Toilet paper roll

[jmccarrol@hotmail.com]

I have a nice chrome Frantz oil filter to replace the Fram unit on my Champion 6 cylinder. The filter in the chrome unit is a roll of toilet paper (not used). Any expert out there as to the pros & cons of this setup. Thanks.
Joe

[Tom Bredehoft]

Search function found this.

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16932&SearchTerms=Franz+Oil+Filter

I know there are others.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 564 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[StudeRich]

Properly installed, properly changed Scott 1000 single ply White, non-scented, non-quilted Tissue changed every 1-2,000 miles and you will have the cleanest engine in town! [^]

The paper is so absorbent that it will hold close to an entire quart and you will need to add 1 Qt. when changing the filter. It is capable of filtering to many microns finer than any commercial filter available.


StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

[64V-K7]

....and in addition to what StudeRich said, I think you're supposed to remove the center cardboard core, before inserting the said roll of TP.

Bob Johnstone

http://www.studebaker-info.org

55 President State Sedan
64 GT Hawk
70 Avanti (R3)

[jmccarrol@hotmail.com]

Thanks for the great information. The people on this site are really interested and want to help people who are new to Studebakers.
Joe

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hmmm.
There's a reason why they aren't on every car on the road...being that they are so good!

Mike

[StudeRich]

No, do not ever remove the core, the newer paper rolls now have too large a core to fit, and require a round center tube adapter available at the new "Filter It" Frantz Dealer in Texas.

These would never work as original equipment on new cars, because they require the owner's personal attention and maintenance, which most disposable car owners do not want, can not do, and will not do!

Also you could not trust someone who's mechanical knowledge consists of knowing how to unscrew a drain plug to change one of these!

quote:Originally posted by 55Prez

....and in addition to what StudeRich said, I think you're supposed to remove the center cardboard core, before inserting the said roll of TP.

StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

[64V-K7]

Back in the days, the center core was ( and still is) cardboard, which doesn't make a good filtration medium... The instructions said to remove it, as it blocked the flow.....

Just to check, I emailed the vendor in Texas. She inferred that the older ones removed the core ( I think that's what she said)
She did send me a picture of the current model and it appears to have the core still in it..



So StudeRich gets the point on this one..


Bob Johnstone

http://www.studebaker-info.org

55 President State Sedan
64 GT Hawk
70 Avanti (R3)

[jmccarrol@hotmail.com]

I just checked my filter and the centre cardboard liner is still intact and also shows that the filter had been in use at one time.
Thank you to Bob for the picture. I wasn't sure where the ring should be placed. I thought maybe it was to be wrapped around the
filter. One picture is still worth a thousand words.
Joe

[jlmccuan]

Never use biodegradeable TP. Don't ask me how I know.

Jim

_________1966 Avanti II RQA 0088______________________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152_______________Rabid Snail Racing

[53 Commander]

Here's the Franz website.

http://www.wefilterit.com/

Steve
53 Commander Hardtop
55 Commander Conestoga
60 Lark Convertible
62 Champ 7E7
49 2R15 Stakebed

[Bunzard]

My friend had a '50 Poncho straight 8 which was not known to be an extremely long lived engine. He had 92k miles on it and a Franz filter, swore he had never changed the oil. The oil looked clean and the old car ran beautifully. I was impressed with the finned filter housing but the things cost about a weeks pay in '58. Now it is chromed instead of finned and $200 to $300 will buy a complete kit. A good product but definitely for the "do-it-yourselfer" who will be prompt about service when the mileage indicates.

[Flashback]

What no cons. The local power company used the
toilet paper filter in the sixties and swore by
it. But think about it. When you replace it at
1-2 thousand miles, you add a fresh quart of oil.
So in essence you change the oil and don't even
change the oil. HUH!! Sure this absorbs some bad
stuff, and you add fresh oil regularly. So just
how much more efficient is it than a filter. NONE!
How much more casco (is that the word?)is it? A
little. Too much candy for a dime!!!

Tex E. Grier

[StudeRich]

You missed the point Tex, the efficiency is not in the oil or labor saving, it's in the much smaller micron size of the filter media's filtering ability and the bi-pass filter's ability to SLOWLY ultra fine filter the smaller particles including harmful acids and water out of your engine to save the bearings and moving parts. That more than pays for it, even at today's price for the unit, it costs 2-3,000.00 to rebuild the Stude. V-8 and IF you are looking for savings that's where it is! [^]

Also, how do you figure that one quart of oil costs the same as 6 Qts.? [?]

quote:Originally posted by Flashback

/Cut/So just how much more efficient is it than a filter. NONE!/Cut/

[gordr]

Color me a little skeptical on this one.

First issue: back when the Frantz oil cleaner was new, motor oil did not have much of an additive package, so if you managed to filter all the particulates out, you had undegraded base oil. Nowadays, oils are loaded with detergents, and anti-friction additives (like ZDDP), and if the oil becomes depleted, will adding a quart of new with the filter change restore enough of them?

Second point: toilet paper, might, ideally, make a great filter medium, but how consistent is it? Remember, it's not manufactured to be used for that purpose, and they probably don't check that property when they QC their production lines. ( I don't even want to know just HOW they QC toilet paper, LOL.) Seriously, though, what if the roll of paper develops channels, permitting unfiltered oil to pass through? Or if some of the binders in the paper dissolve in the oil, or in water or acid formed in the oil as a result of blowby gases condensing in the crankcase? There is a risk of the TP filter putting something INTO the oil, if the particular roll of paper used isn't up to the job.

Buy an oil filter from Wix, or AC, or Fram, and if the filter is defective, and lets loose a hunk of material that blocks the oil feed to a bearing and trashes your engine, there is at least some potential legal remedy. If your filter medium is a roll of Purex, do you think that Kimberly-Clark will step up and buy you an engine?

Third point: modern engines, '90s on up, seem to routinely go for hundreds of thousands of miles without needing an overhaul. Not every one, but a great many do. And they all have "inefficient" full-flow filters. That's telling me that maybe the ultra-fine particulates don't have that much to do with engine wear; maybe it's more a function of oil dilution caused by carbureted engines over-fueling, and depositing raw gasoline on the cylinder walls. You'll note that the increase in engine longevity of the "current" vehicle fleet does more or less coincide with the universal use of closed-loop EFI.

And Diesel engines routinely last for half a million miles, and their oil turns black as tar within a few hundred miles of every oil change.

I simply don't think there is a magic bullet to be found in the oil filter department. If I were really concerned to get the best possible filtration, I'd make sure my Studebaker had a guality full-flow filter on it, PLUS a quality bypass filter, both made with filter media expressly built for their role.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands