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  • Engine: Oil from Oil Filter Canister

    What would cause the oil to overflow the oil filter canister along the lip of the lid as well as the hold down screw? This is a 6 cyl champion with the oil dipstick tube next to the firewall (drivers side) and the oil canister draining into the base of the oil dipstick tube. I replaced the intake line but not the outlet. The outlet is clear but it seems not to be draining fast enough, or the inlet is pushing too much oil? This wasn't an issue last fall. I've been doing some work to the truck and this is the first time I've started it since the fall. Changed the oil and filter as well. Not sure what the issue might be. Thanks.

    The filter canister should drain completely when the engine is turned off should it not?

  • #2
    Your filter should come with a new gasket to seal the lid. If it wasn't included, or failed to seat properly...
    Brad Johnson,
    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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    • #3
      The canister has a fair amount of pressure when the engine is running. My truck is the first Studebaker I have owned with that type and I found out the lid has to be a lot tighter that I thought was enough. Of course, the gasket must be in place properly.
      "In the heart of Arkansas."
      Searcy, Arkansas
      1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
      1952 2R pickup

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      • #4
        Yes, the rubber gasket was in place for the lid although I did note the smaller one on top of the filter was not in place. I checked the torque chart and the lid should be at 27-33lb-ft so I've done that. I will restart and see what happens.

        On a similar note, how does the oil get to what i assume is the drain pipe at the very bottom of the filter canister? There is another threaded hole on the curved part of the bottom but that just has a plug in it (I've seen the same on other trucks). The drain pipe screws into the very centre of the bottom and that goes into the central shaft that holds the filter in place.. The only other access is at the very top where the screw goes to hold the lid in place. How does the oil get from the canister into the drain pipe? If it doesn't what is the point of it and how does the oil circulate back to the engine?

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        • #5
          There was (or should have been) a restriction (about .045") in the input line. It could have been in the hose itself, or in a brass fitting at one end or the other of the input line. Look at the parts you removed and see it it's there.

          See post #12 and those following here:
          Last edited by Skip Lackie; 06-17-2019, 01:08 PM.
          Skip Lackie

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          • #6
            Originally posted by my2R5 View Post
            How does the oil get from the canister into the drain pipe? If it doesn't what is the point of it and how does the oil circulate back to the engine?
            There is a small hole in the vertical pipe that allows filtered oil to flow into the pipe and out the bottom return feed to the engine. I believe there is only one, at least that's all I could find on mine. Check to see if that is open, I assume if not it could over pressurize the canister and lead to leaks.
            3H-C5 "The Blue Goose"

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            • #7
              Contrary to what LOOKS like it should be the Oil INLET the Center Fitting, is the OUTPUT!

              The Input is on the side of the case, it sounds like your restrictor fitting is on the return side instead of the Input causing excess pressure buildup and leakage!

              The Later Fram F3 and F4 Filter Units have an extra "Plug" on the bottom, it is the Canister Oil Drain. Some of those Type also have a large spinner wingnut to hold the Lid instead of the bolt.
              Click image for larger version

Name:	52 Champion Starlight Red6.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	97.0 KB
ID:	1728435 Here is the Oil Pressure Line (Filter Input) coming from the Right, (Pressure side) of the block to the SIDE of the Oil Filter Case.

              Most of these Filters were DEALER Installed, so the age (year) and type of Fram Kit and the Orange Color is what was "on the shelf at the time" and different than the Factory Installed correct year Black ones.

              (Please ignore the Wrong Color Air Cleaner on this eBay Car Pic.)
              Last edited by StudeRich; 06-17-2019, 02:50 PM.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #8
                Thanks for the comments. It sounds like I am missing the restrictor fitting on the inlet. Unfortunately I replaced this line some time ago and no longer have the original. The line looked like regular 3/16 brake line with brake line fitting so that is what I used. Obviously much too large a diameter at the inlet. Does anyone know what it should look like or have a picture?

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                • #9
                  Fram, Delco, etc made oil filter kits for nearly every make of automobile over many years. The systems evolved, though the principles remained the same. At any given time, the can was the same, but the mounting brackets, hoses, etc were customized to fit a particular engine. Some had the restrictor built into the end of the input hose, but many others just used a brass fitting with a restrictor hole. Given the passage of time, unless you score a new filter kit for your engine, you are probably not gonna find the "correct" OEM input hose for your truck. It might be easier to find either a straight or L-shaped restrictor fitting and install it on the input line. I have had to do that on both my 3R6 and a 37 LaSalle. NAPA supposedly carried them, but I was unable to find one at a local NAPA last year. Or you can make one as described on the other ref'd thread.
                  Skip Lackie

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                  • #10
                    Solder the brass inlet fitting shut. Drill a .062 hole through the solder. The system works the same a filtering a swimming pool--it doesn't happen all at once, but it all gets done, and except when there is some sort of unusual event it more than keeps up with with gradual addition of dirt from running.

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                    • #11
                      Thanks all for the suggestions. I like the idea of plugging it completely and then drilling the hole size you want. I usually keep anything I remove until I have replaced it so now I need to keep it until I have the replacement operational.

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                      • #12
                        Rich, on my 51 Landcruiser the line comes from the driver’s side of the block. I thought either side would be the same pressure.

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                        • #13
                          On the V8, (not discussed here) I think you will find it is and/or definitely SHOULD be, on the Front End of the Drivers side Cylinder Head.
                          Both the Front and Rear ends of the Heads have the partially "End of the line" volume and pressure and should work, but the Oil Pressure Gauge Line or Sender is on the Passenger side Head so the logical place is where the Factory and Dealers put it, at the very END of the line.
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                          SDC Member Since 1967

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                          • #14
                            My bad, didn’t realize post 7 was a 6cyl. Duh!

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