Bad Gas Gauge on 59 Lark

[TroyN]

My gas gauge reads between 1/2 and 3/4 when the tank is full. What do I have to do to fix this problem?

[StudeRich]

Probably replace the dried up cork float on the sender.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[bams50]

Just be aware- no matter what you do, you may- or may not- be able to get the gauge very accurate. The older cars were a guessing game until you got to know the car; even two cars the same year and model can differ



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

"Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

"With your Lark you're on your own, free as a bird, alive as a Lark. You've suddenly discovered that happiness is a thing called Larking!"

[Anne F. Goodman]

Yeah its hard to remember when you drive a bunch of different old cars which one runs out where. I started making labels and sticking them on the glass that way I know. Alot of times you forget just what the mileage was for that rebuild. Make a label and put it in the middle of the glass on the speedometer then its always there. They come off easily. Tried notes and magnetic holders labels seemed to work the best for me.
Hope this helps

Mabel 1949 Champion
1957 Silverhawk
1955 Champion 4Dr.Regal
Gus 1958 Transtar
1955 President State
Fresno,Ca

[jackb]

......can you empty the tank down below 1/2 and get a reading ? I'll bet your car's gage either saw very few "full" tanks of fuel, or sat for a long time with under 3/4 tank full. My guess is the rheostat winding on the tank unit is crudded up and simply needs cleaning. I'd suggest removing the sending unit from the trunk area cut-out and placing it in a large coffee can filled with hot water and a 1/2 cup of Draino...mixed well. Don't suspend the cork in the mix. Leave for a few hours, remove then rinse by dunking the unit in the coffee can filled with hot water several times. Air dry for 1 hour. Install with new tank gasket and fill tank.
You still may not get a true "full" reading. No problem: keep topping off the tank to "full" each time at the pump to try and get the gage winding(s) scraped clean internally. I presently am going through this same process on my newly aquired Lark. I did not remove and dunk. It is improving every few tankfulls.....Thanks to Ray F. for this tip.

[barnlark]

...looks like you got my off forum answers all in the above posts, Troy. Like I said, probably the sending unit, but be careful back there. I have spare '59 gauges I'm not using, but like Bams explained and my email to you said..they all may read differently no matter what you do. The easiest thing to do is if yours works now, just get used to where it is and fill up when you think it's time and keep track how much gas you use. IMHO, I would try to get a new sending unit and start there. My gauge is nos and so is my sending unit and it's not accurate either. Like I said..fifties technology; and not the good kind.

[bradnree]

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/sdc_forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7644&SearchTerms=gas,gauge,sending,unit

BRAD

[Andy R.]

I used Henry Votel's excellently illustrated procedure for replacing the cork with a brass one in the Tech Tips Section:

http://www.gudim.com/ReplacingCorkFloats.html

The brass float works beautifully in my Hawk and the fuel gauge now registers accurately throughout the entire range, leaving me a 1-2 gallon "reserve" when it hits 'E'. Use a marker or scribe to mark exact positioning relative to the pivot point.

Vise-Grips and a 19/32" socket (to allow for spring back) formed just the right circumference to firmly snap onto the brass float with no play or rotation whatsoever. As such, I skipped the solder. The entire cost was under $8.00.

Andy
62 GT