My 289 in my 64 Hawk is idling way too high. I can't get it down to 600 rpm. It starts right up, revs up high like it's got lots of horsepower. But put it in drive, and it has some misfire and slow acceleration like something is holding it back. I've double checked everything, timing, dwell, firing order and idle adjustment screws. I can't find any vacuum leaks either. I've had many Stude V8s over the years and they all ran great. But this one is stubborn! It's also a fresh rebuild with all new internal parts. Valves set to .026 cold. God help me!
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Sounds like the Distributor, is it the stock Presto-crap? The Centrifugal Advance Weights are really the only issue with these and ARE fixable with Brass Bushed Weights if the small shafts they fit onto are not toast.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967 -
Fortunately, when repairing a well used Prestolite distributor that requires using the new improved bronze bushed sintered iron advance weights, it seems like 99% of the wear occurs on the pivot point on the weights, and thus the pivot shaft diameter is very usable as it. It seems a few bad mouth these Prestolite distributors, but after replacing the worn advance weights they perform very well.Originally posted by StudeRich View PostComment
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I actually put in 60 lark window distributer. I should have mentioned that. Any known issues with them?Comment
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I have a new vacuum advance on the Delco window distributor too. And the idle stop screws are all the way out on the linkage. (Stromberg 2 barrel)Comment
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Is the vacuum advance unit the proper one for a Studebaker window Delco? If you put on a typical Chevrolet application unit it will not be correctly programmed for the Studebaker. But I don’t think that is necessarily your problem. I’d relook at your carburetor.Comment
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Sounds to me like a vacuum leak. You didn't say if the carb was rebuilt or not. However,this could be a California equipped Stromberg . Look on the very left rear of the carb body towards the top. There might be a rubber block off cap that's cracked and sucking in air. I've had this happen to me. Motor acted just as you've described. Replaced it and presto, problem solved. Hope this helps.Comment
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The carb was professionally rebuilt by a shop here in Las Vegas. My car is a Vegas car that was sold here new. An Air Force Major drove it back and forth to the Nevada test site until he passed. Then the car sat in the desert for 30 years. I have a early four barrel manifold sitting in my shop. If I can find an AFB and an (adapter plate) I'll get rid of the Stromberg. I'll look for the cap you described, but I don't think it has it.Comment
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Make sure the linkage between the bell crank and carb is coming back to idle. bad trans mounts will affect this. try using a vacuum gauge to monitor idle. readjust valves. Luck DoofusComment
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I just assembled a 259 and I checked the intake manifold for straight-flat and it was warped .005 - .010, had it machined and now no leaks. All the carb adjustments and new gaskets would not solve the problem. I squirted a little water along the fittings and there was a slight pitch difference, now it runs perfect and will idle right down to almost nothing.Comment
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If the car has power brakes, make certain that hose to the brake booster is good, and that the booster itself is not causing a major vacuum leak. It's pretty easy to disconnect the line at the manifold and cap off the nipple temporarily to eliminate that as a possible leak.Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta BadlandsComment
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Sounds like vacuum and/ or timing issue. Are you sure it is timed correctly. Has anyone had the vibration dampner off and did it go back on correctly? Plug the pb vac hose. It could suck air thro Hydrovac. Is the throttle shaft loose in the carb base; can act like that if the shaft is badly worn. Of course it can be carb base gasket or intake manifold gasket. Don't go AFB. Edelbrock carbs are great!Comment
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