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'50 Champion Towing capacity????

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  • '50 Champion Towing capacity????

    any suggestions as to what weight 85 horsepower might tow safely? I'm looking at acquiring one of those small teardrop trailers to do a little touring and camping

    Cheers!
    Bob in BC

    '50 Champion Starlight
    '71 Swiss 404 Unimog
    \1941 Buick Touring Sedan Twin Carb
    \'71 Swiss 404 Unimog

  • #2
    Hi Bob. Here in BC, that car would likely only be eligible to tow on a Class 1 type hitch (< 2000 lbs.) And of course, your rear axle ratio and transmission type will also be big factors in determining what a safe load limit is.
    I am uncertain whether Studebaker identified trailer towing info in the Operators/Shop Manual for cars - someone will hopefully chime in.

    Ooops [:0] - Gary is quite right, your brakes may be more of a limiting factor than any load that your Champion can tow! [B)]

    <h5>Mark
    '57 Transtar Deluxe
    Vancouver Island
    </h5>
    Mark Hayden
    '66 Commander

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    • #3
      I would venture that your pulling capacity will far exceed your stopping power. I would not want to put a trailer behind one, but if I did, I would limit the weight to 600 - 800 pounds.


      http://community.webshots.com/user/GuidoSalvage

      Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

      Comment


      • #4
        I looked in my Owner's, Body, Chassis, and Shop manuals and found no listing in the indexes for hitch or towing. From my childhood memories and driving it now, after having towed many trailers with my Toyota pickups, I think I would be willing to try it with 1000# on a single axle and see what it felt like. I say that having a standard transmission which I have more faith in in towing terms than with an automatic. My car and I grew up in the high Rockies of central Colorado and that car would 'pull' it's weight and cargo better than a lot of newer cars up there. oo, a thought just occured, go rent a van trailer from your favorite neighborhood trailer rental place and see how it feels empty, then maybe add some weight and learn. Yup, that's an idea. Beware bumper attached hitches and keep that in mind, maybe go with one welded to the chassis if you decide to go for it.

        '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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        • #5
          ps - I forgot the braking that Guido brought up. IMHO, if you decide to go for it, get really good electric brakes on that trailer!

          '50 Champion, 1 family owner

          Comment


          • #6
            I think the Champion brakes and the four bolt wheels are more of an issue. As Bob mentions, make sure the hitch has a solid connection to the chassis.


            http://community.webshots.com/user/GuidoSalvage

            Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

            Comment


            • #7
              I think it may be illegal to use "50 Champion" and "towing capacity" in the same sentence. [)]

              It would sure be a neat looking rig, however.

              Gary hit the nail on the head...stopping will be the issue, not going.




              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

              Comment


              • #8
                thanks gents.... I understand towing very well. Brakes are the most important thing..... I was thinking of the smallest, lightest teardrop.... now if I can convince my wife to sleep in a pup tent.....

                '50 Champion Starlight
                '71 Swiss 404 Unimog
                \1941 Buick Touring Sedan Twin Carb
                \'71 Swiss 404 Unimog

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well, here's a thought! If it would indeed "look cool" to tow some vintage trailer (as it happens, I have an unrestored "woody" utility trailer that was built in 1950 and sold locally thru Montgomery Wards) - and you could fit said trailer with electric brakes - you might just make everyday driving of your Champion easier by taking the trailer everywhere you went! Wouldn't matter if you had a load to haul or not - the extra braking of the trailer wheels would be an "upgrade" to the stock 1950 Champion brakes![:0][}][:I]

                  Miscreant Studebaker nut in California's central valley.

                  1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                  1960 Larkvertible V8
                  1958 Provincial wagon
                  1953 Commander coupe
                  1957 President two door

                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've been trying to figure this out with this setup:
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Guido View Post
                      I think the Champion brakes and the four bolt wheels are more of an issue. As Bob mentions, make sure the hitch has a solid connection to the chassis.


                      http://community.webshots.com/user/GuidoSalvage

                      Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.
                      Studebakers and Cockshutt tractors - your on my wavelength now! I got 8 Cockshutt tractors and 2 Studebakers - 20 deluxe, 35 L deluxe, 30, 40, 540, 550, 570 super, and a 1941 Cockshutt 70 as well as a 47 Champion 4dr and a 63 R2 Avanti! As you may know the Loewy agency styled the 500 series Cockshutt's.
                      Neil

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                      • #12
                        I'd be comfy with 10 or 1200# with brakes. The teardrop can probably be less than 1000 and would probably be pretty comfy even without brakes but much better with them. I'd want a dual master cylinder in the car and heavy duty shocks and possibly booster springs on back or a leveling hitch with frame mount hitch. It'd probly be easy to upgrade front brakes to commander drums or better, finned drums.
                        Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                        • #13
                          Our 1947 Champion, pretty much the same car mechanically as your 1950, very happily towed a soft-top tent trailer. I towed an 1,800-pound travel trailer with it on one trip, and absolutely would not do it again. The engine got 'way too hot for my liking, and braking was acceptable only because the trailer had an excellent surge brake. The trailer was an English design, specificially meant for towing with smaller cars.
                          Bill Jarvis

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                          • #14
                            We towed a 68 Apache tent trailer with a 51 Commander many miles with no trouble but I upgraded the brakes. If you have overdrive I would lock it out, that makes a big difference. It also makes a lot of difference if you are in hilly country , we pulled ours in PA. hills . You have to take easy.

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