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**barnlark** · 06-01-2009, 08:16 AM

I'm interested in this answer, too. My plan was just to blast the TT 44 in one piece, plugging the shaft hole, powder coat..then replace seals, bleeders and brake lines.

**Kdancy** · 06-01-2009, 08:25 AM

I'm not sure exactly what you mean, do you mean to powder coat the axles? not needed
Or do you mean the rear end housing? I strip mine bare, then powdercoat. You will need around 400 degrees to melt the coating and that means grease will become runny if left in.
??

**barnlark** · 06-01-2009, 09:20 AM

I'm sure he means the whole rear end. I was going to drain mine anyway. The temp is good info, though.

**Mike Van Veghten** · 06-01-2009, 10:48 AM

I don't think any powder coating places are going to be willing to contaminate their setups with the dirt, grease, oil and another "stuff" from a complete rear end.

You have to take it apart, the coater can sand blast it or you can have it done somewhere else. Then you eill put it into a nce clean UNCONTAMINATED spray booth and apply the powder. Then from there it will be wheeled into another uncontaminated oven and heated to about 350/375 degrees for a few minutes.

Do it right.... Take what ever you want done...apart.

Mike

**jclary** · 06-01-2009, 11:52 AM

I have sold and installed both wet paint and powder coat systems. Powder coating is great for good clean parts that can withstand temperatures of up to 450 degrees at a 15 minute dwell time in the curing oven. Powder coats require parts as clean (if not cleaner) than wet solvent paints. If oils, grease, and silicons are present, powder will fish eye just like wet paint. Powder is also subject to out-gassing and cratering. As with any electrostatic application, powder coating is also subject to Faraday cage effect just like wet electrostatic painting.If you have a good cheap source of powder coating, and he is willing to take your parts, go for it. If you are building a "trailer queen" show car that will not roll on pavement, it might be worth all the extra effort.
If it were my car, I would go for a good grade poly chassis paint.

John Clary
Greer, SC

I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
SDC member since 1975

**barnlark** · 06-01-2009, 12:01 PM

I get my parts as clean as possible, grease and rust free, then take it to the blaster, who is also the powder coating shop. John Clary, is the heat too much for an entire rear end with backing plates?

**jclary** · 06-01-2009, 12:11 PM

Some powders cure out at lower temps. I suppose it is possible to get the external areas to cure temps without harming the internals, but there are other seals to be concerned about. Your powder coater would be the better judge of cure dwell time in the oven. Some use convection ovens (best method) and others use infrared. My customers were manufacturers who painted newly made parts. I have very little experience with "Job shop" coaters.

**DEEPNHOCK** · 06-01-2009, 12:14 PM

(Please don't take my response as hostile...because it isn't)

What, are you nutz?

To powdercoat it properly, you need it stripped bare and all the tapped holes blocked off (as well as the gasket surfaces and anything else you don't want powdercoat paint on.

And once you powdercoat it, you can't mess with it, work on it, or do anything with it without the fear of chipping it.

Sure, it's tough, but it is still paint.
If you are using powdercoat as a shortcut to a shiny rear end with no maintenance, then you will eventually be disappointed.
It WILL get chipped being so close to the road.
Then what? You touch it up and then it looks like touched up powdercoat.

I'd think hard about powdercoating anything (underneath) that gets driven a lot...including wheels.
Paint it black and drive it... A lot.
Save your hard earned money for a 'Bail Out Studebaker' bumper sticker... Makes about as much sense[]...

But that's just me and I don't know very much...useful stuff
HTIH
Jeff[8D]

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**sweetolbob** · 06-01-2009, 01:03 PM

To back up Jeff's comments, a couple of my bike riding friends have been powder coating some of the removable acoutrama. They are finding a lot of chipping from road shrapnel.

Bob

**bams50** · 06-01-2009, 01:07 PM

JB, I'm with Jeff- I wouldn't recommend powdercoating ANYTHING underneath, for the reasons stated: It chips, and can't really be repaired correctly. I'd really recommend paint on all that, cheap powder-coater or not.

Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
Parish, central NY 13131

**DEEPNHOCK** · 06-01-2009, 01:20 PM

Oh, the big words we use
That does sound like a bike riding term, though..
Acoutrama....
Bike seat trama to a cooter...
(Yep... In my world words have meaning. Some I even understand).
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by sweetolbob

To back up Jeff's comments, a couple of my bike riding friends have been powder coating some of the removable acoutrama. They are finding a lot of chipping from road shrapnel.
Bob

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

**starliner62** · 06-01-2009, 01:33 PM

I just did a rear end housing for a sreet rod guy. I tried to talk him out of it but he insisted. His money!![8D] I had to outgas (heat to hotter than powdercoating temp to cook out the contaminants) the housing twice before I was comfortable enough to powdercoat it. Most of my solid colors are done between 350 an 400 degrees. The axle housing was completely stripped before I started. It still smoked like a chimney from the residue inside the axle tubes.

And Jeff, You ain't right!!![

] I want to see your dictionary!!

Jamie McLeod
Hope Mills, NC

**jlmccuan** · 06-01-2009, 03:57 PM

I've been fortunate to have been involved with powder coating for over ten years now. With the proper prep, application and cure, you'll find it does not chip any easier than liquid paints. However, spotting in repairs is very difficult, especially black, shiny surfaces. Assuming the repair right when done, the liquid repair will not age the same as the powder and after a few months you'll spot it a mile away. Even given my preference for powder, I wouldn't be prepared to sacrifice suspension parts to the inevetible damage they will get on a driver unless I was also prepared to paint the part completely over the powder with liquid when repair time came.

Another note. Not all powder is the same in formulation or quality. If anything, there is an even greater disparity than that found in liquid paints.

Jim

____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________Rabid Snail Racing

**starliner62** · 06-01-2009, 05:03 PM

Another note. Not all powder is the same in formulation or quality. If anything, there is an even greater disparity than that found in liquid paints.

Jim

How true. Being somewhat of a rookie in the powdercoating world, I have purchased some real crap. Iguess it takes trial and error to find the "right" stuff
____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________Rabid Snail Racing

[/quote]

Jamie McLeod
Hope Mills, NC

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Powder Coating Axles???

Powder Coating Axles???

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