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silverhawk
06-13-2009, 08:46 PM
Hi all,

I decided to start a new thread about my current and first big car project. Here is the original thread:http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29058 So far it has been a blast being able to finally do this.

Before


http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile019.jpg


http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile020.jpg


http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile021.jpg

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile023.jpg

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile025.jpg

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile026.jpg

Now

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile086.jpg

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile110.jpg

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile111.jpg

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Tobeputindylansfile112.jpg


The reason the front clip is a different shade is because it got in a fender bender about 5 years ago, and the rest of the car wasn't done at the time, darn it. As you can see in the pics, it gots some rust issues, but it is mainly in the floor. Sure is going to be nice when it is done though.:)[:p]

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

rusty65
06-13-2009, 09:16 PM
Go for it, my friend, looks like it's gonna be a goody!!

58PackardWagon
06-13-2009, 09:19 PM
Looks like you are using por-15 on the rust. That stuff works great. Best of luck, looking good.

57 & 58 Packards and Larks

silverhawk
06-13-2009, 10:59 PM
Thanks guys. Actually, the stuff that is black it brush on rustolium. I was thinking if I wire wheeled the spots, and if it was as good as it claimed, it should work good. What do you guys think?

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
06-13-2009, 11:22 PM
Oh yea, its awesome!

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
08-13-2009, 07:53 PM
Hi all,

Sorry I haven't updated this for awhile, actually, 2 months on the day. But here it is right now, except now the windshield and radiator are out. I now have welding tanks for my new oxy-acedalene welder, just need to fill them, and am waiting for a abrasive blaster. I decided to blast everything from the roof down, instead of a spot blast for some deeper rust, and also for the reason that way back someone repainted it with a laquer, and it is really brittle. So, with blasting it off, I would "tone" down the paint problems if it gets some paint damage. With that laquer on it now, I would have "spiderwebs" from paint cracking. Through the last few months, I have got clearance from my Dad to do a few custom asthetic touches, as it is his car. What I will do is, paint the wheels red, following the '50-60's fad, should look good against the white, put white inserts in the red dash, where the glove box is, and where the gauge's are, and possibly put in a trunk release lever, just for we don't have to keep unlocking it to get in. I'd do that with a 2nd hood release lever, that would either be void of script, or flip it over and engrave "trunk" or something. I am also trying to talk him into a engine mod, crafting a cold air iduction for the OHV 6, using his as a test bed. It would be pretty uniqe, and its already slightly modified with dual headers and a mechanical choke, coming from a single barrel Holley carb.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/studebakerstuff133.jpg

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

N8N
08-13-2009, 08:20 PM
I believe white inserts in the dash are correct, are they not?

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

sweetolbob
08-13-2009, 08:32 PM
Dylan

A great start. The lark is a nice choice to start with.

A pretty solid car with enough issues to provide a learning experience.

You will experience the pride of saying, "I did that Myself"

This is exactly how most of us got started in the hobby.

Keep at it.

Bob

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/P1000416.jpg?t=1227109182

4961Studebaker
08-13-2009, 08:46 PM
nothing like progress in a project.

Keep the pics coming. And enjoy/learn, and vision what you want during the whole process.
Most of all, have fun and learn from mistakes.

ChopStu
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q14/kkad0711/IMG_5406-1.jpg

silverhawk
08-13-2009, 09:58 PM
Thanks guys, this indeed is a learning experiance. I've wanted to do this for years, and did enough homework to know kinda what to do, but that isn't even close to actually doing it, and I wouldn't trade it for the world. N8N, I don't know if it was available in '62, but it was in '61, like my wagon. This dash was a solid color, as is every other '62 I see. I hope they did it, cause I love the look of the contrasting color.

