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BY NOON TOMORROW ! ! !! ! !

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  • BY NOON TOMORROW ! ! !! ! !

    Well, my "50" as of about noon today is a deep metallic red, inside and out. The painter and I had always planned on his buffing it. However, it looks great. No orange peel, no dust that I can see nor other imperfections.

    BUT, I am still wondering if I should go ahead and have it buffed. He will need to know by noon tomorrow as he will either start buffing or I will need to bring it home so he will have the bay available for other jobs.

    I plan to look at it in the sunshine outside tomorrow to see if it looks as good as it did, inside today.

    I would like to hear from those who have had experiences with doing it or not doing it.

    Some concerns I have[]:
    It is very shiny with some new type clear coat from NAPA-will it get dull sooner if it is left alone or if it is buffed? It will be garage kept.

    Will buffing it now point out imperfections that need attention which otherwise might not show up for some time.

    Jimmie
    Orleans, Indiana


    1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA
    sigpicJimmie
    Orange County, Indiana
    1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

  • #2
    Color sanding and than buffing will give the paint more depth.I've always had it done on my cars. It depends on what you prefer. As it is however it will still retain gloss indefinitely, unlike the original non clearcoat finish. Just my opinion.Your car,your choice.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      Looks great? No orange peel, no dust? People pray for that. Don't touch it.

      Comment


      • #4
        If it looks good, no trash in paint as you stated, glossy, why remove paint by sanding (wet) & buffing.
        Enjoy it & if later you feel it need the "extra effort" you can always do it in the future.

        LOUIS
        289 Cruiser

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by jnormanh

          Looks great? No orange peel, no dust? People pray for that. Don't touch it.

          I agree. Buffing is abrading and removing paint. I know of no automaker who sprays to "buff" later. Do it right the first time and you're done. Buffing a good finish just provides an opportunity to screw up a good job. Most buffing is done to improve a bad job. If it looks as good as you say, you are way ahead of the game...congratulations!

          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
          SDC member since 1975
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            I always thought that it was wise to let the paint cure for a good 6 months before color sanding or buffing anyway. You can always have it done. I would leave it alone until a later date even if it needed the buffing.

            ErnieR




            On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

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            • #7
              Jimmie, if you fell it looks nice in the shop you will like it more outside in the natural light!

              Joseph R. Zeiger
              Joseph R. Zeiger

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              • #8
                As the others said, don't bother. If the gloss is right and there's no runs or dirt, no sense spending the time and money. It's become popular to do it no matter what, but I never have if it's right. Put it together and enjoy. In 40 years when somebody wants to buff it or spot it in, they'll thank you!

                Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
                Parish, central NY 13131






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                • #9
                  If it ain't broke, Don't fix it! NT


                  Neil Thornton
                  Hazlehurst, GA
                  '57 Silver Hawk
                  '56 Sky Hawk
                  '51 2R16 dump truck
                  Many others.

                  Neil Thornton

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                  • #10
                    Look at it under the flourescent lights in the shop, and as Bige states, the longer you wait to color sand and buff, the harder the paint is, also a LOT less chance of "die-back" after it's buffed. If you decide to buff it, LOTS of soapy water and 1200- 1500 grit paper. Do ONE panel at a time, and get it the way you want it. then move to the next one.

                    Jim
                    "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                    We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                    Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                    As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                    their Memorials!

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                    • #11
                      I stopped at the body shop 15 years ago after my Met was painted red with single stage Delstar. I was blown away with how great it looked and my body man looked at me like I was an idiot. He told me to come back tomorrow when he was buffing it out. After 15 years it is still a head turner at shows. As stated earler, I think the buffing brought out the depth of the shine. Now base/clear is a different animal, but the next two cars he did were both base clear and he sanded and buffed both of these. The paint on my Speedster looks pretty good. Maybe your new clear is something different and is designed to shine without buffing. If your body man knows what he is doing and is handy with a buffer and wants to buff it out, I'd let him have at it.
                      Bill
                      http://www.rustyrestorations.org/index.php
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by clarkwd

                        I stopped at the body shop 15 years ago after my Met was painted red with single stage Delstar. I was blown away with how great it looked and my body man looked at me like I was an idiot. He told me to come back tomorrow when he was buffing it out. After 15 years it is still a head turner at shows. As stated earler, I think the buffing brought out the depth of the shine. Now base/clear is a different animal, but the next two cars he did were both base clear and he sanded and buffed both of these. The paint on my Speedster looks pretty good. Maybe your new clear is something different and is designed to shine without buffing. If your body man knows what he is doing and is handy with a buffer and wants to buff it out, I'd let him have at it.
                        Bill
                        Thanks to all those who have taken time to comment. It seems that most agree with leaving it as is, with the suggestion that if it needs it later, it can be done then[^]. I will llook at it again tomorrow and make my final decision.

                        Thanks again,

                        Jimmie
                        Orleans, Indiana



                        1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA
                        sigpicJimmie
                        Orange County, Indiana
                        1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

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                        • #13
                          You might also want to consider the cost of cutting and buffing it against the gain. It WILL look nicer...even if it looks very nice now. To properly cut and buff a car is probably at least 15-20 hours. That's another grand or so.

                          Dick Steinkamp
                          Bellingham, WA

                          Dick Steinkamp
                          Bellingham, WA

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                          • #14
                            I've been in the body shop business since 1965. The old straight lacquer & acrylic lacquers required buffing. Dark colors especially black would "sweat back" or go greyish if buffed too soon. They would require at least 2 days drying time before you could touch them. Nowadays, the new paints offered are so superior to what we had even 15 years ago. True, the factory doesnt buff the cars after painting on the assembly line, but they are done in "inhuman conditions" by robotic arms today & baked at temperatures over 300 degrees. So extreme are the conditions that if repairs are required after assembly, they cant be duplicated, but are repaired the same as a quality local body shop would do it.
                            Letting it dry for days or even weeks wont hurt anything but will insure the complete hardening of the paint & keep it that way for as long as you care for it. Waiting time before you wax should be around 90 days. Some may say you can do it sooner, but I always lean on the safe side. You dont want to seal the "pours" but let any leftover solvents to evaporate completely. Hope this helps you make up your mind.

                            60 Lark convertible
                            61 Champ
                            62 Daytona convertible
                            63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
                            63 Avanti (2)
                            66 Daytona Sport Sedan
                            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                            64 Zip Van
                            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                            66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                            • #15
                              What Bige and 52 Ragtop said

                              101st Airborne Div. 326 Engineers Ft Campbell Ky.

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