Amber 64 parking light lenses

[Skip Lackie]

A couple of weeks ago, Nate Nagel asked me to post this Stude Service Letter, as it is apparently not included in the set of Service Bulletins on CD. I finally got my new printer/scanner installed and connected, so here it is. I tried to achieve a compromise between legibility and file size. If I failed on either, my apologies. BTW, the paper color should be pink.




Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[N8N]

Thanks Skip, if you feel so inclined I wouldn't mind having a copy of the original scan. (I think when you post something to the forums, it may automatically shrink large files.) I'll send what you posted to Daniel Stern right away, I'm sure he'll find it interesting.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[rockne10]

As my '53 goes together, I decided to put amber bulbs behind the clear lenses and wire them to the tailights so they will be on with the headlights. If I decide I don't like it it's easy enough to change.

[N8N]

Rockne10, you will find that there aren't bulbs available to do what you want, unless you have replaced the sockets in your front parking lights. The stock sockets used a 1158 bulb which is a Ba15d *non-index* base, basically a 1154 but without the indexed base, so you have to try it both ways to make sure you have it right. The reason for this is that turn signals were apparently optional until 1956 so they used the same non-index socket shells for both versions, only the inserts and wiring were different. If you didn't order turn signals you got a single-contact insert and would have a regular single filament bulb.

Why am I explaining this? Because I haven't found a 1176 or 1376 (12V equivalents to 1158) bulb with an amber coating. The only way I could see to do this would be to get some steel wire about the same size as the pins on a regular light bulb base, grind off the offset pin on a 1034NA, and drill a small hole in the "correct" location and solder in a piece of wire to serve as a new "pin." Alternately you'd have to find some transparent amber paint and dip a 1158 (6V) or 1176/1376 (12V) bulb into it to duplicate the appearance of a modern NA bulb.

If anyone wants a copy of the high-res version of this letter I've converted it to a .pdf consistent with the other files on Ray's CD, just drop me an email and I'll forward it to you. Only about 50KB and it scanned really well. Thanks again Skip.

Nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[53k]

quote:Originally posted by N8N

Rockne10, you will find that there aren't bulbs available to do what you want, unless you have replaced the sockets in your front parking lights. The stock sockets used a 1158 bulb which is a Ba15d *non-index* base, basically a 1154 but without the indexed base, so you have to try it both ways to make sure you have it right. The reason for this is that turn signals were apparently optional until 1956 so they used the same non-index socket shells for both versions, only the inserts and wiring were different. If you didn't order turn signals you got a single-contact insert and would have a regular single filament bulb.
Why am I explaining this? Because I haven't found a 1176 or 1376 (12V equivalents to 1158) bulb with an amber coating. The only way I could see to do this would be to get some steel wire about the same size as the pins on a regular light bulb base, grind off the offset pin on a 1034NA, and drill a small hole in the "correct" location and solder in a piece of wire to serve as a new "pin." Alternately you'd have to find some transparent amber paint and dip a 1158 (6V) or 1176/1376 (12V) bulb into it to duplicate the appearance of a modern NA bulb.
If anyone wants a copy of the high-res version of this letter I've converted it to a .pdf consistent with the other files on Ray's CD, just drop me an email and I'll forward it to you. Only about 50KB and it scanned really well. Thanks again Skip.

They used to sell an amber paint specifically for coloring clear bulbs to meet amber requirements (probably can't find it now though). The Shrocks told me years ago that they used the amber bulb paint to re-create the clear gold color in the center of '53 through '55 wheel covers,

Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine
1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

[gordr]

Nate, you can put an "indexed" bulb, like n 1157, in a non-indexed socket by simply filing off the non-conforming pin. One pin holds it in just fine. I used to do this routinely. Actually, leaving a little bit of a nub on the filed-off pin might make the bulb fit the socket more tightly! But I never had a problem with them.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[barnlark]

Expensive, but you can pass it on to everyone, or set up a bulb painting booth in Cedar Rapids [8D]:

http://www.stagespot.com/product/ROSPNT-COLORINE/Rosco%20Paint%20-%20Colorine?gclid=COeXhOSC85cCFQ0xawod_m-0Dg

[rockne10]

There's virtually nothing in my '53 that hasn't been replaced, resurfaced, reconditioned, rechromed, resurrected or otherwise brought in to new configuration, including sockets. This project is entering its seventh year; 12-volt, 289, TT, A/C, intermittent wipers, stereo, etc, etc.
I bought it 33 years ago and want to have fun driving it today.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

[barnlark]

Pretty icy and salty roads around here, Brad. Better rethink that. I'm missing a convertible ride each day, too. Hang in there.

[BRUCESTUDE]

I have an early '64 Daytona HT (4spd, tach)and I put the amber lights on it for looks, although clear lenses w/amber bulbs would work just fine[8].

[Swifster]

Has anyone changed the sockets over to another type from another car to fit amber bulbs? Just curious. I'd rather keep my clear lenses. I could shave a tab as mentioned above, but I'd rather make changing the bulbs easy.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)