I've been pulling apart one of the circa-1937 250 cu in President straight 8 engines for my Indy car project. The bell housing didn't come off easily because there are 3 tight-fitting alignment pins - and they were REALLy tight! The clutch came out with only a little cussing, but the lining had to be sheared since it was stuck tight to the flywheel and clutch plate. I'll scrape that off later.
Six nuts loosened and I was ready to pull off the flywheel. It almost fell on my foot when it came loose because I did not expect it to weight 48 lbs. These old engines didn't wind up fast. I may want to lighten it some.
Then there was the thin steel plate between the bell housing and the block itself. Shouldn't be a chore, only four 3/8-16 flat-head screws with great big slots. I tried all the screw drivers I own, even the humongous one, but none of them budged. No problem, I've got the hand impact driver! Well, I got two of them loose with the 3 lb hammer on the driver but the other two wouldn't budge. Tried the 5 lb hammer and was starting to tear up the slots. Decided my cheap Harbor Freight impact driver was coming apart, made the trip to Sears for a newer/better one. No joy! And the slots were getting worse.
I got out the MAPP torch and heated the heads of the screws, then squirted PB Blaster on them. Hit 'em again. More heat, more PB Blaster. I finally got # 3 loose. So, I'm wailing away on screw #4, using my 5 lb hammer and I broke the tip off the brittle tip for slotted screws. No problem, I still had the tip from the old impact driver. I backed off a little, went back with the 3 lb hammer and got in a few blows before I broke the other tip. That screw was wedged in tight!
By this time, the slot was really torn up and nothing could get a grip on it. It was time for the ultimate screw removal technique. I found a 3/8 bolt with a hex head and ground the threaded end down to about 1/8". The I got out the MIG welder and welded the shank of the bolt to the beat-up slotted head. With my long-handled 9/16" wrench, I pushed gently, then harder until the screw finally turned. The head had been really wedged against the countersunk hole because the threads were well-oiled from going into the inside of the block. I don't like welding on blocks when the crank and pistons are still in place, but I was careful not to run current through the bearings.
That was my day, how was yours?
[img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/indy/gary_indycar25_vvsm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
Dartmouth, Mass.
'32 Indy car replica (in progress)
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
web site at http://www.studegarage.com
Six nuts loosened and I was ready to pull off the flywheel. It almost fell on my foot when it came loose because I did not expect it to weight 48 lbs. These old engines didn't wind up fast. I may want to lighten it some.
Then there was the thin steel plate between the bell housing and the block itself. Shouldn't be a chore, only four 3/8-16 flat-head screws with great big slots. I tried all the screw drivers I own, even the humongous one, but none of them budged. No problem, I've got the hand impact driver! Well, I got two of them loose with the 3 lb hammer on the driver but the other two wouldn't budge. Tried the 5 lb hammer and was starting to tear up the slots. Decided my cheap Harbor Freight impact driver was coming apart, made the trip to Sears for a newer/better one. No joy! And the slots were getting worse.
I got out the MAPP torch and heated the heads of the screws, then squirted PB Blaster on them. Hit 'em again. More heat, more PB Blaster. I finally got # 3 loose. So, I'm wailing away on screw #4, using my 5 lb hammer and I broke the tip off the brittle tip for slotted screws. No problem, I still had the tip from the old impact driver. I backed off a little, went back with the 3 lb hammer and got in a few blows before I broke the other tip. That screw was wedged in tight!
By this time, the slot was really torn up and nothing could get a grip on it. It was time for the ultimate screw removal technique. I found a 3/8 bolt with a hex head and ground the threaded end down to about 1/8". The I got out the MIG welder and welded the shank of the bolt to the beat-up slotted head. With my long-handled 9/16" wrench, I pushed gently, then harder until the screw finally turned. The head had been really wedged against the countersunk hole because the threads were well-oiled from going into the inside of the block. I don't like welding on blocks when the crank and pistons are still in place, but I was careful not to run current through the bearings.
That was my day, how was yours?
[img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/indy/gary_indycar25_vvsm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
Dartmouth, Mass.
'32 Indy car replica (in progress)
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
web site at http://www.studegarage.com
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