are using on of the kits sold around here all of the parts should be compatible.

dallastx75208
07-25-2009, 11:43 AM
KITS? What kit are you talking about? I did not know they made a kit. My stude has a 3 speed now and is being converted to Mustang T5.
Who has this kit?
Not sure I understand about using the 3 speed housing.

quote:Originally posted by Alan

If you are using the 3 speed housing that came in it, it should hook back up. A couple of minor problems might crop up. First the throw out bearing, the stock Stude was a 1 1/2" ID. The Ford is 1 7/16", if you try to use the Stude bearing it will chew the Ford retainer up. Second check that the pilot bearing is supporting the end of the input shaft. Of course if you are using on of the kits sold around here all of the parts should be compatible.

WCP
07-25-2009, 02:03 PM
As they say, "there are a couple of ways to skin a cat". The kit appproach is probably the easiest. The other approach is to modify your bell housing by having ears welded to provide mounts for the upper 2 trans mounting bolts. The lower 2 will match your bell housing. The trans input bearing retainer will have to be modified to fit snuggly into the bell housing receiver and shortened some to provide clearance for the clutch friction plate. As pointed out the throwout bearing will be sloppy on the carrier but can be sleeved to reduce the slop. I used a short section of brass sink drain pipe peened into position on the bearing. If you go this route, you can use the Mustang pilot bearing, Napa #B65174, by pressing out the needle bearing from the steel carrier, and pressing that into the crank end after removing the bronze bearing. As I recall, this bearing goes in almost flush with the crank end face. BTW, this bearing is identical to that in the tail section for the alternator except that it is open ended. The seal goes toward the flywheel as it is prelubed. The clutch linkage will be the same as you presently have with both conversion methods.

Alan
07-25-2009, 02:48 PM
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g171/artcloud/HousingAdapter.jpg

This is a truck housing but the bolt pattern is the same.

Dave Bates
07-25-2009, 02:54 PM
Dan Giblin makes the kit.Sorry,can't find his number or address.

dallastx75208
07-25-2009, 03:47 PM
I went the rout by having the bellhousing changed for the upper trans mounting. Will the clutch linkage still bolt on just as it came off? I have also read some place that I will need to shorten the drive shaft.
Thanks for your infor. I have forward it on to the person doing the work. I will be there next week to help with the job.
Any other infor on this will help a lot.

quote:Originally posted by WCP

As they say, "there are a couple of ways to skin a cat". The kit appproach is probably the easiest. The other approach is to modify your bell housing by having ears welded to provide mounts for the upper 2 trans mounting bolts. The lower 2 will match your bell housing. The trans input bearing retainer will have to be modified to fit snuggly into the bell housing receiver and shortened some to provide clearance for the clutch friction plate. As pointed out the throwout bearing will be sloppy on the carrier but can be sleeved to reduce the slop. I used a short section of brass sink drain pipe peened into position on the bearing. If you go this route, you can use the Mustang pilot bearing, Napa #B65174, by pressing out the needle bearing from the steel carrier, and pressing that into the crank end after removing the bronze bearing. As I recall, this bearing goes in almost flush with the crank end face. BTW, this bearing is identical to that in the tail section for the alternator except that it is open ended. The seal goes toward the flywheel as it is prelubed. The clutch linkage will be the same as you presently have with both conversion methods.

WCP
07-26-2009, 01:21 PM
The clutch linkage should reassemble same as before. My conversion is on an Avanti but I don't think that will make any difference. You should have an easier job of accomodating the T5 shifter location on the Hawk, but it probably will require some tunnel modification. The driveshaft length will have to be altered. The T5 is 2 3/8" longer than a T10. Assuming your Hawk is a V8 and has the 3 spd+od, based on shaft lengths in the parts book, you will have to lengthen the driveshaft to something around 55 1/4", centre to centre. You are going to have to take some measurements. The T5 case is 24" long (24.7" including the output shaft). Measure the 3spd and adjust the shaft length by the difference in case lengths.

dallastx75208
07-27-2009, 07:42 AM
Thaks for all your help. I will be heading to St. Louis to start work on it. May have more questions.

quote:Originally posted by WCP

The clutch linkage should reassemble same as before. My conversion is on an Avanti but I don't think that will make any difference. You should have an easier job of accomodating the T5 shifter location on the Hawk, but it probably will require some tunnel modification. The driveshaft length will have to be altered. The T5 is 2 3/8" longer than a T10. Assuming your Hawk is a V8 and has the 3 spd+od, based on shaft lengths in the parts book, you will have to lengthen the driveshaft to something around 55 1/4", centre to centre. You are going to have to take some measurements. The T5 case is 24" long (24.7" including the output shaft). Measure the 3spd and adjust the shaft length by the difference in case lengths.

sbca96
07-27-2009, 12:00 PM
quote:Originally posted by Dave Bates

Dan Giblin makes the kit.Sorry,can't find his number or address.


Most of this applies.

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13734

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires