frame coming off 1961 hawk

[studelover]

I am now ready to remove the frame from my 1961 hawk, aside from the bolts I see in the floor are there any other bolts I need to look for? two in trunk rear floor four in the floor inside the tub are there any others?[8D]

Studebakers forever!

[klifton1]

4 In the batwing, 2 in the front rear spring hinger, 2 in the 2 brkts. that are riveted to the frame.
Klif

55 Speedster
42 Champ Coupe

[41 Frank]

Some cars have one above the rear axle also, in the middle,my Lark does anyway.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Do you have a service manual and a body catalog?
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by studelover

I am now ready to remove the frame from my 1961 hawk, aside from the bolts I see in the floor are there any other bolts I need to look for? two in trunk rear floor four in the floor inside the tub are there any others?[8D]

Studebakers forever!

[studelover]

Yes I have a body manual, chasis manual and master parts catalog. I need to talk to a person that has done it. A book is a book it cannot tell me what to expect.

Studebakers forever!

[KGlowacky]

I don't have a 61 Lark but I did pull the body off my 56 wagon. Here's a tip , after you think ypu have all the bolts out, rock the body back and forth and break her loose. Then you can lift it off via whatever means you decide on. Many people make the mistake of going right to lifting the body and find out a bolt was missed and put way to much pressure on the corners and break something that needed to be disconnectd. Also count the rubber shims at each point of contact and bag them accordinlly. Good Luck

[studelover]

thanks, that what I needed to know there are so many things unseen I did not know where to look,under may frame on the passenger side there is a body support rail that is badly rusted can these be unbolted?

Studebakers forever!

[ROADRACELARK]

If the "body support rail" you refer to is the one that comes off of the main frame rail and goes out to the door hindge pillar (aka,"the A pillar"), yes that one can be unbolted. If you are refering to one that is part of the body, I would say no, it would need to be cut out and a replacement welded in. Hope this helps.

Dan Miller
Atlanta, GA

[img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
Road Racers turn left AND right.

[Jeff_H]

My recollection is there are:

1 pair in back corners of trunk, bolts/nuts

1 pair under rear window by trunk hinges, thread into frame

2 pair under the back seat: One threads into frame and the other is a bolt/nut under the car

2 pair under front edge of back seat (??): One is a really long bolt, not sure if there was a 2nd bolt. It was 6 yrs ago.

1 pair under the front seat. Thread into the frame. Think these go through the seat track reinforcement plate....

2 pair either side of the driveshaft tunnel. I bolt/nut under car and the other threads in from the top.

1 pair on the firewall braces. A long bolt with huge washer goes through the frame.

My '53 does not have the "batwing" cross member mentioned so no advice there. I think it bolts on and is not part of either the body or frame.

As said, keep track of the rubber shims and any other washers. The ones that thread into the frame are especially a pain since they are fine thread and a good chance the nut welded to the inside of the frame breaks loose and spins[}]. If that happens, I think these were generally located over a big drain hole on the bottom and you can get a small locking pliers though to grab it. I'd suggest soaking with penetrating oil and then heating those up red before anything to break the rust bond.

From the picture you posted your car looks like the floor and possibly the A pillar are pretty rusted. You may want to consider tack welding some angle iron across the door openings to keep the A pillar from moving in case the rust is bad enough things could move when you separate the body/frame.

I did that with my car and didn't take the body off until I had it fixed in place (a pain to work on no doubt!). My frame had holes in not only the bottom plate, but the sidewalls in some spots too so I was afraid IT would collapse w/o the body to brace it and vice versa. I had 2 sets of angle iron going from the A pillar to the B and a long piece laid across the trans tunnel to keep it from moving in/out there.

I've pulled parts off a couple junkyard cars were the A pillar was completely loose and the door fell on the ground at the back when it was opened. I am not sure HOW a person could ever get that fixed if it happened since everything would be out of alighnment. I can imagine a lot of trial and error with turnbuckles tho[V]

Good Luck!

Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

[DEEPNHOCK]

Give Ray Ficthorn a call. He's done a lot of '61's from the bare frame up. He's in the roster, and in the web-ring. He goes by Studeman here IIRC..
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by studelover

Yes I have a body manual, chasis manual and master parts catalog. I need to talk to a person that has done it. A book is a book it cannot tell me what to expect.
Studebakers forever!

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

[KGlowacky]

The bat wing has 4 bolts on each side on the car. Most of the time it is easier to just cut these off with a cutting wheel then to try to unbolt them.