Electrical: 63 Lark Voltage Regulator Wire Keeps Shorting.

[Joe V]

Hi,
The wire from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch was fried when I was trouble shooting another issue. I replaced it with a new heavy jacket wire and terminal ends, I think it was rubbing against the body so I slid some rubber hose onto a body seam that’s next to the ignition switch. I also re-taped the wire loom going through the fire wall so it wouldn’t short.

A couple weeks later the wire started smoking again. If it’s not rubbing on the body would the Switch or Voltage Regulator cause it to short?

I’m considering putting a fuse on it after I find the culprit.
Btw, the VR is a new electronic one disguised as original by using the stock metal type housing and the ignition switch is new from a popular vendor.

Thanks

[Bud]

I'm thinking there is a problem with the voltage regulator or field lead in the alternator which is shorting to ground occasionally causing a high current draw overheating the wire. I don't believe the ignition switch is the problem and adding a fuse in series with the lead from the ignition switch is a Band Aid at best. If the regulator is operating correctly, an 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch is good as the current draw from a good regulator is only a couple of amps. If I remember correctly, the original mechanical regulators have a fuse wire built in to protect the wiring in case of a short in the regulator or field in the alternator. Bud

[bensherb]

I agree, the fault must be in the regulator.

[Joe V]

I'm going to reinstall the original voltage regulator to see if that does the trick.

[altair]

I had a 63 Lark V8 that I parted out and when I removed the wiring harness in the middle of the harness was a completely burned wire its entire length, I don't know where it came from nor where it went to, but it was completely burned. It must have caused some trouble for the PO.

[Joe V]

16 months have passed With the electronic voltage regulator and the wire has not smoked, however the amp gauge started bouncing all over the place again and the the headlights started pulsating, so last month I bought another electronic voltage regulator and installed it, amp gauge is now
steady.
So today I go to start it and it won’t turn over, nothing, dead. I check the battery it’s fully charged, checked the connections - all
tight. Voltage check with ignition on Start: 6v to green wire, 12v to regulator, No Volts to starter cable.
i look under the dash....the voltage regulator wire is fried again!

So now I’m getting no power to the starter and too much power at the ignition switch. Please help! S. O. S.

[Joe V]

I decided to pull the civic alternator out, pull the electronic voltage regulator out, reinstall my original generator and buy a Studebaker voltage regulator that matches the generator.

[StudeRich]

Your Problem is the Solenoid!
The "I" terminal and Green Wire to the Coil joined to the Pink Resistance wire at the Coil SHOULD be getting 12 Volts when the Ign. Sw. is HELD to "Start", also the Starter Terminal and Cable, so there is no Power coming out of the Solenoid.

The melted Reg. wire is likely a different issue, that is or WAS probably a shorted Alternator, but you won't know now.

"Original Generator"? A '63 Lark had a Prestolite Alternator.
Now you will have to run all new wires for the Armature and Field of the Gen. and a New 8 or 10 Ga. wire from the Regulator to the Ammeter.

[Ross]

I feel your pain. I had the regulator wire fry as a result of a fault in the regulator. Normally the thing should only draw a couple of amps but somehow here in the 21st century they fail by shorting that input to ground. I installed a fuse to prevent reoccurrence.

[Joe V]

It wasn’t the solenoid. I tested it and it was fine. I took the ignition switch out and noticed the battery terminal came loose. So I added a lock washer and retightened it.
After looking at the wiring diagram I decided to run an extra ground wire from the voltage regulator directly to the battery and a ground wire from the alternator directly to the battery. I also added a ground wire from the engine to the body. Ground Overkill!

i took my original alternator to a local rebuilder who rebuilt my starter. He tested it and told me it put out 50amps. Apparently it’s an Avanti alternator, it was probably installed since it’s a ‘63 and had AC? Anyway it’s noisy so he’s going to press on a new bearing, he also told me if one is not careful the housing section below the pulley can break.