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Warren Webb
08-13-2009, 11:03 PM
Nice work Dylan! If I may put in my two cents worth in regards to using POR 15. That stuff is bulletproof, as long as its not exposed to the sun. I strongly advise using it in areas such as the rear fenders where they contact the body & likewise on the same areas of the fenders too. When you remount the fenders prior to painting, use a liberal amount of body seam sealer, letting it "oooze" out, then wipe it level to have a nice factory type seam. I use either 3M or Auveco (not sure of the spelling there)with good results. Keep up the good work! I bet your Dad is proud now & can only imagine his feeling of pride when your done!

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

silverhawk
08-14-2009, 10:40 AM
Thanks Mr.Webb, also thanks for the tip, I wasn't quite sure what I was going to do there.

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

StudeRich
08-14-2009, 04:45 PM
quote:Originally posted by N8N

I believe white inserts in the dash are correct, are they not?

Actually NO, they are not. Only the 1961 Lark as Dylan later said, have the White glove box and Instrument panel which does look very sharp! [^]

I would modify it in a heartbeat, because of the huge improvement. This was just another of Studebaker's "change it to make it look new" things, like the other makes did. Usually for the better, but not always. :(

This change was not so noticeable because the "popular" models; Daytona and Cruiser did not have it. They had Walnut simulated woodgrain finish lacquer that rusted from beneath very easily.

StudeRich

StudeRich
08-14-2009, 04:56 PM
quote:Originally posted by silverhawk

/Cut/and possibly put in a trunk release lever, just for we don't have to keep unlocking it to get in. I'd do that with a 2nd hood release lever, that would either be void of script, or flip it over and engrave "trunk" or something./Cut/

OR, you could buy the '62 Lark Taxi Trunk handle that lots of people bought from ebay thinking they were getting a rare C & K Trunk Handle Assy. and you might get one cheap or from SASCO. It has the same twist knob as a '54-'55 instead of just a lock cyl. so the trunk can be latched in the locked OR unlocked position. in the '59-'64 Body Parts Catalog, it's the "Y1 model". [:0] [:p]

StudeRich

silverhawk
08-14-2009, 06:10 PM
Thanks for the tip, I'll look into possibly doing that.

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

N8N
08-14-2009, 06:21 PM
OK Rich, I'll defer to your knowledge. I thought that it was correct and I know that I'd researched it back in the day and painted the dash that came out of my '62 Daytona (had been burned on the pass side) wrinkle black with white inserts. I didn't remember at this late date if that was a "correct" color scheme save for the wrinkle finish or if I'd deliberately decided to deviate from factory in the interest of being cool. I guess it must have been the latter :)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

silverhawk
08-17-2009, 03:33 PM
Hey guys,

Do you know what color's the engine is supposed to be, besides the block, heads, and valve covers? I am doing initial painting on the engine before sand blasting, for I don't have a ton of grease and oil getting washed into the new fire wall paint later.

Thanks,

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

dong
08-17-2009, 05:49 PM
Dylon, Congrats on undertaking a daunting task, good luck, take your time and don't worry about making mistakes. Most of the time they will be easily correctible, it's how you learn, and anybody that can say they haven't made mistakes are the people who haven't done anything. As for the colors, the sheet metal under the hood is body color, the engine block black, valve covers yellow, dipstick end and fan orange, radiator black. master cylinder is (I think)cad plated. These are colors for the V8, I think the 6 is the same, if not someone will correct me. One bit of advice, when you sandblast, start gently, either lower air pressure or a greater distance or both. Sand can warp, distort or pit the metal if you get too aggresive, Have fun

Don

silverhawk
08-17-2009, 08:04 PM
Thanks Don!

Dylan Wills

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
09-29-2009, 06:16 PM
Ok, time for a update. The car is still waiting for welding, still haven't filled the tanks. Got a NOS trunk lid on, and more sanding and rust removal done. Also got to get some POR-15 for some spots, and have to finish painting the engine area. I am also still waiting on a abrasive blaster, I changed my mind about how much I will do, but a few spots need it still. I am also going to be crafting a custom air cleaner for the car. It will have touches of those vintage Olds ones, with the scoops on the side, it will be pretty neat when done. Thats pretty much all that has been going on, pretty slow right now. Got some more parts for it besides the NOS trunk lid, and I have painted the front of the frame rails, radiator, and core support. Really looking forward to getting it back together for final sanding, priming, and painting. Has any of you guys painted door jambs with the doors on? Or should I do it with them off? That is what I was planning of doing, but if I could do just as good as a job with them on, I might do that.

