POR-15 floorboards

[63larkcustom]

Hi all, I just received my paint. Is there anything special that must be done prior to applying it? I've wire brushed and cleaned the floors. Thanks in advance.

Bob Sporner
63 Lark Regal 4dr sedan

[Dick Steinkamp]

POR recommends their Marine Clean, then their Metal Ready, then the POR 15

http://www.por15.com/

Check the FAQ's in this site also.




Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[Roscomacaw]

If your floors were uniformly rusty, I'd say slop it on. Since they're not, as Dick says, you ought to follow their recommendations.
I can tell you from experience - you put POR-15 on a nice, clean metal surface and it sticks like glue - until it's "cured" in a couple of days. Then you'll be dismayed at how easily it flakes off without much provocation. Same way over cleaned and/or sanded paint or primer - a waste of money.[8]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

[DilloCrafter]

I'm glad Biggsy drove that point home about preparing it just right or it's a waste of money. Do like Dick said, and go to their website to get the full instructions. And definitely get that Marine Clean and their Metal Prep. Might as well do it right, and with POR-15, there is only one way - their way. Many of us know, there is no room for error or experimentation with that stuff. And wear long rubber gloves, because that stuff will not come off of you, not even with acetone, after the first few minutes.

[img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Avacar-hcsdc.gif[/img=left]DilloCrafter

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas

[stuvw2mny]

Hey, this answers a question I have had for a long time about POR-15. I am now sure that I want to find alternatives. What is the opinion of the group about using epoxy resin on top of lightly rusted floor-boards? Of course I would remove all the rust I could and also use some phosphoric acid product to further neutralize the metal before applying the epoxy. The objective is to protect the metal from further rusting. If there are a few places where the metal is thin after the rust removal I could apply some fiberglass matting during the epoxy installation. Anybody done this? Comments??? Yes, I know there is a point where the floorboards would be too rusty to use this technique and would require welding in replacement panels.

Another technique that was available 30 years ago for the underneath and hard to reach locations was a rust neutralizer in a light grease, applied from a spray can. It was marketed by Texaco. It was especially useful on the inside of doors, at the lower seam. Is anything like that available now? Yes, I know it would drive concours nuts crazy, but they aren't the only people in the world.

Finally has anybody had any experience with galvanizing or zinc-rich sprays?

[63larkcustom]

Thanks for the heads up guys. I did the marine clean...but not the metal prep. I'll be ordering that shortly.



Bob Sporner
Palm Springs, California

[DilloCrafter]

Good, Bob, I'm glad you'll be doing it the only way that works for that system.

As for the epoxy route stuvw2many is thinking about, I simply can't say. It SEEMS like a good thick coat of epoxy would permanently encapsulate the rust, so that no air or moisture could "feed" the rust anymore (that's the principal with POR-15). But I really don't know. You ought to do a search in this forum for "rust treatment" or "rust products" or "POR-15" to see past topics where people here have tried different products that they feel works as well or better than POR-15, but without the need for following such precise details to get it to work. I think one is called "Rust Bullet", but I know that other products have been mentioned.

You may want to check out POR-15's website for some of their other products that work together with POR-15. I used something they make that is basically fiberglass jelly embedded with little strands of fiberglass. Works fantastic. But, it may be the exact same stuff you can now get made by Bondo at your FLAPS, which appears to be the same thing. It's good for bridging pinholes and spreading over areas that are thin due to rust eating the metal away. I have confidence in my floorboards now.

[img=left]http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Avacar-hcsdc.gif[/img=left]DilloCrafter

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas

[dictator27]

Anybody tried Bill Hirsch's products? The antique auto parts place here (Langley British Columbia) used to stock POR-15 but dropped it in favour of Hirsch's products because there was so much prep work involved with POR-15.


Terry Godkin
27 Dictator Sedan
54 Commander Starliner

[Studebayker]

I have used Rustoleum since it was introduced, especially the
rusty metal primer. You can prime over it, and top coat it with
any paint. No special cleaning, other than brush off the loose
stuff, and clean off the grease,and oil.



James K. Clark
Rutledge Tenn.
'55 Prez. 2dr Hdtp.
Don't take yourself too seriously!

James K. Clark

[rockne10]

I probably clean off more rust than necessary, but then use Dupont 5717S and 5718S to neutralize and etch what's left. The surface is then ready for whatever primer you prefer. An epoxy etching primer is probably overkill but I really don't want to do it a second time.

Once you go with the POR15, play by their rules.

Just about anything we do is more than the factory did, and the majority of our vehicles probably won't be subjected to the weathering they were subjected to when they were new.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight

previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

[63larkcustom]

Here is the completed floor. Thanks for the help guys




Bob Sporner
Palm Springs, California

[bams50]

Looks great!

I'm getting ready to do the same to my Lark; please update us in a week or 2 on how well it hardens up and STICKS to the metal!

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[63larkcustom]

Sure thing!

Bob Sporner
Palm Springs, California

[Challenger]

quote:Originally posted by stuvw2mny

.

Another technique that was available 30 years ago for the underneath and hard to reach locations was a rust neutralizer in a light grease, applied from a spray can. It was marketed by Texaco. It was especially useful on the inside of doors, at the lower seam. Is anything like that available now?

3M has a aerosol products called "Rust Fighter I" and Rust Fighter E" that fits this description. I've used "I" on the insides of doors and hard to reach areas on quarters and fenders to protect them after welding, which burns any paint off of the inside, and leaves them rust prone. An extra large can of this was about $12 several years ago.

[JDP]

The fiberglass putty stuff is called Tiger Hair;

http://www.rcustomcar.com/Tiger-Hair-Long-Strand-Fiberglass-Filler-Gallon-P758C0.aspx

JDP
Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net

http://stude.com

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