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  • Sandblasted frame-now what?

    Hopefully within the next week I will have the body off the frame and the frame will be sandblasted and ready for the next step. What are some options I should consider as far as ?painting? the frame and other heavy metal parts underneath?

    1950 2 timer
    Orleans, Indiana
    sigpicJimmie
    Orange County, Indiana
    1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

  • #2
    Sandblast it and paint, or if it's rusty save some money and use POR15 -which actually adheres best to rusty surfaces and can be applied with a brush.

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    • #3
      Powdercoating is one option. I have a place that does it cheaper then I can prime amd paint it. I know different parts of the country prices will vary so check around. I do all frame and sup.parts.

      1956 Studebaker Pelham Wagon Houston, Texas
      Remember, \"When all is said and done. More is always said then ever done.\"

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      • #4
        Jimmie,
        I've always had great results using POR-15. If your not familiar with this product just google POR-15. Sometimes you can even purchase it locally, depending on your paint/body supplier. It dries rock hard, and can be brushed on, and properly applied will last years and years.

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        • #5
          I'm trying powdercoating on the Daytona frame.

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Mulberry, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

          Comment


          • #6
            I just sandblasted a Lark frame, did metal prep and por 15 and it came out perfect. The por product is so strong. It is a pain to work with, sticks to everything when spraying it, plus a real mess if it gets on your hands, but the product is outstanding.

            58 Packard Wgn (Parade Red)
            58 Packard Wgn (Park Green)
            58 Packard Sdn (Shadowtone Red)
            62 Daytona (White)
            63 R2 Lark (Super Red)

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            • #7
              I suggest wearing some latex gloves when using POR 15. Also remember that it sets itself up with air, so it will harden any unuesed portion in the can. They suggest using a glass jar to hold the remaining paint, place wax paper or plastic wrap over the opening & store the jar "upside down" so any air pocket is now at the bottom of the jar, when reused the opening will have liquid to pour out with any hardened material at the bottom.

              60 Lark convertible
              61 Champ
              62 Daytona convertible
              63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2)
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan
              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
              64 Zip Van
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
              66 Cruiser V-8 auto

              Comment


              • #8
                Only issues with powdercoating to consider are chipping, and the fact that you can't really weld anything on after it's done.
                Probably no concern if restoring, but all your build prep needs to be completed first.
                That, and the fact that neither really address the inside of the frame.
                Jeff[8D]



                quote:Originally posted by Swifster

                I'm trying powdercoating on the Daytona frame.
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                Comment


                • #9
                  I have powder coated, painted, and used POR15 on frames. My thoughts are:

                  Powder Coating, $500-700, and a bit of an aggravation to get the frame to the powder coater and back. Very good results but not indestructable.

                  Paint with Chassis Black, $25-30, quick, easy, cheap, but easily marked.

                  POR 15 $100-150 ($40 plus/ quart) time consuming, messy, but my preferred method. I just finished my Lark. They say it should be topcoated if exposed to sunlight but it seems okay for frames. I did my Champ frame 4 years ago and do not see any problems. You will be using throw away bushes because there is no way to clean them so I would not use any expensive brushes (the real cheap brushes will leave bristles in the paint but the foam brushes get real heavy and fall apart very quickly). Also clean anything you spill immediately. POR 15 on your skin will take 3-5 days to wear off. I got some on the end of my nose and looked pretty funny for a few days. Also, store the unused paint in the refrigerator. It will last a lot longer without hardening. Of course if you don't have a frig in your shop you might get some resistance to this. Another thing, POR15 comes in gloss, semi gloss and flat. The gloss is real glossy, but the semi gloss is pretty flat. I did the floors and body panels with gloss and the frame with semi gloss and the frame is dull. I kind of wished I had used the gloss. But I put 2 coats on and it will just have to do.
                  Good luck

                  Don

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

                    That, and the fact that neither really address the inside of the frame.
                    Jeff[8D]
                    This is true. The only way to handle this is a chemical dip and them a paint dip. Very few places dip for paint. I've seen a few powdercoaters who can use a wand (like the old Zebart wands for rustproofing). But in an enclosed space there is no guarantee of full coverage. It's a catch 22.

                    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                    Tom - Mulberry, FL

                    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

                    Tom - Bradenton, FL

                    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I sandblasted and powdercoated my 2R5 frame, $350.00 for everything, spare tire holder, cab mounts, tank mounts, ect.

                      [img][/img]

                      [img][/img]

                      [img][/img]

                      From now on all my heavy pieces will be powdercoated.

                      John
                      John

                      62' Deluxe R2 4SPD.

                      63' R1 Wagonaire

                      57' Transtar 259 punched to 312 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction

                      58' 3E6D Stock 4X4

                      64' (Studebaker Built) Trailer Toter

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                        I sandblasted and powdercoated my 2R5 frame, $350.00 for everything, spare tire holder, cab mounts, tank mounts, ect.

                        That is an incredible price, Where are you located? The frame I did was $450 for the frame and $200 for all the brackets and stuff (I am on th eeast coast of Florida).


                        Don

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                        • #13
                          John...I would like to know where you got this done as well. AFI in Piqua wants $750.00 to powdercoat the frame and if I include all the suspension components the price is $1300.00. They do a great job as I have had modified and sprint car frames done there, but wow...what a great price and your pictures look excellent.

                          One option as well that I have seen done on some race car frames is an armor coating process that will draw the paint into any holes in the frame (from what I have been told this is the same process used on aircraft) and it is virtually indestructable...however, I dont know what the cost would be to have that method done.

                          Steve Saeger
                          Marysville, Ohio

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                          • #14
                            Hey Steve, I am just south of Erie, PA. The shop that did my frame is just west of Erie. They specialize in factiry piece work, for manufacturing purposes. But they will do anything. They did a lights out job, even welded a small crack that I missed until after the sandblasting was done. I checked with a shop over near Zanesville, OH that Meyer's sent me to and they were gonna be about $1200.00 for everything.

                            John
                            John

                            62' Deluxe R2 4SPD.

                            63' R1 Wagonaire

                            57' Transtar 259 punched to 312 NP540 4:09 TT Under Construction

                            58' 3E6D Stock 4X4

                            64' (Studebaker Built) Trailer Toter

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Used POR-15 about eight years ago on a trailer I built. Tough as nails originally, but after two years, I noticed some peeling. A year or so later the coating was peeling off in sheets and some areas were rusted significantly into the metal. Tried to save the frame but way gone. Built a new frame and coated with Valspar Tractor prime and Enamel. Held up much better. The 54 frame was treated to the same Valspar from TSC. I like it for two reasons, flows great with a brush to a smooth finish and the semigloss black is a dead ringer for chassis black. The POR-15 was subject to more extreme conditions than a show car frame but I was unimpressed with the results. An "yes" I did read the directions and applied as per. If I had my druthers, I'd use the powder coat if you have an operation with a good track record. The results I've observed in Mid-Michigan have been spotty. But a beautiful result when done correctly.

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