Dylan Wills

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile100.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

fstst56
09-29-2009, 08:48 PM
Looks like you've already got the doors off,
so I'd paint the jambs before I put the doors
back on. Let them get good and dry and then
cover them while putting the doors back on to
prevent scratching, IMHO.

silverhawk
09-30-2009, 12:22 AM
Ok, thanks for the input.

Dylan Wills

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile100.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
09-30-2009, 07:35 PM
Could someone post some pics of other white '62 larks? This one was origially a off white, and my dad seems ok with that, as he doesn't want a bright white. To me, well, it looks a bit "off". I want something a bit brighter, but not to bright. I know I'm a little ahead of myself asking already, but its getting closer to needing it in some area's, for I can put stuff like doors and front fenders on for the final painting. Thanks!

Dylan Wills

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile100.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Invalid User Name
09-30-2009, 07:58 PM
Dylan, your progress is impressive. When you get your blaster be sure to use it with care. First - use a respirator, not a mask. Silicosis is no fun. Second - go lightly. You can deform metal with a good solid blast. Third - remove all glass from the blasting area. You will be amazed at how far away you can "glaze" your glass with a good blaster. Best of luck.

Doug

Venice, Florida
1950 Champion 9G F1

Steve T
09-30-2009, 08:34 PM
Hi Dylan--

Saw your request for pix of white '62 Larks...here are four:


Daytona HT
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll260/StudeSteve/Some%20Other%20Studebakers/K2D329E077_1000534.jpg


Wagon
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll260/StudeSteve/SDC%20Crossroads%20Zone%20Meet%202009/K2D32016CD_1001355.jpg


4dr sedan (with a '63 4dr rat rod for company)
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll260/StudeSteve/SDC%20Crossroads%20Zone%20Meet%202009/K2D32016CD_1001492.jpg


Daytona convertible
http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll260/StudeSteve/SDC%20Crossroads%20Zone%20Meet%202009/K2D3201631_1000033.jpg


HTH

S.

silverhawk
09-30-2009, 08:34 PM
Thanks for the tips! It's going to be my first time blasting, little nervous, and way excited to try it out!

Dylan Wills

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile100.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

StudeDave57
09-30-2009, 10:08 PM
Where on Earth did you ever find an NOS deck lid, I wonder... ;)

We're glad to hear that those parts (and car) went to a good home.

Do us proud!!!



StudeDave '57 [8D]
Ferndale, WA

'54 Commander Regal 4dr 'Ruby'
'57 Parkview 'Betsy' (she's a 2dr wagon)
'57 Commander DeLuxe 2dr 'Baby'
'57 Champion Custom 2dr 'Jewel'
'58 Packard sedan 'Cleo'
'65 Cruiser 'Sweet Pea'

silverhawk
09-30-2009, 11:49 PM
Thanks for the pictures, I appreciate it. I noticed we posted at the same time, so I missed it before. Dave, bet you can't guess,lol.:) And I'm trying my best, I think you guys will aprove.

Dylan Wills

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile100.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
11-03-2009, 08:05 PM
Ok, a little update on the car. Things are going pretty slow, but I have the block painted, and a few other parts. I'm stripping the valve cover, and working on painting accesories now. Still have to drop the gas tank and fuel line, for I can weld floor pans with a good conciense, and to fix a few parts in the trunk, that was under the spare tire bracket plate. I'll try to post some pics of progress soon.

