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  • engine oil

    Recently bought a 1950 Commander 2 door with 37,000 miles on it.Drained oil and have a new filter. Am looking for advice on type, brand and weight oil. Sent radiator out to be tested. Going to be recored. Gas tank in shop being cleaned and tested. Hope to do justice to a deserving car

  • #2
    A lot of people are using 15-40 delo but I am a shell rotella guy myself.

    PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

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    • #3
      The way I look at it, the cheapest oil available today is far better than the finest oils available when your car was built. There are no Mom and Pop refineries. The big guys make them and sell them under various private labels as well as their own names. The basic differences between different company's products is the additive package, but even then, they're designed to do the same thing...lubricate and protect your engine's internal parts. For areas of higher temperatures you could go with a straight 30 weight oil or simply pick a 10W-30 for year round. I don't see the point of going to synthetic oil...stick to dino stuff.

      Some get up in a tizzy about reduction is ZDDP (zinc) in today's oil formulations. It's really only a factor in high performance engines with high valve spring pressures or when breaking in a new camshaft. I don't believe either is a factor in your car. If you feel you have to worry about that, just pour in a container of STP and you're covered.

      Regular oil and filter changes is more important than what brand oil you're using. Go buy Wal Mart's house brand oil or buy Quaker State, Pennzoil, Castrol, etc., and tear the engine down after 100k miles and I doubt if you see any difference in internal wear or cleanliness.




      Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.
      Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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      • #4
        oboy. You have asked the "most frequently asked question" for this forum.

        By the way WELCOME!

        My best bet for you and the best advice I can give: Do a search on "ZDDP oil" There are many threads worth reading about the oil to use in our Studebakers.
        (by the way. zddp is a zinc blend used in older oils, for the preservation of flat tappet engines...which consists of every studebaker engine ever built, and a lack of it can cause damage over time, newer oils don't have it added anymore. Personally, I use a bottle of STP everytime I change the oil, as I have heard that it contains the proper amount of zddp for older engines)

        Good luck!




        1963 Lark, 259 V8, two-tone paint, Twin Traction. Driven often, always noticed!

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        • #5
          Hey guys,
          Thanks for the fast response. The advice is appreciated and will be followed.. I have another question.....What type of anti-freeze should be used? I may be an old timer, but I can still use a little guidance. Thanks for the help

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          • #6
            [quote]Originally posted by tutone63

            oboy. You have asked the "most frequently asked question" for this forum.

            By the way WELCOME!

            My best bet for you and the best advice I can give: Do a search on "ZDDP oil" There are many threads worth reading about the oil to use in our Studebakers.
            (by the way. zddp is a zinc blend used in older oils, for the preservation of flat tappet engines...which consists of every studebaker engine ever built


            You might note that every Volvo engine built for the past 20 years including every Volvo now sold has "flat" tappets as do many, many other current engines, and they are doing just fine on modern motor oils.

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            • #7
              I use Prestone. Some new antifreeze formulas,I have been told, will leak in the gasket areas. See what others chat back. Also, SEARCH will bring up a lot of past discussion on antifreeze and oils.

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              • #8
                Any current coolant should be fine. Stick with a glycol based coolant...the brand should be immaterial. Go with a 50-50 blend...either by mixing it yourself or by purchasing the gallons of already blended coolant. That's easier but a bit more expensive.




                Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.
                Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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                • #9
                  BTW - If you want to start flame wars on most any auto forum, ask three things...which is the best oil, the best tires, or the best wax. Any of those will start a free for all. This forum is very, very casual and friendly...you won't see much, if any cross words here. Some other auto forums are verbal combat.




                  Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.
                  Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Shell Rotella

                    Tennessee Hillbilly

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                    • #11
                      Whatever you use...put this in it:






                      1963 Lark, 259 V8, two-tone paint, Twin Traction. Driven often, always noticed!

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                      • #12
                        Hey! [:0] Don't tease the new guy!

                        '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by tutone63


                          (by the way. zddp is a zinc blend used in older oils, for the preservation of flat tappet engines...which consists of every studebaker engine ever built, and a lack of it can cause damage over time, newer oils don't have it added anymore.
                          Dick Steinkamp
                          Bellingham, WA

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                          • #14
                            I plan on using Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil
                            It has ZDDP levels comparable to older forumulated oils but is a modern oil designed for racing applications. With this oil the ZDDP additives shouldn't be needed.



                            <div align="left">John</div id="left">

                            <div align="left">'63 Avanti, R1, Auto, AC, PW (unrestored)</div id="left">
                            sigpic
                            John
                            63R-2386
                            Resto-Mod by Michael Myer

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                            • #15
                              I'll chime in here at my own risk but I know how to duck.Racing oil is excellent oil, the only drawback with using it in a street driven car is that is does not contain the proper additives to hold up under longer drain intervals as far as combating crankcase byproducts such as acids etc.. Reason being, race engines have their oil changed a lot more frequently than street driven vehicles.

                              quote:Originally posted by okc63avanti

                              I plan on using Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil
                              It has ZDDP levels comparable to older forumulated oils but is a modern oil designed for racing applications. With this oil the ZDDP additives shouldn't be needed.



                              <div align="left">John</div id="left">

                              <div align="left">'63 Avanti, R1, Auto, AC, PW (unrestored)</div id="left">
                              Frank van Doorn
                              Omaha, Ne.
                              1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                              1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                              1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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