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  • Brake Check

    I was out cruising at sunset with Barney last evening with all the windows down, listening to the V8 rumble I came to a stop light, and a gent pulled up to my right and said "Hey partner - you don't have any brake lights!"

    Well this came as a surprise, since I had the headlights on and knew all four corners were working. I pulled into a nearby park and braced the brake pedal down while I checked the rear end and - sure enough - dark lamps. Turns out that the connectors that slip onto the master cylinder switch had become a touch loose and were not making adequate connection, so I squeezed them tight, verified operation and went home. Today I tightened them a bit with a crimp tool and added some dielectric grease to the studs to make sure it doesn't happen again.

    So I'm sharing this just to remind everyone that the things you take for granted sometimes aren't living up to their end of the bargain. Give those brake lights a check now and then!

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

  • #2
    Excellent advice, Clark.
    Part of my job at work is to drive a school bus from time to time. One of the key parts of the pre-trip is doing a light check. I find myself doing some of the same pre-trip checks on my cars before I head out. I have actually caught taillights out.
    Thanks for sharing your story.
    Ed Sallia
    Dundee, OR

    Sol Lucet Omnibus

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    • #3
      I have been telling people for years that one light or another does not work on their vehicle. My general impression is that they either do not care, do not understand how easy the fix is, or do not understand the implication of maybe causing an accident.

      I have even offered to fix it for them, but that makes them suspicious somehow. What are they thinking?

      I told one neighbor across the street three times over a period of almost two years about the same brake light. Amazing!
      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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      • #4
        Clark, great advice and I am more than conscious about no or weak brake lights after having an Avanti, a 38 Packard, a Sunbeam Tiger, our current 63 Mini, and 3 Anglias...all with very dim little "glows", ha ! I always back the 55 into the garage and have a white wall my lights reflect off of, so the test is done leaving and entering !

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        • #5
          Another way to test is a store window with a parking lot in front at night. You can point either end of the car at the window and test the lights all by yourself.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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          • #6
            I have used the dielectric grease on many of the outside high hats that light up the property at home.
            Mark

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            • #7
              I bought a brand new 1977 Cordoba. The cruise control didn't turn off unless you hit the brake pedal hard. Numerous trips to the dealer to fix this shortcoming and they couldn't fix it. Then, in a darkened underground parking lot as I was backing up, I noticed the brake lights did not come on unless I really pushed the brake pedal.

              Turns out, the brake light switch shut off the cruise control.... back to the dealer, and they fixed it right away, but I had already driven it for three months... I wasn't impressed.

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              • #8
                When possible and stopped in traffic, I'll use the reflections off the car in front of me or behind me to see if my lights are working. Sometimes the angles are not quite right, or the other car is reflecting like a curvy fun-house mirror, but it usually gets the job done. Big trucks with lots of chrome are the best.
                Last edited by Mark L; 07-31-2019, 07:21 PM.
                Mark L

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                • #9
                  it's an insurance thing. These id10t's now think that if you hit them in the back they're gonna be rich.

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                  • #10
                    When fiddling with the brake switch connectors, just remember that these are always HOT. Please, don't ask me how I know...
                    Nice day to all.
                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      I can tell my 64s are working because when I step on the brakes I can see the amp needle move.

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                      • #12
                        You just took the words out of my mouth. That's how I test mine.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by christophe View Post
                          When fiddling with the brake switch connectors, just remember that these are always HOT. Please, don't ask me how I know...Nice day to all.
                          Yes you ARE correct, at least the one from the Fuse Panel (Power in), the other wire to the Turn Signal Switch, not so much, it only gets power when the switch closes.

                          A good test for a dead Stoplight Switch, or other issues, is; connect them together.
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                          SDC Member Since 1967

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                            Another way to test is a store window with a parking lot in front at night. You can point either end of the car at the window and test the lights all by yourself.
                            That is my preferred method for a quick check too. It doesn't even have to be dark outside in most cases.
                            "In the heart of Arkansas."
                            Searcy, Arkansas
                            1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                            1952 2R pickup

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                            • #15
                              Update: I hooked a multimeter to my brake switch leads and found that the pedal must be depressed to its limit in order to close the circuit. Obviously the switch needs replacing.

                              Since this is a Master Cylinder-mounted switch, do I have to drain the MC before replacing it? Do I need to bleed the system after I've replaced it?

                              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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