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBe-1.jpg

'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 11:06 AM
Well, progress has been really slow lately. The valve cover has been stripped to bare metal, but haven't worked on it lately. :( The goal is this winter is to get all my welding done, and then paint the body tub, with rear quarters and trunk lid installed. Here's basicly what it looks like right now.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/shop011.jpg


Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBells.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

55champion
12-19-2009, 11:20 AM
Looking good .Keep going and it will all come together one day.
Looks like you have a great place to do the work.

silverhawk
12-19-2009, 11:40 AM
Yea, its a pretty good place. We got a 3 bay garage, one my car is in, one our barracuda will be in, and then this bay(wich was designed as a RV spot, but we will never get one of those) for this project. This area will be more for body and interior stuff, and mechanicals will probley happen in this bay as well for this car, not that it needs much in that regard. Then, after this is done, the barracuda will come in, then I get to do it. :D I got plans for that one as well,LOL!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Watcomcountyminimeet09andJamesBells.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
01-17-2010, 11:34 PM
Well, things are FINALLY picking up again. I got the welding gas for my oxy-acedaline welder, and got some other materials as well. :D I hope to get some stuff on the floors done this week, and get the rear quarter panels installed. I'm removing the rocker panels, as some rust got past the factory sealent, and I'd rather be safe than sorry,LOL! I hope to get some pics of the progress soon!

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

sweetolbob
01-18-2010, 10:03 AM
Dylan

Glad you are back at it.

And be sure to keep the pictures coming.

Just a word of warning when using an oxy-acetylene torch, Be sure you stick around for a while to be sure things have cooled down after using it. You never know what flammables lurk in unexpected spots. A lark/Barracuda are not pretty after a fire.

Good luck

Bob

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/P1000416.jpg?t=1227109182, http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/031-1.jpg?t=1254424814

63larkcustom
01-18-2010, 10:05 AM
Very nice progress Dylan. That will be a nice one.

Dare to be different... Drive your Studebaker!!

silverhawk
01-18-2010, 01:27 PM
Thanks guys!

Mr.Strue, thanks for the reminder! We've caught one part out stude on fire (Don't ask) with the torch before, thats nerve wracking! Exspecially when it was up around back of a greasy, oily engine......

Today I've fired up the grinder with a 4" wire wheel, and have got some area's preped for welding in patches. Now I just need to fit the patches and front floor pans, and pin them in place. I hope to do that today, as well as drop the gas tank and fuel line as a saftey precaution, and we will probably seal the tank while its out. :D

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
02-01-2010, 12:02 AM
Well, I still haven't got any pics yet, but we have got some welding done! we got a rear corner in, a front floor pan almost all the way in too! I ran out of welding wire for the gas welder, so its on hold for awhile. I am almost ready to mount the passenger side rear quarter panel as well! Yahoo! Can't wait to see that sexy panel back on,LOL!! (If you haven't noticed, I'm HUGE fan of those rear quarters!!!!)

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

woodysrods
02-01-2010, 01:20 AM
Hi Dylan
Love to read about someone with enthusiasm getting into old cars. Don't be afraid to go all the way, as you will regret it if you don't and truely it is way less work in the long run...and less money too. you may think not, but trust me it is! I have built well over a 100 cars from the ground up. Wanted to tell you to sandblast as soon as I started reading your threads. Was happy when I got half way through to hear that you were going to blast, but sad when I read on to hear that that you were concidering blasting less and that you were going to do it yourself??? My son thought that with his car too, and all that he learned from that experience was that he should stay in school so that he would never have to sandblast for a living.
Some professional suggestions for you:
Strip the whole car apart (take lots of digital pictures of even the smallest things) Punch mark everything left and right. . = Driver side .. = Passenger side.
Don't be in a hurry to paint things! Paint is the last thing you do before reassembly (you are just waisting time & paint)
Don't attempt to sandblast the car yourself (nobody will care) as someone else said , you "can" do lots of sheetmetal damage.
Sandblast everything! "If you don't you will forever wish you had"
Sandblasting is ther best money you can spend and will save you sooo
much time and money down the road. Have a professional blaster "white" blast all of your chassis componants, so that they are "paint ready"
Blast your entire body 45 gallon drums with 4x4's if you don't want to rig up a roticery, for the underside.
Next, do all your welding. And I do hope by your statement that you were waiting for wire for your welder, means that you have a MIG welder. If not? Get one!! oxy acetalene welding on sheetmetal is totally out of the question. Unless your real name is Bill Hines.
I think that should get you started.
I have a lot more knowledge (I have learned from 42 years of buiding cars) that I would love to share with you as you go along.
So keep us posted!
And Good Luck with your project.
PS. I am at about the same stage as you are with my latest personal Studebaker project. Maybe we can keep each other inspired.
Brian

Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

silverhawk
02-01-2010, 07:41 PM
Hey Mr.Woods, I'm not afraid of this project, although my dad is a little nervous that it won't get back together before I move out,LOL! As for the sand blasting, I've taken this car soooo far down, that I really didn't need to that much, so I didn't, although some of the small parts may be done. And the reason I want to do it myself is I want the experiance of doing things myself. If I had the equipment, I'd do everything on cars from engine machine work, to mounting the tires,LOL! The car is just about completely apart, but we aren't removing the body from the frame, as my dad doesn't want a show car (So, I've decided he is going to have a really really nice driver! Hahahahahaha!). Just about all the rust is taken care of already, and now we are installing patches in the floor, and then I will be installing different and better (after I've taken all the dents out, 1 down, 1 to go!) rocker panels. I'm using a oxy-acedaline welder for ALL the work, but taking the time to practice, and useing modern heat sinking compounds for welding, to keep warpage at a minimum. We have like 6-10 little (like touch with a rod and your done kinda small) on exterior panels, which I'll probably braze to keep less heat on. If the old timers did it, (I was taught by one of the best!) I can do it with some practice,LOL!! As for the paint, I'm using the primer to seal up work I have done, and use as marker paint when block sanding. I've settled on the primer I'll be using, and will shoot the body tub with it when done with the body work. Then, I'll be painting the door jambs, inside of trunk lid, and ALL of the under hood sheet metal, then putting it all back together agian. Then I'll shoot the whole car, and got a paint booth in mind already, for a really good price too! (Its a privatly owned one. [8D] I'll be redoing the dash, sun visors, and making my own headliner and rear package shelf, windlace, and fitting my own carpet after that. For the seats (and maybe some help on the headliner), my dad met a person at church that does upholstery for a hobby, and sounds like we will do it together! Yahoo!

Yes, I'm interested in keeping each other inspired! Would you like to shoot me a email, and we can talk through that?

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

woodysrods
02-02-2010, 12:23 AM
Please! Please! Please! rethink the brazing! Or you will be very very sorry. Once upon a time when I was a young man (building my first "Custom" car) I had a bodyman friend that told me that brazing on the quarter panel patches and gas door filler patch, was "just fine because thats the way old bodymen had been doing it for years" even though I had already decided to go with this newly invented Mig welding that I had only heard about. Well that was 32 years ago and I still own that 49 Ford Custom Coupe, but the areas that we brazed only stayed hidden for the fist 4 years. After that you could see the repairs from 50 feet away. As I liked to drive the car and put over 100,000 miles on it. This meant taking it out in the sun! Brass expands and contracts at a much different rate than steel, bodyfiller, and paint. Thus it pushes the filler and paint in and out like skin, but like skin it doesn't spring back as fast as it gets older and you end up with bubbles. These are the facts. I love to read about the new area of Street Rodders (young with tatoos and lip rings) who think that the bodywork on their "Rat Rods" should be done with lead. Even though they know nothing about the acids released from the lead forever and how short the life of their paint jobs will be. They didn't invent bondo because lead was Great! Methods & products are usually changed for the better. This is especially true when it come to Brass, Lead, & Oxy Acetalene welding. Bad, Bad, Bad!
I know it is hard to change your mind about something that you have thought about for a long time. But some of us have already been to the school of hard knocks and have payed the price so those who follow won't have to.
PS. I am just an old car "Friend" not a "Mister"
Brian


Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

silverhawk
02-02-2010, 01:44 AM
Oooo,thanks! I didn't think of that aspect with the brazing! And as for the oxy-acedaline welding, I still can't get away from it, sorry! I have seen original customs and rods done extremely well, with all from a oxy-acedaline. It also presents a challenge, which I am accepting. My personal beliefs on the oxy-acedaline welding is that for alot of things, its is great! ONLY IF you take the time to practice, get to know it, and are taking nessacary precautions for heat and possibly catching something on fire,LOL! Now, I DO have a nice older Lincoln arc welder, but I'll primarily use it for thicker stuff, and if I want a harder weld. I don't have anything against Migs, its just the challenge of taking a route less taken, and a harder, but more rewarding for me, route. And still have a good weld, IF I did it right. Its just that IF I'm working on overcoming,LOL!

I'm not trying to repulse your advise or anything, quite the opposite is true! Its just that I know I can do almost as good, if not as good or better, weld if I take the time to learn. As Matthew Burnett said, "Young and dumb." He's probably pretty darn accurate,LOL!

Do you have any recommendations for paint guns and the like? I'm comparing equipment and prices for my first guns, as the time for painting some of the parts is getting closer. I want a HVLP gun for sure, but I don't want something that costs a fortune to get, since I will only use its so much.

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

woodysrods
02-03-2010, 12:36 AM
Well I have 10 or more paint guns, last one purchased being fairly high end. Each one has its own purpose. But, honestly I think a paint gun is a ways off in your future. I would spend my money on that mig first.*Remember! Paint is "Last"! And "it covers nothing"
Just shows off any mistakes you made underneath. A good house has to have a good foundation. Body and paint products are a whole new science all of their own. Once again, they have an order of use and
if the wrong products are used, you will end up with a short term
finish that will cost you or someone else twice as much to make it right.
I can give you specific tips for each stage from metal to final paint, but not all at once tonight.
First step is to make sure "all" of your welding is done before you even attempt to put any kind of filler on your car.
Next grind & clean the surface thouroghly with a good strong solvent or gun wash. Next cover "all" welds with a fiberglass based filler, "not" a talc based filler, like bondo. Fiberglass based fillers like Duraglass, everglass, Metal Lux, etc. "do not absorb moisture". Just in case you have any pin holes or imperfections in your welds.(They are rock hard & difficult to sand) kock them down with 40 grit then 80 grit on either a long board or an orbital. Next come the talc based fillers like bondo or feather lite etc. (much easier to sand)Sand to 280 or 320 grit. When you are down to the final stages of your body work and sanding you can use a good quality Polyester Spot Putty. This can be used on top of your first round of high build primer ( another whole chapter) to fill any pin holes or small nicks, dents, etc. that you are not happy with in your bodywork. (very easy to sand. Blocksand to 320 grit an re high build. Note second high build should be the same manufacturer, but does not have to be an etching high build. (cheaper)Note first primer must be etching high build or you will have to use a metal prep or wash primer before regular high build primer can be applied.
Remember! "NEVER" use lacquer based primers. (they absorb moisture)
Now you have two rules. No Lacquer! No Brass! This is not the 50's even though your car might be.
Good Night & Good Luck!
Brian
That is all for tonight.

Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

silverhawk
03-28-2010, 03:04 PM
Well, its been awhile since I've updated this. Been really busy with all my extra curricular activities and work lately. :( Progress is moving forward again, and my goal is to have it painted, and the body reassembled by the end of this year. :D The firewall and front fenders are almost ready for paint, and since I'm painting the car in stages; I hope to paint them soon. (Like with in the next 2 months hopefully.) About half of the floor welding is done, which is the worst parts on the car. Here's a couple pics of whats been happening lately:

This is my 2 year old sister, and she is getting pretty interested in cars! She loves to try and help with all of the cars, and pretends to drive them (Including shifting on my car!). She even has her own "tastes" for cars already; a likeing of Studebakers, and a love of Avanti's! {:O] How's that for a 2 year old!? The best way to get her to laugh and giggle is to set her in the passenger seat of a old car, and rev it up abit, or go for a drive, haha!
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Picture001-1.jpg

The rear frame section; doesn't look half bad if I say so myself. What do you guys think?


http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Picture002.jpg

I hope to remount the passenger side rear fender today. I'm waiting for a little POR-15 to dry on some hardware at the moment.

