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  • Brake System Rebuild (Champion)

    So, It's 2am feeding time and I'm up figuring what to do next on the Champion. I'm planning on re-doing the brake system. The plan so far is:

    1) Dual Master Cylinder (Kit from Turner)
    2) Hone/Rebuild or replace wheel cylinders
    3) New brake lines
    4) New brake shoes
    5) Clean up brake drums

    Anything else I'm missing from my list?

    --

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by JodyKerr

    So, It's 2am feeding time and I'm up figuring what to do next on the Champion. I'm planning on re-doing the brake system. The plan so far is:

    1) Dual Master Cylinder (Kit from Turner)
    2) Hone/Rebuild or replace wheel cylinders
    3) New brake lines
    4) New brake shoes
    5) Clean up brake drums

    Anything else I'm missing from my list?

    --
    Jody,

    A few more items -

    6) New brake hoses
    7) New front drum grease seals
    8) Clean, inspect (replace if required), repack inner/outer front wheel bearings
    9) Pull rear axles; clean, inspect (replace if required), repack rear axle bearings
    10) New rear axle inner and outer axle seals
    11) Check axle endplay and reset if required
    12) Inspect emergency brake cable, ensure it is free and in good condition, replace if needed, lubricate

    Yeah, I know....it really increases the amount of work. But while everything is apart, now is the time to do it.

    By the way, I assumed that your item number 3) was replacement of the steel brake lines. Also, your item 5) should include a measurement of the drums, and also turning them to ensure the shoes seat well.

    Something to think about - IIRC, your Champion is a '53. In '54, Studebaker went to a self-energizing style of brakes that provided significantly better braking power. You may want to consider obtaining the backing plates and mechanicals from a '54 thru '62 Champion to upgrade the brakes. Check the parts manual, but I believe the drums are the same and can be reused with the later brakes.

    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
    Check out my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/r1lark

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    • #3
      Paul,

      Thanks! Good additions to the list. Lord knows the last time this stuff was gone through, and it's always best to do as much as you can at a go.

      Jody

      --

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      • #4
        Ok, my fuel system re-do was completed today. Short of fully charging the battery and getting the old girl to run everything's in good shape.

        I was looking at the Turner Brake MC kit. Has anyone else installed it? It doesn't look too difficult to do, but I'm not entirely sure that all comes in the kit and what doesn't. Based on what I read, the hardest part will be bending and flaring line, which is no big deal.

        Jody

        --

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        • #5
          Jody; you do know that all Brake Lines need to be DOUBLE flared for safety, like the original right?

          For most of us, that IS a big deal!

          If you have professional equipment and are a Pro at it, good -no problem!

          It always seems better to get pre-flared ones, but then you have the length and bend problem of changing the length needed for the flares to fit perfectly, which they need to do! [:0]

          quote:Originally posted by JodyKerr

          Based on what I read, the hardest part will be bending and flaring line, which is no big deal.

          StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

          Comment


          • #6
            Yep, double flaring's no big deal, I've flared a lot of line by hand over the years. It's a matter of going slowly and having enough oomph at the appropriate moments.

            --

            Comment


            • #7
              6) Bleed brake system once brake upgrades are complete. [)]

              Hey now that you have a second hand to help you bleed the brakes, although I think age might be a problem at this point. [)]

              [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left][img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000145-1.jpg[/img=left][IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
              [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by PlainBrownR2

                6) Bleed brake system once brake upgrades are complete. [)]

                Hey now that you have a second hand to help you bleed the brakes, although I think age might be a problem at this point. [)]
                Heh, I highly doubt his feet will reach the pedals for another ... say... 9 years.

                --

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