V-8 oil leaks

[hotrodstude]

i've been hearing a lot about oil leaks on the stude v-8's.so here my question where is the problem areas? i'm getting ready to rebuild a 1956 2-barrel 289. and what is the fix if any?it's been 40 years since i owned a studebaker and do not remember any serious leakage problem with my 57 commander 259. do they make a neopream seal for the front cover and the rear main?

[StudeRich]

All of the new Gaskets that can be obtained at Studebaker Vendors or Parts Stores are the same as original factory Fel-Pro cork or fiber.

The new Rear Main Seals are copies of the original Brummer Neoprene and steel Oil Seal that always worked well when properly installed, and much better than other makes cotton rope! [^]

There are Neoprene Valve Cover Gaskets for both early 4 bolt covers and late 1960 to 1964 2 hole type.

When some engines get high mileage and have some blow-by, the timing cover felt seals have been known to leak, sometimes quite a bit. With good tight rings usually no problem, but some have modified the crank hub (machined smaller) and installed a Transmission Seal in the timing cover.

The main secret to sealing up the bottom end is to do it with the engine upside down on a engine stand, and assemble the Rear Main Seal, Oil Pan Gaskets and Timing Cover Gasket & Seal together as a set, pretty much all at once since they all interconnect with each other.
I usually use Permatex #2 on all gaskets except Head Gaskets where the Copper Spray-On type works good. and have also used Silicone Permatex Black RTV form-a-gasket for oil and water sealing and both worked for me.
Others have had different experiences, and some will not use Silicone. Never use it in contact with Gasoline, as it will dissolve.

Even with some pretty old tech. materials, you can seal them up quite well, if the bottom end is done correctly per the Shop Manual.


StudeRich

[hotrodstude]

thanks i've always used "gorilla snot" 3m weather adhesive. have had good luck with it but usually let is set up overnight.

[StudeRich]

Weatherstrip Adhesive is not Hi-Temp, I would not use it on any more than the valve covers, if you must.

StudeRich

[Chucks Stude]

Permatex Ultra-Black. Works like a dream.

[Chucks Stude]

Does it help reduce crankcase pressure to hook up a pcv system on these engines, or just add extra oil filler caps(late model valve covers)?

[Chucks Stude]

Does it help reduce crankcase pressure to hook up a pcv system on these engines, or just add extra oil filler caps(late model valve covers)?

[63larkr1]

One thing that you may look at is the distributor gasket and valley pan. It will leak and run down to appear to be a rear main leak. Cooper spray on has worked well for me, but copper is a solid and can accumulate unevenly and not seal especially with thin head gaskets.
Richard

[Chucks Stude]

Mine is leaking from every, and I do mean every orifice. Front and rear seal, freeze plugs, etc etc. The engine has about .015 crankshaft end thrust. It was smoking like a pig when I got it(stuck rings), but driving it has cleared up the smoking issue. The temp gauge did not work when I got it, and it turns out it was running at 230 degrees. A new radiator fixed that. Don't know how much damage all of that heat did to the engine. I am accumulating parts and ideas to do an engine tear down. Haven't torn down a Stude since college days(1967), and just want to have the latest info. Runs fine, but needs a rebuild.

[StudeRich]

Yes Chuck, converting an earlier V-8 to 1964 type PCV and oil capped valve covers does seem to help, and reduces oil blowing out of the single filler pipe oil cap, it seems to be drawn out by the fan air flow.

StudeRich