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

StudeRich
03-29-2010, 01:37 AM
Looks very good Dylan, glad to see your project is coming along!

You will have to point out the weld. I don't see any, that's gotta be GOOD!

StudeRich

silverhawk
03-29-2010, 09:55 AM
Thanks Rich!

I'll get some pictures of the floor soon, I got to dress up a weld first. It's right on the rear corner of the floor, and it up a little higher on the door pillar.

Dylan Wills
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/Tobeputindylansfile003.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
05-06-2010, 01:25 AM
Well, been awhile since I've updated this. The rear passenger fender is officially on, after some difficulties. (How in the heck they assembled this in the factory is beyond me....) I got 2 little parts to weld on the passenger side front floor now, and the replacement rocker panel is pinned in place to weld. Once I get the front suspension rebuilt, I'll put the front clip mostly back together. And once the check writer (Cough DAD cough) gets some material, I'll shoot it in a 2 part epoxy primer, paint the door jambs, and put the doors on.

I got a ultimate goal of this year to have its body painted and reassembled by the end of December. We shall see how that really works out, LOL!

Dylan Wills
Everett, Wa.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/carpet008.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Skinnys Garage
05-06-2010, 08:49 AM
quote:Originally posted by silverhawk

Well, been awhile since I've updated this. The rear passenger fender is officially on, after some difficulties. (How in the heck they assembled this in the factory is beyond me....)I know what you mean Dylan, I removed the bolts from my '62 project and the fender just sat there. After I discovered it slipped on from the front, I just had to break the "rust seal" that held it together and it came apart. I hope to get the better ones installed shortly. Keep working![8D]

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu37/mytoygarage/f893982a.jpg
Skinny
Watertown, SD

silverhawk
05-06-2010, 11:54 AM
Hahaha! Sounds like what happened to me! I had to break seam sealer as well though, ugh. :(

Dylan Wills
Everett, Wa.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/carpet008.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

prager
05-06-2010, 08:12 PM
Dylan, do you need a nos 62 speedo? Drop me a line if ya do..I have one around here somewhere..I'll dig it out if so.

Making resverations at the poor house parking lot for me and my 62 Lark..

silverhawk
05-06-2010, 11:50 PM
Email sent... [8D]

Dylan Wills
Everett, Wa.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/carpet008.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

Chantony
05-07-2010, 10:46 AM
Hey Dylan!
Fantastic to see someone young doing up a car for their father.What a wonderful gesture and I wish you all the best for the project and hope you keep up the inspiration even when things are tough.The end results and satisfaction of having done it yourself are beyond words.It's a pleasure to see the progress,so keep the pictures coming...
I have restored countless cars over the years using oxy,mig,arc and tig welders on a variety of materials.
Oxy is wonderful if you are into this method and it's great on the older vintage cars where you can get to both sides of a panel and want to do hammer welding.
I'd seriously recommend a mig as Brian suggests,even to use it for a part of your work.If you're welding half a box section for example,where you can't get to the inside of your work,then you can't beat a mig to avoid distortion.I've applied wet sponges less than half an inch away from each side of where I'm welding and the distortion has been next to zero.A nicely set up mig will penetrate the steel and not leave too much build to clean up.It's very easy to master after some practice on scrap pieces.
Something to consider about brass or brazing ...It is fine as a corner finishing weld,but as it work hardens from vibration or movement ,it can crack.Years ago,I fitted a nos rear quarter to a 63 Falcon sedan delivery and brazed the quarter to the rocker panel in two inch welds and two inch gaps,thinking it would never move.A year of harsh use on Australia's corrugated gravel roads and all the welds had cracked.I ended up removing the bronze( brass) and oxy welded it with steel.
End of problem,though these days I'd use the mig for convenience.
Hope this advice is of some use and all the best with your project.
Tony

A.C.Moisley

silverhawk
05-07-2010, 07:06 PM
Thanks for the advice! Pretty much all the welding is on the floor, so I'm too worried about bad distortion. I can cover it with carpet, so who's gonna know? LOL!!

