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63 champ carburetor issue???

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  • 63 champ carburetor issue???

    Any help would be greatly apprectiated. I have a 63 champ, in-line 6, which I posted pics of last week. It seems to me that my carburetor is going bad. I am no mechanic, but unless it is really warm outside, I can not start it without first spraying some starter fluid into the air filter on the carb. I also tried pumping the gas as well and that does nothing. However, it seems to be getting a little worse as now it has a little more trouble than usual staying started. Once warmed up she is fine. It is a Carter, and if helpful I can post the model number and other info off of it. Do I need a new carb? Can I just get a rebuild kit? If so where could I get one and how much might it cost. Thanks for all helpful Stude knowledge.

  • #2
    The carb is the last piece in the fuel delivery system You don't say how much work the mechanics of the truck got so...

    Did the tank get cleaned? is there crud swirling around the intake?

    Is there a filter and is it new?

    Before worrying about the carb, be sure these questions are cleared.

    Bebuild kits for almost all Studebaker carbs are available through our vendor system. Click here for a major list of vendors http://www.studebakervendors.com/



    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    (Under Construction 617 hrs.)
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

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    • #3
      Jeremy; Carter made a lot of really Great Carbs. over many years, unfortunately this RBS Model with the round tin float bowl was NOT one of them!

      These have always been Trouble with a Capitol T! [xx(]

      Because of the reverse throttle pull, to put a better '62 Stude. Carter AS model on, you have to reverse the hole you use in the throttle bellcrank to reverse it from "Push" to "Pull" to use one. [:0]

      If you are very lucky and this one is in good shape (low mileage), you MAY be able to re-build it, and yes Studebaker Vendors have Carter RBS Repair Kits.

      StudeRich
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        Thanks for the help so far, although most of this info goes well over my head im afraid. I might be easier for me just to take it somewhere and have some people look at it. I do know that the butterfly piece at the top of it does not open and shut, it just stays open. But thank you both for the input

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        • #5
          If you do, take a copy of this Topic with you, and a Copy of the Studebaker Truck Shop Manual.
          A better plan is to send it to someone in SDC who KNOWS this stuff! [:0]

          That would be Jon & Mike Myer at Myers Studebaker in Ohio 740 674 4897 or Dave Thibeault in MA 978 897 3158. [^]

          StudeRich
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            Pour a little gas (not starting fluid) in carb and see if it starts. If it doesn't you might want to check check compression.
            After pouring gas leave throttle closed when you crank it.

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            • #7
              I see the possibility of two things the butterfly you say is stuck open sounds like the choke, you need to free it up so you get less air in to start cold. the second thing would be the accellerator pump is dried out. The way to check the choke is to hold your hand flat over the carb. and try to start it. Helps to have a second person to help.
              The second problem, look down the top of carb. and see if a stream of gas squirts inside the carb when you pump the throttle. Hope this helps

              studedick from the lower Ozarks

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              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by Dick Clemens

                I see the possibility of two things the butterfly you say is stuck open sounds like the choke, you need to free it up so you get less air in to start cold. the second thing would be the accellerator pump is dried out. The way to check the choke is to hold your hand flat over the carb. and try to start it. Helps to have a second person to help.
                The second problem, look down the top of carb. and see if a stream of gas squirts inside the carb when you pump the throttle. Hope this helps
                Dick's explanation is what I would offer. The only thing I would add is that when you press down on the gas pedal when it is cold, the choke (top butterfly) should snap shut. It will then open as the engine warms up because of a thermostatic coil on the side of the carb (a small round black plastic cover). If the choke isn't closing, you can loosen the three screws holding the plastic piece and rotate it to get more tension on the choke. There should be marks on the side of the choke housing to indicate the center setting. Studebakers I own or have owned are very hard to start if the choke doesn't close.



                Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

                Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
                '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by jeremyprice11

                  Thanks for the help so far, although most of this info goes well over my head im afraid. I might be easier for me just to take it somewhere and have some people look at it. I do know that the butterfly piece at the top of it does not open and shut, it just stays open. But thank you both for the input
                  quote:Originally posted by studerich
                  If you do, take a copy of this Topic with you, and a Copy of the Studebaker Truck Shop Manual.
                  A better plan is to send it to someone in SDC who KNOWS this stuff!

                  That would be Jon & Mike Myer at Myers Studebaker in Ohio 740 674 4897 or Dave Thibeault in MA 978 897 3158.

                  StudeRich
                  Whilst it might be a good learning experiance to attempt a rebuild on your own, I would recommend you call either Mike or Jeff. These are really great fellas who will take care of you. They will even likely be able to help you get a new carb if need be. Neither is the cheapest, then again, neither is the most expensive. Both are really, by far, the best help available![^] I wouldn't even be surprised if Jeff or Mike or even both have already e-mailed you.


                  Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                  K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                  Ron Smith
                  Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?
                  Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                  K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                  Ron Smith
                  Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

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                  • #10
                    All this is great info. I will try all the above mentioned. You guy rock and I'll keep you posted if I find the solution. Thanks

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                    • #11
                      There's an "AS" carb on ebay right now for cheap, I'd grab it get a kit and hand carry the to RBS carb to da dump so it can't ever make anyone carberator miserable again. The "AS" carbs are bullet proof and easy to fix. Hurry.
                      Kim

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                      • #12
                        Gosh. I don't think I'd tear into that carb or replace it if all that is wrong is a non functioning choke. As 53K and Dick Clemens mentioned above, that would be the first thing I would look into...

                        LH
                        Whirling dervish of misinformation.

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