What is truth POR 15?

[Jimmie]

I called the toll free number on the web site for POR15 and was told that I could buy the material for $143/gallon or 4 quarts for $157.50.
I inquired about waiting for rust to begin to appear after sandblasting as was suggested by someone on the forum and was told that I should just apply it to the freshly sandblasted frame after blowing the dust off. I asked about this in different ways two other times and was told the same thing, just blow off the dust and apply two coats. When I asked about using Metal Ready or some other material first, he again repeated that I only needed to blow off the dust and apply two coats.

I asked about buying it in Indiana and was told that it could be bought at a place just West of Indianapolis-765-345-2131.

I called the number and was told that it could only be purchased in quarts and that if I bought more than one quart it would be $38.66 or $154.64 for 4 quarts. However, the fellow I spoke with told me that it required 4 different kinds of materials and 4 steps. Also, he said that the substance I was talking about was POR7.

QUESTIONS:
1. Has anyone simply put it on a freshly sandblasted frame, if so, what were the results.
2. Does the fellow's reference to POR 7 mean anything to anyone reading this?
3. There is a glossy and a flat, has anyone used both and which is best for the frame of my 1950 Studebaker?
4. On the web site it indicates that it can be used anywhere on any metal. Would it be suitable for the underside of the whole body or is there something better.
5. Any other things that I should consider?

1950 2 timer
Orleans, Indiana

[BRUCESTUDE]

I've used POR15 on blasted suspension parts; just brushed it on (after using a degreaser),it held up real well. I used flat black, I think a satin would look best, if it is available.

[58PackardWagon]

I just put it on a sandblasted frame....use their metal prep first. The product is awesome and sticks very well. Also once it cures, it is as hard as a rock. I order it and got it in the gallon size.

Never heard of por 7.

Use semi gloss/satin if possible or gloss.

I am painting the underside of the body the same color of the body, but I am doing a frame off restoration. If the body is off of the frame, that is what I would suggest otherwise I would paint it the body color and undercoat it.

Best of luck


58 Packard Wgn (Parade Red)
58 Packard Wgn (Park Green)
58 Packard Sdn (Shadowtone Red)
62 Daytona (White)
63 R2 Lark (Super Red)

[944-LT1]

Try ChassisSaver. Its cheaper and the tech sheect says you paint directly over sandblasted mediums with no need for undercoats such as metal ready or others. The best part is that Chassis Saver has the correct "Antique-Satin Black" color youre looking for.

Ive tried Por15 and its nice too but costs too much and is scarce.

Try this site for info and tech... http://www.savesautobodysupply.com/chasissaver.html

1960 Studebaker Lark VIII convertible.

[37CoupeE]

I have been using POR 15 for about 10 years now.
I could not be happier with it's performance.
When I did my 37 CE the complete underside is done with POR 15.
All I did was as you were told, sand or glass bead blast, blow off the dust and paint.
This was done from 1998 till 2000, the only place that I can see any rust is on the rear springs, the rest of the underside looks as good as the day I did it.
The CE has about 10,000 miles on it since it was done in 2000.
The only places that need some black touch up is were they receive direct sunlight, POR 15 in direct sunlight will grey and dull out, it most be top-coated.
I have just finished doing the car trailer that I purchased with POR 15, basically all I did is hit it with a 4 inch cup wire brush on an angle grinder to knock of the loose rust and painted the frame.
When I purchased the POR 15, I bought it in Quart cans.
You only take out what you are goin to use and put it in another container, you never paint rust directly from the POR 15 can.
I had a can with saran wrap under the cover in my garage refridgerator for over two years and it is still fine.
I've paid as much as $40.00 per quart at our local auto paint store.
I can not say enough about how pleased I am with POR 15.

[dong]

I have used both the gloss and semigloss POR15. I painted the rear end, springs and top of the floors with gloss and it looked really good. I painted the frame and underneath of the car with semigloss and it came out flat (dull). It is fine but I think I should have used the Gloss. I agree that the best way to store it is in the frig

Don

[DEEPNHOCK]

Same here.
I transfer mine to old (washed out) plastic quart oil bottles.
If they do 'skin over', you can squeeze and crack the film and pour out fresh.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by 37CoupeE

I have been using POR 15 for about 10 years now.
I could not be happier with it's performance.
When I did my 37 CE the complete underside is done with POR 15.
All I did was as you were told, sand or glass bead blast, blow off the dust and paint.
This was done from 1998 till 2000, the only place that I can see any rust is on the rear springs, the rest of the underside looks as good as the day I did it.
The CE has about 10,000 miles on it since it was done in 2000.
The only places that need some black touch up is were they receive direct sunlight, POR 15 in direct sunlight will grey and dull out, it most be top-coated.
I have just finished doing the car trailer that I purchased with POR 15, basically all I did is hit it with a 4 inch cup wire brush on an angle grinder to knock of the loose rust and painted the frame.
When I purchased the POR 15, I bought it in Quart cans.
You only take out what you are goin to use and put it in another container, you never paint rust directly from the POR 15 can.
I had a can with saran wrap under the cover in my garage refridgerator for over two years and it is still fine.
I've paid as much as $40.00 per quart at our local auto paint store.
I can not say enough about how pleased I am with POR 15.