Thanks again!

Dylan Wills
Everett, Wa.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/My%201961%20studebaker%20lark/carpet008.jpg
'61 lark deluxe 4 door wagon

silverhawk
06-01-2010, 05:17 PM
Hey guys, here is a update!

I got the passenger side all welded back up. It was my first floor replacement, so the patches and panels weren't trimmed the best. The other side will be much much nice looking though. :D The passenger side door jambs are just about ready for the final 2K epoxy primer, and paint. Then I can bolt the door back on permanently, as I'm just pinning them in place to keep them out of the way for now. I got the car turned around, ready for the new front end to go under it, yahoo! I "think" I can meet my goal of getting the body reassembled and painted by the end of December. Still lots to do, but I think I can make it.

Nelsen Motorsports
06-01-2010, 06:15 PM
You have nicer floor panels than me at least, mine are just hand bent thick guage steel and my transmission tunnel is from a 1970 Trans Am, now that is recycling.

silverhawk
06-01-2010, 06:24 PM
Haha, thanks! I recycled these of another lark, LOL!

silverhawk
09-26-2010, 12:09 AM
Well, I fell way behind my schedual this summer on the car, courtesy of work (go figure). I got the firewall painted today, and the underside of the hood. :) Got just a little more welding on the floor, and got to stitch on one more rocker panel. I would have done that today, but I was taking advantage of the warm day; as the hardener for the paint is for warm weather (I still can't believe I didn't order hardener for cooler weather when I got the paint, it's Wa. for crying out loud! LOL).

BTW, you may see a few "splots" on the paint. That would be a wonderful gift of the dried stuff on the plastic that USED to cover the engine, flaking off when I took it off while the paint was still tacky. Wonderful! I sure hope I can get those off nicely when it's cured! LOL

StudeRich
09-26-2010, 12:22 AM
OK cool, so where's the splotched paint Pic?

silverhawk
09-26-2010, 12:24 AM
Sorry! Computer had some "issues" right while I was working on the post, I didn't even think it actually posted!

So, here it is.....

http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr200/1961lark/1962%20studebaker%20lark%20project/Newpicturestoorganize056.jpg

silverhawk
12-13-2010, 01:17 AM
Well, a milestone for this car happened today. The welding is complete, and it is now solid all around for the most part. Now, I got to get the new suspension in (Hopefully next weekend!), and then all the rest of my time can be devoted to finish work. I hope to get the door jambs painted and doors installed soon; along with the exposed trunk surfaces (I'm upholstering it, so it isn't a whole lot to paint) painted soon. Once the new suspension is in, the inner front fenders will be painted, and the front fenders shall be installed. Once that happens, it shall be a half way complete car! Yahoo! Then, lots of block sanding (SOOO excited, cough cough). Pictures coming soon.....

silverhawk
03-25-2011, 05:03 PM
Pictures soon to follow, but.....

It has a new front suspension in, and the front clip minus the hood installed :D

drrotor
03-11-2013, 10:37 AM
Hi Dylan-- Still working on that '62? I live in Renton, and I'm restoring a '64 Daytona R2. I picked up a '62 Cruiser as a parts-car, and I took the drivetrain out of it, however I don't need anything else. The car could be yours free, or I'd sell you whatever you need very very cheap... it has rare dashboard with 5 gauge holes, finned brake drums, hill holder, and A/C (which I may or may not keep). Was a very interesting car... 289/ factory 4-speed! All powertrain parts going in my Daytona. Or anyone else out there need this car? No title-- paperwork lost many years ago, oregon car. BTW-- this is my first post ever as a new member. Hope I'm doing this right!

Kenny Durkee-- Renton, Wa.