Brakes: Proper Tools

[airmanjwt]

What are the proper tools for removing the rear brake drums off a 62 GT Hawk. Thanks, JTaylor

[thunderations]

Correct wheel puller and BA hammer.

[jclary]

This is the type I use. I have used one like this for over 54 years to pull hub/drum assemblies from tapered axle vehicles. I use Oetiker brand. Not sure if the brand is still active (corporate buyouts & consolidations?), but similar tools are still offered.

EDIT: Earlier today, I thought I had posted a picture of this puller, but it was brought to my attention that the pic did not post. So, with this edit is a second attempt to post the picture. Hopefully, it will be seen below. Let me know if it don't work.

[Greenstude]

The type of puller John has pictured above is the only one to use. Any puller which pulls on the rim of the brake drum is 100% GUARANTEED to destroy the drum.

Before using the correct puller, remove the crown nut from the axle and install it backwards (flat side out). Turn the nut on the axle until it is not quite flush with the end of the axle. You want the puller shaft pushing only on the nut, NOT on the end of the axle. This prevents the puller from mushrooming the end of the axle.

[fh4ever]

home made...but worked fine. As mentioned above, don't pull on the rim of the drum!. On my first try, I got the center-bolt so tight that I was afraid the rotating bolt would mash either the end of the axle threads or the screw itself (even with nut on as described above). I tried tapping with hammer with no success. So on the second attempt, I took up the slack with the center bolt and used the lug nuts to do the pulling (tightening equal amounts in a staggard pattern). Drum popped right off without without much effort and no hammering required! You might can rent the Oetiker tool or something similar?

[ColoradoHawk]

You can also buy, or rent the correct puller, much like the one in fh4ever post above from studebakerparts.com. Link is here: https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...age=tools.html

[my2R5]

I purchased and used the same puller as John shows in his post above. I was also given this link to an article on pulling the drums off as I was in the same position earlier this year. http://www.gudim.com//StudebakerRear...structions.pdf

As mentioned turn the nut around as it will prevent the end from mushrooming as well as keeping the drum from flying off once it breaks loose. When you whack the end of the puller each time with the BA hammer (I used a small sledge and gave it a good whack) you will hear a different ring when it finally lets loose. I would tighten the puller, give it two good whacks, tighten it a bit more, two more whacks, tighten, etc until by the 3rd or 4th time it would break loose.

[Steve Winzar]

Hi all- I understand the need to 'Spring' the hub with a bit of an shock/impact. But don't forget you have a Ball bearing behind there and you can damage it. That impact energy is concentrated over the small surface area over the balls within the race. You ought not overdo it.
Steve

[StudeRich]

Well thank goodness Studebaker NEVER used cheap "Ball" Bearings for much, certainly not Wheel Bearings!

The Tapered Roller Bearings are a LOT tougher.