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

[barnlark]

I tried to find my POR catalog to help you with what POR7 is, but couldn't find it. I bought my POR15 and POR20 on ebay from the seller, POR GUYS. I couldn't find them in my favorites, but ebay searched POR15 and got POR-outlet as a seller. There are better deals on ebay for what you need sometimes. I used POR 15 semi-gloss on my frame and it does come out flat more than a true semi-gloss. If you want a proper chassis black you can top coat over the POR15 within 24 hours without sanding with any paint; it does not have to be their paint. After that you have to rough up the surface and it's really hard work. The stuff is extremely hard, not an easy sand. If you sandblasted and got all of the grease off you should be okay with directly painting POR15 after a compressed air blow, however their Metal Ready makes sure any grease or any degreaser film is off of the metal..but that should be done first before sandblasting anyway. Sandblasting is enough. POR likes a rough surface, but clean. Lacquer thinner and just about anything else but their Metal Ready will leave a residue and it may peal off later. I have seen it do it. I would get a gallon and use washed out pasta sauce jars for dipping the brush. It has to be stirred, not shaken.. unlike Bond's martini. There is a thick bottom layer that needs to be brought up with stirring for a good mix. This makes for a better semi-gloss finish and helps make it less flat if not top coating.
Get a long sleeve shirt (maybe two because spots will soak through one) that you don't care about ever using again and tape rubber gloves to the sleeves. This stuff spreads well, but runs like no other paint on everything. Two thin coats works great. If you get paint on your hands or face use lacquer thinner fast (not 5 minutes, NOW) and then wash off with soap and water right away, otherwise you will have to wait for the skin to come off naturally. I found a scuff pad works great, too. Hey, women pay big bucks for those skin peals..
Also, anything but POR20 on the super hot areas of the intake and exhaust will turn gold if painted silver. The engine paint works great, but the middle port of the intake is hot enough to flake and turn color. After 300 degrees the POR20 hardens, so you paint and run the engine. After that, it's on there for good. Hope that helps.

[Studeman]

Freshly sandblasted parts need NO additional prep. Just blow off the dust. No need to wipe them down, degrease, or whatever... Even if you wait a few days, and you see a slight "haze" beginning... that is just fine. (as long as the pieces aren't rained on, or someone sprays them with WD-40). TWO coats is best but not really necessary. DO NOT wait to dry between coats... just go over it when tacky.
IF you want to use POR-15 as a primer for parts that you may wish to paint a different color (say you want a yellow frame).. Just apply the POR as usual... then prime with EPOXY primer within 6-hours (usual Temps). You do not really need to use only POR-15's TIECOAT PRIMER. The epoxy will stick just as well.

Say you blast a part- and then you don't get to it right away for painting. It gets a red haze of rust on it that when wiped- comes off on a rag. You can just wire brush it, blow it off, and apply the POR-15. IF you must wipe it down with anything, I use Phosphoric Acid (you can get it at most Hardware/Home Centers) mixed 50-50 with Isopropyl alcohol. This is far cheaper than "Metal-Ready" and other pre-paint metal preps. This also eliminates the required "rinsing" of some products. You will need to use a rag that won't lose fibers- such as a 50/50 cotton polyester T-shirt. Cotton towels/Blue prep-wipes etc... will just leave thousands of fibers behind.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[barnlark]

Never tried an acid and alcohol mix, good tip, Ray.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Just note that most isopropyl alcohol you get today is about 20%+ water.....
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Studeman
<snip>
I use Phosphoric Acid (you can get it at most Hardware/Home Centers) mixed 50-50 with Isopropyl alcohol. This is far cheaper than "Metal-Ready" and other pre-paint metal preps. This also eliminates the required "rinsing" of some products. You will need to use a rag that won't lose fibers- such as a 50/50 cotton polyester T-shirt. Cotton towels/Blue prep-wipes etc... will just leave thousands of fibers behind.
Ray

[rodnutrandy]

On my M series, I removed all the cracked undercoating underneath truck floor, sanded and removed all paint and rust ,applied por15, than undercoated over it, turned out great,but only time will tell. I was told that one type por15 is for where sunlight won't hit it( inside doors,cab,under truck cab or bed ,and another is made that excepts sunlight. This was told by vendor that sold to me at the Springfield ,Ohio swap meet. Did keep mine in refrigerator and had no trouble with it. If it does as it said,It is well worth the $40 a quart.

Randy Wilkin
1946 M5 Streetrod
Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

[Sonny]

From experience,.... Said it before, I'll say it again. Get the POR-type system that Eastwood puts out. Sun light doesn't bother it, easier to work with, stays better/longer, harder finish, just better.... There was a comparison done in a car magazine some time back. According to the article, no comparison.... Your bucks/time/effort/etc....

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

[Jimmie]

Sonny,
Thanks for the information. I do have a catalogue from Eastwood. You must be making reference to the 2K Ceramic Black. It would be great but I do not have the equipment to spray it nor the protective gear to protect myself. I am going to talk to a fellow about doing it for me though.

Thanks for the information, I really appreciate all the suggestions that I get.
Sincerely,
Jimmie

quote:Originally posted by Sonny

From experience,.... Said it before, I'll say it again. Get the POR-type system that Eastwood puts out. Sun light doesn't bother it, easier to work with, stays better/longer, harder finish, just better.... There was a comparison done in a car magazine some time back. According to the article, no comparison.... Your bucks/time/effort/etc....

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

1950 2 timer
Orleans, Indiana